Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

thanks. what battery config of yours was he referring to? or perhaps all batteries are capable of running at 100Aā€¦?

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do you use a 50A ESC with both of these batteries?

sorry no, one at a time :slight_smile: shouldā€™ve clarified

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Like @olsyke mentioned, a flexy deck isnā€™t ideal for higher speeds but works fine for lower range, commuter boards. Boosted uses a split enclosure because their decks are so flexy but they also route the wires nicely through the deck so itā€™s not visible.

Personally I would get a more solid deck and enclosure. Those are the bones of your board and are always my starting point for builds.

Just search eBay, amazon, etc for ā€œvolt meter, battery, indicator, display, lcdā€ whatever fits your needs. If youā€™re going 10s and lithium ion cells are 4.2v fully charged, any volt meter rated above 42v is fine. Iā€™d include the search term ā€œ50vā€

sorry, yeah, thatsā€™ what i meant. that you have 2 50A ESCā€™s that work in seperate builds with those batteries

here i started my questions about vesc settings, below you will find all the info and answers i got, also my specs are there - this is a good read for you i think

also maybe try this thread for more answers

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thanks, will have a look

My 2x 4.12 vescs are in 1 build. 1 for each motor.

I ride with my 10s4p until itā€™s dead and swap it to the 12s1p i have in my backpack.

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With the 1850 Watt motor and the pulley system, I donā€™t think Iā€™ll hit 40kmh right?
Iā€™m not planning on hitting topspeeds, but I get your point about the solid baseā€¦

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esk8 calculator

enter your stats here and check it outā€¦

oops and i also allways forget there is a built-in one in the forum

Screen Shot 2020-04-08 at 17.17.26

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also look at this. Thats a screenshot from just a sec ago.

I was going 43km/h on my mtb and all it took were
24 Amps from my battery (battery is able to push 80 amps)

My motors only needed about 20Amps each to hold that speed.
Keep in mind that getting there is more taxing but after that it is really efficient. No where near the limits.
I weigh about 100kg with 8kg on my back.

I guess I wonā€™t find the motor efficiency etcā€¦ But thatā€™s okay
Itā€™ll be fine I guess

Thanks for the inspiration!

Interested in reviews of the makerx dual

If anyone has anything to Say please tell me

I am wanting to use it with 30amps a side @12s without pushing it to hard

I need something reliable though

The types of motors we use are generally 90% efficient so just leave that.

Search for battery indicator on this forum:

so the ESC iā€™m getting is the Neobox V4, which is a clone of the Focbox Unity, except itā€™s not a dual system, but 2 seperate ones, amounting to 160A continuous in totalā€¦so if im running a battery that can output 100A, then I can use all of that power and just split it over the 2 neoboxs at 50A eachā€¦just thinking out loud here. thanks for the help

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Thank you so much


I think 30kmh would be a good speed for me - not too fast but not boring neither. My weight is around 60kg, the gear ratio is 3:1 so 20 Teeth for the Motor and 60 for the wheel. Motor Power is 1850 Watt
Is that fine for acceleration? :slight_smile:

why is it acceptable for the neobox to have the phase leads soldered on? I though soldering components together on an esk8 was a bad idea because vibrations jiggle things loose - which is why people spot-weld battery packs rather than solder them. i guess itā€™s not an issue because no-one seems bothered, but i was wondering why this isā€¦?

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Most motor controllers are made this way.

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most ā€˜goodā€™ controllers? or is it more budget options that you find soldering on controllers?

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Thereā€™s really no better way, your wires have to be soldered at some point.
As long as the joint is good it wonā€™t shake loose.

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