it would be really good if you could just switch say remotes to try to isolate the issue
I had another remote and that was the feather remote and it had real cutouts no spikes in accel but almost “killing” me cutouts.
I thought vx1 is the safest bet…
The only difference I know between those two is, that I used PPM on the feather and uart on the vx1
Have you tried opening the remote to see if maybe one of the potentiometer wires has a bad connection or anything like that?
Have you considered that it might be your esc?
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Will do that asap
I dont think the escapes are broken, because the issues differ from remote to remote… feather is known for cutouts and the vx1 behaves different.
Or you can try to connect VX1 via PPM.
EDIT: Just to be sure that you have your VX1 allright.
I’m running Trampa superstars on mine with normal skate bearings and the offset bearing spacer.
@ZachTetra is running MBS hubs in some sort of configuration.
Your other option is not gluing in the axles and running 10mm shoulder bolts.
We discussed some options in a thread I started here: Trampa wheels on Boardnamics 270 Hangers
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I have MBS Rockstar II hubs, 16100-2RS bearings, Trampa Urban Tread tubes and tires, Boardnamics BN270 trucks and mounts, M10 spacers, and 80mm * 10mm M8 shoulder bolts
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see the full thread for ways that breaks:
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Hey guys,
to start I live in New Zealand.
Ive just purchased a Trampa pro belt with a 2020 monster box. I didnt realize it didnt come with a battery but Ive decided to tackle the issue myself. Ive seen quite a few people recommend Li-Ion Batterys and I think thats the route id like to go.
I am looking for best range. I will be riding off road a lot and doing jumps.
Trampa has two batteries recommended on their site but theyre Lipo. Any help here would be greatly appreciated as I am very new to this.
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What’s your budget and do you plan on buying a pre-built or making one on your own?
Also welcome 
Im sure this has been answered already, so if someone can point me in the right direction that would be great. but a couple questions before I head to bed.
What are the differences in KV’s for motors.
Is there a specific kv limit on @3DServisas SS Mini Helical Gear Drive V4 gear drive?
About to order some Maytech 6374 but not sure if I should do 170, 190, or 220kv. Is there a perk for going with a bigger sized motor? 6396?
(12s4p, trampa VESC6)
KV is the shorthand for “RPM per volt of input”. Basically how fast the motor will rev for a given battery voltage.
Lower KV motors have less RPM, but more torque. Higher KV motors have more RPM, but less torque.
Go to the esk8 calc link up in the banner, and enter in your proposed board’s details, and it will calculate the speed you’ll achieve. Things that affect speed include:
- wheel size
- KV
- battery voltage
- gear ratio
Changing any one will change the overall speed you can achieve.
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Sweet! thank you for a clear and detailed response. Yea, I’ve been messing with variables in the calculator, but still a bit confused on what all the values mean. (motor poles, efficiency)
Also, would you happen to know the different cons & perks on going bigger with the motor for example 6374 vs 6396.
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Bigger motors in general can handle more power, because they can handle more current before the iron of the core begins to saturate, and also because they have more mass to soak up heat.
Pros: more power, assuming you can supply it.
Cons: heavier, more expensive, higher baseline losses (they’re not worth it unless you’re gonna make use of the extra overhead, basically.)
Leave the efficiency at the default 90% and the pole count at 14. You only really need to mess with those if you’ve got weird motors or a really unconventional setup.
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You’re the best thanks! 
The one BIG advantage of the 6396 over the 6374 is that it has a skirt bearing. That means the outer can is supported on both ends, so you won’t have any issues with the can getting bent or loosening on the shaft due to cantilevered forces.
There are 6374s that have a skirt bearing too, like the Hobbyking SK3 and SK8. but the maytechs do not as far as I know, and neither do most of the others (TB, etc.)
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Alright this should be a simple one for you guys. On my build I run my batteries directly to Unity.
I used to have a flipsky 6.6 dual that I ran without a power switch and I would connect/disconnect the the batteries when I wanted to turn it on/off.
I have a power switch on the Unity. Would it hurt to leave the batteries connected with the switch off when not using the board so I don’t have to take the batteries out of my enclosure every time?
Just want to make sure there aren’t any hazards involved.
I can’t recommend a size battery without knowing the interior size of the box and the other parts you have packed in there, but the cells will be the same regardless. If you want a good all around cell then either Molicel P42A (21700 type cell) or Samsung 30Q (18650 type cell), if you are trying to squeak out that extra bit of range then Samsung 50E (21700 type cell) or Sanyo NCR18650GA (18650 type cell) but they only crank 10A per cell so you need a really big battery like a 12s8p to have enough kick
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Or pneumatic wheels
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@bobbymfball, You’re in NZ, cells are not cheap.
30Qs can be found for about $8NZD each at a bulk rate from some suppliers.
Got them from https://www.ejuicebar.co.nz
Have previously got them from Vaping Kiwi shop.
There’s some Trademe deals for cheaper 10A discharge cells but not ideal for esk8 unless you building a massive pack.
Like this, but as Zach says you’d probably want an 8p (at least) pack.