Hey guys, just ordered a bigben enclosure and a nice deck.
Whats your take?
wood screws and battery to enclosure?
Or threaded inserts and velcro to deck?
Oh yeh you guys wrote about it thank you very much guys!
But on a noob note any sources for EU threaded inserts and possibly green or black bolts?
(ie recommendations so I donât buy something under or overrated)
First, thereâs no such thing as a flipsky 4.12 dual, only a single. The earliest dual they have is the 4.20 dual, of which there are two versions. Both are far better than the original 4.x reference design in terms of thermal performance due to the use of different FET packages and an aluminum heat spreader, but that heat spreader is only gonna do so much covered in tape. Iâd recommend only taping the bare minimum for electrical isolation, avoiding restriction of airflow.
Second, having all your electronics (especially the battery) supported by the enclosure is a recipe for trouble unless the enclosure is purposely overbuilt to handle that stress. Itâs much better to stick everything to the deck, and have the enclosure simply be a cosmetic dust cover, supporting itself only. Otherwise the vibration and shock of riding is extremely punishing on the enclosure mounts.
Line up the enclosure visually. Make sure itâs where you want it or you just lost from step one.
Clamp it gently but solidly in place so it doesnât slide. Do not let it slide, I repeat.
Tape the deck around the outside edge of the enclosure to give you an outline of the enclosure on the deck. Painters tape or masking tape work great. This helps with alignment just in case you skipped over that whole âdonât let it slipâ part. This is also when I add any weather stripping foam, rubber, butyl gasket, etc by tracing the edge of the tape.
Mark on your enclosure where you want your bolts to be. Try and keep it in the middle of the flat part of the enclosure flange, not too close or far from the edge. A chalk line helps a lot for making a clean straight line but a straight edge or yard/meter stick works fine too.
Drill tiny pilot holes through each of your marks. Use a drill bit thatâs much smaller than the bolt going there and donât drill it very deep. The idea is just to transfer the marks from the enclosure to the deck.
You can remove your enclosure now and should have tiny shallow holes where your inserts will go.
Pick up a drill bit that is the same size (or barely smaller) as the shank (not threaded part) of your insert if they donât recommend a size.
Figure out how deep the hole for the insert needs to be without punching through your deck.
Insert all your threaded inserts. I like using the hex head ones and a drill to make sure they go in quick and donât over or under torque. I recommend using a bit of epoxy on the outside of the threads before inserting them. Let them fully dry for 24hrs at least before bolting the enclosure on.
You might have to widen the enclosure holes with a larger drill bit so your bolts can go through but youâll already have the pilot hole there to guide you.
Sadly I tried mounting on the board at first but it just wasnât happening due to the deep concave of the board. Luckily the enclosure is tight and the battery fills it completely, and the battery is forced against the crest of the deck concave when enclosure is on. Only dead space is between the ESC and the BMS, and thatâs the area Iâm scared about with vibrations.
Sounds good on trying to keep the taping to a minimum, its gonna take some playing around to get it right. I definitely plan to post a sanity check pic before I take this on the road, thanks so much for your help!
I ended up finding out that my hall sensor wires were too short so now I have extensions on the way from amazonâŚ
I had a lot of trouble getting the hole size right and all that. It really helped that I perfected it on a piece of scrap wood first. My tests showed me that I also had to use JB weld epoxy on the inserts to prevent them from backing out.
Also this drill collar worked good for getting the depth right
How do you get a circlip back onto the motor shaft?
I had a missing one, so I ordered a few from Accu, but hey are so strong, I canât open them without breaking them, shooting off two trajectiles in adjacent directions.
Might it be possible to get a new circlip from @torqueboards? Itâs for a TB 6374 motor.
@PrivacyDoctor - You should be able to use any 7mm diameter cir-clip also. Usually harbor freight has a wide assortment of them. Mcmaster works too. We have some also. You can email us.
Thank you, Iâll check there! Might it also be possible to get the original bearing? (Previous owner ran it without circlip for a while, and it sounds damaged now)
VESC SETTINGS FOR A NOOP? (SEARCH WASNT HELPFULL) [10s4p - dual maytech 6374 170kv - dual maytech superfoc 50A]
Hey guys, Im on my first build as some of you may have noticed I have everything running, but want to walk through my settings and optimize things, so I wonât blow things.
Some pictures to tackle any âNOOP mistakesâ
My first concern is: It looks like my throttle gives not many steps between full speed and not moving.