Depends on your definition of āsmallā, and what your budget is, Iād say. I know of several converters that will handle well in excess of 60v, but the output current is significantly different between the different models.
This ridiculous thing, for example, far exceeds all your requirements (except maybe minimum input voltage), but it costs $400+.
What do you need 180 watts of 12v power for?
I assume 60v is your maximum input voltage. Whatās your minimum?
Not 15A but if itās discrete loads you could use one of these for each light/whatever/thing youāre trying to drive
CV only with mount holes: (14S max)
CC/CV wrap in foam and toss in there (no mount holes): (14S max)
I use both of these for all my board lighting needs
CV = constant voltage
CC/CV = constant current until set voltage is reached, then constant voltage
Has anyone tried to improve the Evolve GTR all terrain, e.g. better battery, VESCs, axles, motors etc? For example, whenever I go offroad the motors over heat after ~ 3-5 minutes (and change automatically from GTR to PRO mode). Ideally, the improvements should not add any additional weight.
I realized my D6 Pro Dual has been in LiPo mode all this time and not LiIon. What I noticed though is it will charge up to 4.2 volts per cell in LiPo mode and only 4.1 in LiIon. I can increase it manually up to 4.15 as this balance charger lets me have some control over where I want to stop charging at; but I find it strange LiIon mode is limited to stop at 4.1 volts. I think I should go back to LiPo mode.
Yup think there is a thread about wheel balancing but long story short do it. Little weights are cheap and just stick them in typically opposite the filling plug to balance it out. Can spin them freewheeling on the trucks if they stop and rotate back after spinning they are imbalanced, you can get a feel for where to add weights just tapping the wheel a bit and seeing where it rotates back.
The problem is that there are already weights.
The wheels are balanced, the problem its that the tires itself wobble.
(The videos is a bit older) In the video i had a bad batch from mbs, that problem has been resolved but even with the new tires it wobbles.
My i can ride longer with my hub board than my mtb. My feet just hurt so much faster on the mtb due to the shaky ride.
Change the tires then 
The are no fixes to a faulty tire from my knowledge. Get a refund if you can.
At some point in there you might as well go DIY. The GTR is not a bad build, but once you reach itās limits, thereās not much you can do. 10s4p 35E battery, proprietary ESC, 5065 150kv motors. To start, you would need bigger motors, which means you would need to upgrade the ESC, which means you need to replace the battery. No single component is bad on it, it was just a board designed for the average rider.
The limitation of āno additional weightā is probably going to inhibit any upgrades however. Anything you put on with more performance is going to be bigger and heavier. Bigger battery, bigger motors.
They are brand new.
I had bad batch, told them, got a new set but have the same problem basically
I am of no help, but I have some questions so I can more clearly understand the situation. I apologise if this would have been answered by just watching all the unlisted videos in your channel, but I have not yet figured out to do that.
If you take off all four tires, and spin up your wheels on the bench, your board and trucks are stable indicating that the hubs/innertube assemblies are well balanced?
If so, would you be able to add each tire back one at a time to see which tire is so unbalanced?
Iām just curious if it is a specific tire that is so out of balance, or an issue that affects all the tires in your batch
Liion are actually not intended to be charged to 4.2vā¦
Itās probably fine if you do but it will decrease cell lifetime somewhat.
I feel like every tire is wobbly. One more than the other. Some up and down, some left and right. It is definitely better compared to the bad batch i had.
Like i said, the weight distribution is taken care of, the tire and- or tubes are the problem. The Lip/Bead sits higher on some parts creating the wobble. No matter how much i adjust it ( i atleast canāt figure it out)
Might take a video later
Yah Iām also pretty good about not fully discharging. Just was so used to common knowledge of 4.2 volts being the top end of lipo and liion. Of course itās better for cycle life if you donāt charge and discharge fully.
Currently on my first build ;-). However, I think the deck of the Evolve GTR is pretty good, in particular since it has uniform body and therefore there is no need to mount an enclosure on the bottom - only very few decks have it, e.g. neoOne (https://rideneo.co/). I am currently struggling with this with my first build; I find aligning the enclosure with the threaded inserts pretty tricky, and the holes keep getting bigger and bigger. Moreover, sealing the whole thing to make it water resistant is also not easy, although I found some nice solutions to that, I think.
Thus, when you already have the Evolve GTR just using the deck, but adding a gear drive, VESC, better battery etc. seems not entirely far fetched to me. However, I understand that only very few people would go down that route since those that bought it may be already happy with the package and may thus refrain from tickering with it or consider it as too much of an effort with too little gain?
I am hesitating between hummie hubs with paris trucks (the normal setup) vs neohub and sr tkp
What would you choose and why? price is not a factor btw, just imagine they are the same price.
0 voters
There is a fair share of DIY evolves around, I have 2 myself. One was just a battery replacement to a 10s5p 30Q and the other is 4wd with only deck and trucks left. The question just comes down to whether you want to gut a working board for just the deck. If you like the deck, you could always purchase a deck only from evolve and build it up from scratch too.
Agree itās hard to impossible I think to get them perfectly balanced (or anywhere close) to eliminate the wobble but should be able to reduce it significantly at least at lower speeds it shouldnāt be uncomfortable. One other thing is Iām using a loaded deck (icarus) for my pneumatics build and itās a pretty flexy deck and eats ups any remaining vibrations unless Iām at high speed when I start to notice it again a bit but not noticeable at regular cruising speed for me somewhere around 15mph. For reference using TB pneumatics setup here.
Personally coming from a short deck with urethane on it that was relatively stiff the lower impact vibrations I get from a bit of wheel imbalance on my setup is acceptable but it did take some balancing or else was crazy wobbly even at lower speeds.
@xsynatic i am not sure if you mentioned it. what psi are you tires pumped to? does the wobble intensity change depending on how high/low the tire is pumped?
Agree, but this is not normal. Iāll contact mbs again later asking for help. My wowgo 2s hub board is rougher but i can ride it for way longer. My feet hurt after 5km on the mtb. It feels like those vibrating homesport devices just with less but stronger vibrations. ^^
@PixelatedPolyeurthan i canāt tell you the exact number, i use a bike pump and pump them up until i can press only 1-3mm in on the side (again, can make a video later)