Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

XD that’s a good one.
[very mild spoilers]
Part of the reference comes from a scene in the first book, where one of the main characters manages to pull of a daring heist (well, maybe that’s a bit of an exaggeration XD) in a beat-up old ice-cream van with a giant Barney painted on it, and thus became known forevermore as the Barney guy.

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if I’m running 2 x esc’s (in my case 2x neobox v4) will I need 2 of these anti sparks, or just 1?

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Well just one, but the real winner is don’t use that at all, use this

to make this

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cheers :+1:

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For the connector alone, it should be instant with flux. For the thick cable, depends on the soldering iron. I have a shitty one and have to put it around “400°c” to realistically have solder flow in 10 seconds, and it freezes again for another good 10 seconds when it meets the xt connector

@brendan

[Serious] How To Solder-The Complete Tutorial From A>Z

I didn’t spen hours on this for nothing :grin:

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Tin:


Solder:

Fill gaps:

If it doesn’t melt use higher temperature

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How smart would it be to put a metal tube around the trampa barrels to reduce the amount they can flex (they are to soft) That way they can only flex as much as they have room within the tube.

Imagine it as a cock ring of sorts.

130508__01

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How are you planning on stopping the tube from moving around on the barrel?

I don’t think it’s going to work. If so, you might have poor acceleration

94mm is pretty long. Will you be able to fit 2 on the same hangar?

If the mamba can handle the current, you’ll still most likely burn your motors I think trying to get the torque.

The difference between an 8S * 800KV is pretty big compared to 10S/12S * 170KV/190KV. You’re going to need a lot of current.

What might be a better option is if you sell your current gear and get more appropriate to what you want.

Remember, Moe goes for speed rather than distance. With that setup, I can’t imagine being able to get as far as a traditional setup

Why duplicate his setup if you’re not looking to go fast?

A quick google search also shows me this is used for aquatic applications where water cooling happens. You can use if but 1)if you don’t burn it on the initial run, 2) you’ll probably run into thermal issues

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haven’t figured that out fully. Maybe a small bolt going through the barrel and the tube. That obviously reduces the structural integrity

i have very noob question: the flipsky one has an on/off button, how would i add this functionaility to the XT90S loop key?

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The loopkey is the on off button. You plug in to turn on and take out to turn off

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Wooow. The Mini remote has a pretty dangerous way of telling me the battery life is short by pulling the throttle back in a 5 seconds interval.

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I think you should consider a lipo / liion upgrade for it ^^

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That wouldn’t solve the low battery issue I think he’s referring to

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I planned that but didn’t bother ordering parts yet. Don’t get me wrong, the battery life is great. I just threw 2 random battery inside that didn’t have much juice to begin with. I have a replacement battery with me but forgot the screwdriver.

I’m just suprised on how horrible the low battery communication is

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Involve some Battery meter thing of course :slight_smile:

Only time I experienced that, it’s because the 3 wire PWM cable going from the receiver to the ESC was smashed (between the ESC and enclosure which were bolted together) and the signal wire was almost completely broken.

That’s not the low battery behaviour — UNLESS you didn’t set the failsafe, then it could be. If you turn the board upside down while on, then turn off the remote, do the wheels stop turning?

How could i not set up the failsafe with your Guide in existence? Yes, once the remote turns off the throttle goes to the center position = no throttle.

Wires are fine. I assumed it’s the low power warning because every time the remote automatically released the throttle the RED power led blinked once

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