Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

They donā€™t fit snug for me either. I just let it rock back and forth. Feels like the motor cogging tbh :joy: :joy: :joy:

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Hahahahaha idk man Iā€™m usually pretty yolo about that kinda shit but something just didnā€™t sit well. I was like itā€™s not snug nope taking them offā€¦

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does xmatic iOS app work with flipsky bluetooth module?

Will this work as an anti spark power switch?

Puting a 3 state switch, with a resistor on the intermediate position to avoid the spark?

If so, what resistor should I use?

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Would work if the switch can carry all that current. Resistor value does not need to be very high. Under 10 ohms, too much and it takes too long to charge. I believe XT90 connector uses like 5 ohm ish?

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Interesting idea, it might work. Get rid of the fuse (put that on the charge port)

Iā€™d try a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor to start maybe like this

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ohmite/TWW5J10RE/TWW5J10RE-ND/824537

See if you destroy that or if it charges fast enough to mitigate spark, adjust the values from there. Maybe go down to 4.7Ī©

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Question guys, hope someone can chime in here to help me. So i bought this set of trucks + motors from AliExpress. it came with its own raiser pads which iā€™ve used from day one on my initial deck (a standard trick deck from the old years as ā€œanalogā€ skater). Now iā€™ve had upgraded the deck to a 35 degrees trampa deck. Question is: should i remove the raiser pads? guess they increases the angle further which may not be the case. Iā€™ve not ridden this setup because of some fried electronicā€¦ but i guess i need to remove the raiser padā€¦ correct?

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It will work in principle, the trouble is finding a switch that can carry the level of current we draw, that isnā€™t either huge, expensive, or both.

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It was around ~80+ usd most of the time. But you can now get it for 55$ shipped and new from ownboard.

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I have a small battery pack that iā€™d like to disassemble to salvage the cells. Whatā€™s the steps of removing all the nickel strips, BMS, balance wires etc? Any sequence to follow?

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Cut off all wires. break down the to the p groups. Then starting the negative with needle nose pliers roll up the nickel like a open sardine can. Then i like to pull away cells from positive nickel. Finish with sharp side cutters on stubborn bits of strip. The I dremel the ends, capacity test add barley paper ring and add new wrap add label with capacity and IR.

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Anyone please?

Remove it or turn it the other way around yeah

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Thank you! should i put something between the deck and the trucks if i remove it?

Not necessarily riser pads especially angled ones are totally optional they effect the stability and ability to turn or agility of the board and non angled just give you more ground clearance again at trade off of stability (puts your feet further from the fulcrum in the trucks)

A little experimentation here will go a long way I think, no harm in taking things off and reassembling a bit, just donā€™t overtighten the screws holding trucks to the deck can break things that way, some small rubber risers help with that and probably absorb some small impacts (although wheels and deck stiffness effect feeling of vibrations and road more)

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ok, good news then! iā€™ll remove them and probably add some small rubber risers as per your suggestion! thanks!

No problem if you search around too not sure if it got moved here but there are a couple of threads that go in detail on truck setup and choosing bushings that is worth a read as you are tinkering. (Believe two separate threads one on choosing riser angles and direction on front and back and one on bushings iirc)

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I think those two ^^^ threads are what @wafflejock was referring to. Plz correct me if Iā€™m wrong tho.