I think it’s better if the first five charges or so at 100% to make sure all the cells are balanced. So, the other way around.
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oops 
glad I asked
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I love what’s happening on this forum. It’s like we’re rebuilding after a hurricane.
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Ive been trying to take apart a TB 6355 motor and every time I try to pull it apart it gets stuck halfway. Is there any reason for this?
Magnets. It’s easier to remove the can if the top plate is mounted or you put the shaft in a vise.
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Once you get it apart successfully:
Be super-fucking careful putting it back together
It can just about take a finger off if you’re not careful. As you put it together, the last centimeter or so it will go into a self-sustaining implosion. There’s not really much you can do to stop it. Keep your fucking fingers clear if you want to keep them
Sometimes it helps to put a rag or cloth in there so the can smashes down onto the cloth and has a soft landing, then carefully pull the cloth out. Dry kitchen rags work great for this.
edit 2023:
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I know, Ive taken smaller drone motors apart before and even with how small they are there vicious.
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Been there. I believe it could be one of the grooves on the shaft where the c-clips were sitting that locks the can if it glides just slightly to one side as it’s pulled out. Just a hypothesis as I could never see exactly what caused this to happen. Not saying I’m recommending it, but “carefully” hitting the shaft with a sledgehammer did the trick.
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Use a kitchen towel and wrap it around the end of the can so it gives you a couple of centimeters of room that is left open as you’re sliding the can back in place. Then remove the towel and you’ll get to keep all your 9 fingers!
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I would say one of the bearings get stuck with your shaft. Maybe the shaft even a bit bend which could cause this.
What you could try is to unlock the shaft from the can and push (slightly Hammer it out).
As soon as the shaft isn’t connected to the bell anymore it should be easy to take it apart.
PS: my technique to take apart and assemble the motor back is, just mount the motor outside facing on your motor mounts (not inside like usual).
With it the motor is fixed and mo need to hold it with two hands. If you put back the bell there is also no way that your fingers get stuck as you hold it only from outside the bell.
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How can you determine what is the highest amp charger you can use to charge your pack? For example on my 10S4P 30Q I used a 4A charger. Now my 10S3P I have a 2A. Would it be fine to use a 4A on a 10S3P 30Q that’s 9Ah’s or should I look into a 3A charger?
I’d like to maximize battery life but also not have it take an insane amount of hours to charge.
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Liion charge to 1C. If it’s 30q, then 1p will be 3amps, 3p can be 9amp
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Oh there i remember the last year…one fitness guy…loved his weights soooo much…and than his…got stuck in the hole… 
@Grozniy it wasn’t you? 
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I would check the data sheet of the cells you use.
https://datasheetspdf.com/mobile-pdf/951041/Samsung/INR18650-30Q.html
It says 4A fast charge per cell.
The rest is up to you, your charge port and the bms with wires.
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Where is the best information for setting up the unity and dealing with the new speed control? Before I begin I wish to educate myself without reading a giant thread filled with bullshit and have to sift through everything to find actual technical data and useful information.
30q 60a BMS 12cell
LHB 190kv 4000w motors
107mm wheels
wheel pulley is 36
What should my motor pulley be X??
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Mine broke the hole
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What silicon/adhesive do all you guys use for building P-Groups?
hot glue. Some people use corning 737 or other neutral cure silicones that won’t smell terrible and leave deposits on things as it cures.
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