This is going to be largely subjective to answer since it depends on what you consider good and bad things. Some people can stomach any price and waiting for a quality part, some people want easier to replace individual pieces others want more integration, it really depends on what you want in terms of what is best.
Do you care about being able to configure it yourself?
How important is price?
How important is immediate availability?
Would you rather replace a second ESC or have everything built in one?
Are you looking just at different versions of VESC or across all ESCs (do you know the difference?)
What are the power requirements?
Do you want to run FOC mode (again do you know what this is does it matter to you)?
Configuration: I guess Iād like to have the option
Price: I donāt mind paying up for something good.
Immediate product: I wonāt mind a little wait 1-3months max but not anything more I reckon.
āAs for replace second esc or all in oneāā¦ im not too sure I understand this question
And version of esc, power requirements and foc modeā¦ I do not know this stuff.
Sorry bit half assed question on my end asking for a list of esc without really knowing what I want.
All good no one knows this stuff up front just wasnāt sure how much youād dug in already.
Regarding getting a two in one vs individual ESCs there are boards that directly support dual motors from one PCB, so thereās one battery connection into the ESC and 6 phase wires for hooking up two motors. Other option is you have two individual ESC each with power going into them from battery (parallel connection to battery from ESCs) and then each drives one motor. Advantage with two separate is if one dies it doesnāt mean replace the whole thing and can run on one motor while waiting on replacement ESC, disadvantage is more complexity in wiring and configuration of two things instead of one.
For power requirements itās a really hard thing to know ahead of time, it depends on weight, location (hills), ride style, etc. but can find data here or just searching around for metr.at logs of other similar riders in similar locations. Iām a small guy on flat land riding urethane with one motor so power requirements are minimal: https://metr.at/r/6EGoI https://calc.esk8.news/#/0 <-- can help get some idea
also an average rider will use around 10-12Wh of battery capacity per kilometer so if you are heavier than average expect higher draw, if you are average or lighter then can expect less draw, this also depends largely on how hard you accelerate and if you are riding up hill or not.
FOC mode is an option on VESCs but on some versions of VESC is known to cause the board to blow out so not advisable. It basically makes the motors run quieter and a bit smoother but less top end speed.
Edit thought I mentioned it but just read my post and forgot the ecalc linked at the top of the forum here can help with figuring out your numbers, let us know if something there doesnāt make sense or you canāt find the numbers.
Anyone know how to tighten the cans on TB 6355 motors? I think it has something to do with the circlip but Iād like to hear from someone experienced before messing with it, thanks.
I think I might have a broken magnet, Iāve never opened one of these up beforeā¦Do I need to disconnect the motor from the vesc to open it up? I only ask because it would be a b*tch to remove all the wire guards from the phase wires to disconnect them, would rather avoid this if possible. Also how do I remove the c-clip?
They donāt look broken, but theyāve definitely been rubbing a bit. How tight of a fit was the shaft in the can?
Replacing the stock set screws with some class 12.9 ones can help, and loctite 680 as well.
I noticed in your earlier video that the can seemed a bit wobbly, and guessing by all the marks on the outside itās been hitting stuff pretty constantly, and so it may have basically wobbled out the shaft hole in the back of the can. Iād try using some shims or something to make sure the can is perfectly centered on the stator/shaft, replacing the screws with class 12.9 cup-point setscrews and then adding some loctite 680 and letting it set up overnight. If thatās the problem then that should fix it, but it may not be a permanent solution - loctite is only so strong. You may end up having to get a fresh can or maybe a new motor.
Is there a magic way to get alienpowersystems to answer emails? Its been over a week with no response on why my order placed on the 9th of july is still āprocessingā they claimed in the last email that all July orders were being packaged and shipped a week ago.
Is their tracker just bad?
The order was simple, just 2 motors that were in stock. Anyone know what might be wrong? I want to give APS the benefit of the doubt here, but Iām getting a tad bit worried
I think the hole is wobbled out enough that even repairing/replacing the setscrews is at best a temporary fix. The shaft should be a press fit in the can - thatās what provides the registration and rigidity. The screws are just there to prevent rotation or axial movement. Without that registering fit, even if he fills the gap with a retaining compound, itāll never be as rigid as before.
Iād get a brand new can and a new shaft (They most likely come assembled) and be done with it.
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