Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Hey guys, just ordered a bigben enclosure and a nice deck.

Whats your take?
wood screws and battery to enclosure?

Or threaded inserts and velcro to deck?
Oh yeh you guys wrote about it thank you very much guys!

But on a noob note any sources for EU threaded inserts and possibly green or black bolts?
(ie recommendations so I don’t buy something under or overrated)

First, there’s no such thing as a flipsky 4.12 dual, only a single. The earliest dual they have is the 4.20 dual, of which there are two versions. Both are far better than the original 4.x reference design in terms of thermal performance due to the use of different FET packages and an aluminum heat spreader, but that heat spreader is only gonna do so much covered in tape. I’d recommend only taping the bare minimum for electrical isolation, avoiding restriction of airflow.

Second, having all your electronics (especially the battery) supported by the enclosure is a recipe for trouble unless the enclosure is purposely overbuilt to handle that stress. It’s much better to stick everything to the deck, and have the enclosure simply be a cosmetic dust cover, supporting itself only. Otherwise the vibration and shock of riding is extremely punishing on the enclosure mounts.

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Threaded inserts and velcro to deck. I had to stand on my hummie deck to get the battery to pry off.

More info on mounting in my build thread

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I’m exited thank you!

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So you place masking tape on the deck,
line up the enclosure and drill a hole through the enclosure and into the deck for a plot hole.

you then remove the enclosure, insert the inserts and then place weather strip along the flange area.
(loctiteing lightly when ready) correct?

also I suck would It be dumb to cheap out with these guys?


They’re 8mm but m5 I think you used m4

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My process:

  1. Line up the enclosure visually. Make sure it’s where you want it or you just lost from step one.
  2. Clamp it gently but solidly in place so it doesn’t slide. Do not let it slide, I repeat.
  3. Tape the deck around the outside edge of the enclosure to give you an outline of the enclosure on the deck. Painters tape or masking tape work great. This helps with alignment just in case you skipped over that whole “don’t let it slip” part. This is also when I add any weather stripping foam, rubber, butyl gasket, etc by tracing the edge of the tape.
  4. Mark on your enclosure where you want your bolts to be. Try and keep it in the middle of the flat part of the enclosure flange, not too close or far from the edge. A chalk line helps a lot for making a clean straight line but a straight edge or yard/meter stick works fine too.
  5. Drill tiny pilot holes through each of your marks. Use a drill bit that’s much smaller than the bolt going there and don’t drill it very deep. The idea is just to transfer the marks from the enclosure to the deck.
  6. You can remove your enclosure now and should have tiny shallow holes where your inserts will go.
  7. Pick up a drill bit that is the same size (or barely smaller) as the shank (not threaded part) of your insert if they don’t recommend a size.
  8. Figure out how deep the hole for the insert needs to be without punching through your deck.

    I use a socket wrench as a drill stop.
  9. Insert all your threaded inserts. I like using the hex head ones and a drill to make sure they go in quick and don’t over or under torque. I recommend using a bit of epoxy on the outside of the threads before inserting them. Let them fully dry for 24hrs at least before bolting the enclosure on.

  1. You might have to widen the enclosure holes with a larger drill bit so your bolts can go through but you’ll already have the pilot hole there to guide you.
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Wow man such a beautiful write up This really means much to me
you’re saving my deck and enclosure.

I’ll read this another 5 times go sleep wake up and then another 5
Thanks!!!

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Sadly I tried mounting on the board at first but it just wasn’t happening due to the deep concave of the board. Luckily the enclosure is tight and the battery fills it completely, and the battery is forced against the crest of the deck concave when enclosure is on. Only dead space is between the ESC and the BMS, and that’s the area I’m scared about with vibrations.

Sounds good on trying to keep the taping to a minimum, its gonna take some playing around to get it right. I definitely plan to post a sanity check pic before I take this on the road, thanks so much for your help!

I ended up finding out that my hall sensor wires were too short so now I have extensions on the way from amazon…

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I had a hell of a time with my build getting threaded inserts right, I recommend getting a complete kit like

https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Threaded-Inserts-Installation/dp/B015CAPI54/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ez+lok&qid=1584751169&sr=8-5

I had a lot of trouble getting the hole size right and all that. It really helped that I perfected it on a piece of scrap wood first. My tests showed me that I also had to use JB weld epoxy on the inserts to prevent them from backing out.

Also this drill collar worked good for getting the depth right

https://www.amazon.com/Drixet-Drill-Stop-Bit-Collar/dp/B073VS72R3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=drill+collar&qid=1584751430&sr=8-3

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I do not recommend the EZlock kit! It is but frustration.
Rather use a screw to screw it in.

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How do you get a circlip back onto the motor shaft?
I had a missing one, so I ordered a few from Accu, but hey are so strong, I can’t open them without breaking them, shooting off two trajectiles in adjacent directions.
Might it be possible to get a new circlip from @torqueboards? It’s for a TB 6374 motor.

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@PrivacyDoctor - You should be able to use any 7mm diameter cir-clip also. Usually harbor freight has a wide assortment of them. Mcmaster works too. We have some also. You can email us.

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Thank you, I’ll check there! Might it also be possible to get the original bearing? (Previous owner ran it without circlip for a while, and it sounds damaged now)

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Usually, ebay/amazon works good for cheap bearings. I don’t have any spare bearings on hand.

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Thanks, I am not looking for a cheap one though, I’ll keep looking for a good one.

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With a circlip tool. They’re cheap, and very useful.

If you want good, try McMaster.

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VESC SETTINGS FOR A NOOP? (SEARCH WASNT HELPFULL)
[10s4p - dual maytech 6374 170kv - dual maytech superfoc 50A]

Hey guys, Im on my first build as some of you may have noticed :wink: I have everything running, but want to walk through my settings and optimize things, so I won’t blow things.

Some pictures to tackle any “NOOP mistakes”

  • My first concern is: It looks like my throttle gives not many steps between full speed and not moving.
  • My 2nd: what about Battery Voltage Cutoff Start?







Is it necessary to fill in motor poles? How to know how many?

PPM settings:


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I use this all the time, works pretty well. No broken circlips yet.

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Just hit the “apply” button here.

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I was thinking that lol

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