Is there any other way to protect it from going up in flames?
Thatās a complicated question. You are valuing the hardware and what you are doing indeed can help save it.
HOWEVER
I prefer to put my own safety above the hardwareās safety. If the board is melting down I want the last 2 seconds it works to be BRAKING and responding to the remote as-opposed to a fuse blowing and saving the battery and stuff but then I crash into a car because I have no brakes.
So, itās complicated.
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Thatās a fair pointā¦ usually I go below running speed on campus streets and paths, so maybe have a loopkey with the fuse so I can get a change of it not creating an inferno on campus but I can bypass it for speed runs?
Edit: how would you put a fuse in a loop key? I guess solder a blade fuse to the leads and wrap the whole think?
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Just make the loop key (the key part) with a fuse instead of a wire
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Iāll look into that then, automotive large blade fuse with waterproof inline holder?
I make things waterproof myself, I usually donāt buy them that way
Iād just solder the fuse directly to the XT90S female
Then Iād photograph it and put it in the loopkey thread 
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I wonder how to do it with a slimmer AS150ā¦I guess the tube holders wouldnāt be bad external and you can insert a dud fuse in to keep brakes easily
Does anyone who has focbox hardware 1.6 has their erpm limit set above 60k? Is it safe to do so?
I know 1.7 is but not sure about 1.6.
Many gracias.
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Between silicone and neoprene rubber sheet, which is a better gasket material? And is 0.125" a good thickness for it? I have a massive roll of 0.375" neoprene foam sheet but itās way to thick and apparently turns to dust under pressure
Edit: enclosure is 9x17ā¦do I get a 12x24 sheet or a small sheet and make 4 ribbons for the edges with wood exposed in the middle?
Edit 2: and is it worth getting the adhesive backed version?
Edit 3: found something called SBRā¦supposedly this would be a better water proofing material than neoprene since its non absorbent and hella cheap
Over the past few months I have been getting a lot of over current faults when accelerating and throttling too hard. The board cuts out for about 3 seconds and then resumes as if nothing happened until I pin the throttle again. I think this is down to 1 of 2 things and wanted your advice.
1: vesc settings too high:
My vesc settings could potentially be too high and although I never had this problem when I first built the board, I may have upped the settings down the road and didnāt see a correlation between the cutouts and my changes.
2: Bad phase wire connections:
A few of my phase wires are in pretty bad shape and in danger of shorting. The wires are frayed and copper wire is exposed, one of which is almost ripped in half.
Before I put my board out of commission for a while while waiting for parts and fixing #2, could my settings be a contributing factor? Both motors lose power when this happens which makes me thing itās not #2 (although that needs fixed as soon as my other board is ready to substitute)
Hey guys
Iāve seen āHobbywingā mentioned more than a few times. This is the esc in Wowgo board.
Is it really that good for moderate applications? Smooth throttle/brakes?
Fool proof? (I understand itās not configurable)
Where can I buy one to run 2 belt motors? The majority seem to be for hubs.
Thanks,
Dani
I need help finding 3D print files, I am trying to find a sort of enclosure/blanket to hold 6p 18650. Then each one I connect with wire.
Dunno about that ESC but got a jumper T16 from them (hobbywing) a week ago and no issues with the vendor quick shipping too considering think it came from China to Chicago in a few days.
Are you looking for temporary holder for spot welding or permanent case for the cells?
Couple of options for 18650 6P search here https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=18650+6P&dwh=665d23bc87648c8
Permanent, just extra protection
That works great actually!! Thanks soo much!
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How are the ESCs connected? Split PWM (āPPMā) or CANBUS or not connected at all (dual receivers/PWM/PPM)
That length of time sounds suspiciously like a DRV error or over ABS current error recovery time
Canbus
When I had my metr pro connected, all I saw were over current faults. No DRV ones.
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Try switching which ESC is āmasterā and see if only one ESC powers down for 3 seconds at a time instead of both.
If so, then try switching which ESC the motors are connected to. Does it switch where the faults are?
If so, try a BLDC hand test
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Iāll give it a go swapping escās master/slave. If I recall, swapping motors did nothing but I can try again.
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