Remove it or turn it the other way around yeah
Thank you! should i put something between the deck and the trucks if i remove it?
Not necessarily riser pads especially angled ones are totally optional they effect the stability and ability to turn or agility of the board and non angled just give you more ground clearance again at trade off of stability (puts your feet further from the fulcrum in the trucks)
A little experimentation here will go a long way I think, no harm in taking things off and reassembling a bit, just don’t overtighten the screws holding trucks to the deck can break things that way, some small rubber risers help with that and probably absorb some small impacts (although wheels and deck stiffness effect feeling of vibrations and road more)
ok, good news then! i’ll remove them and probably add some small rubber risers as per your suggestion! thanks!
No problem if you search around too not sure if it got moved here but there are a couple of threads that go in detail on truck setup and choosing bushings that is worth a read as you are tinkering. (Believe two separate threads one on choosing riser angles and direction on front and back and one on bushings iirc)
I think those two ^^^ threads are what @wafflejock was referring to. Plz correct me if I’m wrong tho.
I miss squishy I hope he is doing ok.
Axle says 50x10mm (60,70 etc avail)— i assume that’s not 50mm of exposed axle? There’s literally zero info on their site.
Looks like 50x10 comes with a 10mm spacer. That 25mm wheel with spacer in it, 15mm in hanger?
Anyone know how to interpret these options for Tkp?
Found this in another thread.
Do you just get used to letting go of the throttle at high speeds on a gear drive board… almost feeling like a sorta brake? I started riding hubs then DDs and obviously those just free roll for days. I was just wondering if you simply get used to the feeling of letting go of the throttle at high speeds or is there anything you can adjust on the VESC/unity? Thanksss again.
You get used to it. You can set some things like a slower ramp-down speed, but that can be very dangerous if you suddenly have a situation where you need to apply all the brakes you have RIGHT NOW.
My recommendation is to not let go of the throttle and let it spring back to neutral, but instead to slowly return it to neutral with your hand. Basically treat it as if it doesn’t have a spring return.
YES to @MysticalDork 's answer don’t snap the throttle instantly closed without being prepared… the board will want to do wonky things going from full-on to off instantaneously on a board that is not direct drive
Thanks so much. I’ll read the thread, figure out what i have (total newB and not native english speaker…) and then knock your door for help! appreciate your chiming in!
In addition to what other have recommended, make sure your gears are meshing well and not too tight.
Simple question so I’ll keep it brief:
Replacing main caps on vesc - higher than original capacitance ok or no?
Providing they’re still rated for 60V it’s a good thing if you can get more capacitance on the battery leads.
Thanks! Good to know cause my options are limited…
Piggyback question - best fuse rating for 8a charge current? I was thinking 10a but I’m no expert…
General 50% higher than required current, id go 12a or 15a if 12a is hard to find. I use a 10a fuse for 4a charging but a short is going to be 100a+