Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

You could wire the meter before the loopkey and use the switch on the meter to turn it off and on.

If it’s bypassed around the BMS, then accidentally leaving it on could destroy your battery…

So if you do that, put it on the BMS discharge lead (P-) even if your ESC comes right off the battery (B-)

You mean it could discharge the battery?

Yeah you don’t want always-on stuff hooked to B-

P- is much safer. You can still run your ESC and loopkey from B- though.

I actually like your remote meter idea above all else even though that meter would take ages to discharge a battery in the event you forgot about it. I have one hooked to my test pack and very rarely switch it off and that piece of shit is an lg chinesium. Been holding at 50% for at least 3 months.

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Buying from a fibreglass supplier rather than a typical hardware or specialist store can be a lot cheaper.

But there is a lot to learn and it is quite labour intensive… I made a thread here, I’m not finished yet

Edit: also some good stuff here

@glyphiks Thing with suppliers that kills me as always is shipping

Edit: I’ve been reading your thread all day

True, but definitely worth shopping around, making a few phone calls to local businesses that use fibreglass.

Yeah that’s pretty much plan c :slight_smile:
Planning on buying small quantities of joint tape, car repair fiberglass patches and epoxy tomorrow and see if its doable and if I like the process of it enough to invest

Make sure you get epoxy, not the polyester resin that’s sometimes used for boats etc. That stuff is super nasty and hard to work with compared to epoxy.

One way to tell if the containers don’t say, is epoxy is usually a 1:1, 2:1, 5:1 etc ratio of part A and B. The polyester is like 99% resin and ten drops of hardener. So if you see one big container and a tiny squeeze tube, don’t buy that, it’s horrible.

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Oh…bummer that’s what I had in mind looked like

Edit: I think the name was bondo glass ?

Edit#2: OMFG…just looked at prices online for 2 part epoxies…think science might wait a bit till I buy the replacement components of my build

It’s still possible to use polyester, but it’s pretty nasty - it smells awful, it eats through nitrile and latex gloves, and it’s hard to mix consistently - Too much hardener and it will set up in your mixing container, too little and it’ll stay gummy and sticky forever. It’s also really temperature sensitive - If you work somewhere hot, it will set up a LOT faster than if you are somewhere cold. I learned this all the hard way, so you don’t have to! :smiley:

Yeah, epoxy is significantly more expensive than polyester - That’s one of the reasons people suffer through that horrid stuff.

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I guess @eBoosted enclosures are so steep of a price no more…God dammit

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Around what circumference are the 3 phase wires and the sensor wire that comes from the motor?

All together, or each one?

All together, for sheathing purposes

You can probably fit them in a 1cm diameter circle if they are 12AWG

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Perfect timing.

1/2" cable braid worked perfectly for me. Don’t mind that it’s alextech haha not sure if you’re familiar with that scheme. The waterproof cable junction is a pg21 gland just FYI and BARELY fit them both.

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I appreciate the concise measurements. And ofcourse, how could anyone forget the alextech situation. The reason i was asking is because i was looking at AN-8 hose-ing for the wires. Way overkill, but proper waterproof with a gland and would provide strain relief + protection on the wires in the case they were snagged

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Never heard of it but sounds badass. Got a link?

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