I think both will get just as dirty; white one looks more unique, go for that one I reckon.
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Yes so I tried running it at 10V with limited duty cycle but I still have the same problem with the motor not running properly and the parameters from the FOC detection being different from the data sheet. I have a high inertia flywheel attached to the motor, could that make things difficult?
I also tried with another motor that could handle 14V (but was still around the same size) and without the flywheel. I couldn’t get that to work either. Could there be something wrong with the vesc or am I maybe just doing the settings completely wrong lol?
Sure.
The “absolute maximum current” number does absolutely nothing except throw a fault and cause you to lose throttle and brakes for 
THIS LONG
I always change that number to like 85ms which is long enough to feel, but not long enough to toss you off like 500ms is, and also set “absolute maximum current” to the max it will let you set it at.
I wish it’d let me set it to 300A or more.
The DRV chip itself already has overcurrent protection, this is unneeded and adds extra risk
Often it will show up while braking hard from a medium speed and you hit a small rock or hole or something, and all of a sudden you lose brakes for how long? I prefer 85ms over 500ms
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Sooo… Where do y’all get pre-cut grip tape?
Or how do i cut it clean?
The Mini FSESC4.20 isn’t too bad if you limit it to under 25A. I have two in the Green One running at 21.5A battery max each.
I’m not sure either, but they look like a good thing to try as they are very compact, but I think you need to add an electrolytic capacitor to each one.
I think the moral of the story is that if you use very conservative settings and don’t try to squeeze every amp of performance out of your equipment, your chances of heartbreak are much, much, much smaller. Two times 20A in reality is plenty of power for an esk8. Turning things up too far leads to two things imho:
- abilty to brag
- broken shit
So if you want those two things, go for it
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now that i got a metr receiver on my unity,
is there a reason why i shouldn’t put the stock unity
receiver on the cheap vesc in my spare board ?
(i mean, if it just need some jumper cables…)
Connect a different motor and see if it does the same thing.
I feel like it is a PWM issue like your receiver momentarily cuts out or sends a 99% instead of 100%
Also adjust your PWM settings, I adjust mine so the physical wheel/trigger moves from -104% to +104% that way the last 4% of the throw is all “full power” so it doesn’t bounce around
Does it do the same thing if you command a full speed with the up arrow? What about the right arrow?
Tomorrow I will experiment with a different stator / different motor.
Don’t think it’s the remote, because when I assembled it again and rode down the street it made a very loud, harsh noise at a certain speed. Definitely mechanical.
Hmm, that does sound smart, but from what I can tell in vesc tool, my remote bounces from like 99.9% to maybe 99.7%, and it’s impossible to even notice that change due to the ramping time constants & small change in current (linear throttle).
I just don’t know what that does to the math. Easier to eliminate that variable while troubleshooting.
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What you said here i wrong. Each port would connect to a single ESC. Please stop giving out advice when you are so clearly still in the early stages of your esk8 journey. This is not the first time you’ve given out info that is incorrect, and can be quite dangerous
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You’re absolutely right - apologies. I thought you would use a y Splitter for this task 
If it had only these two, one of them would have to be the charging port, right?
Or its a really weird sort of charge and discharge on the same port battery…
Don’t know why someone would do that.
But yes, I’ll chill and learn more
Good night!
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And as a point of clarification, there is some batteries that are built with an XT60 for charging, but this is almost always in conjunction with an external charging and/or balance system. This is done for higher charging levels. I’m not aware of anyone selling batteries like this, although I’m sure some builders could customize a design if needed
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That made me laugh so hard 
!! But yeah it’s true pushing electronics near their absolute limit is a receipe for burnt stuff, sad times and sad bank account.
Thanks for the info on the mini fsec 4.2, it’s gonna help me make a better decision 
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How’s your experience with the maker-x so far?
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As long as I keep it within spec range, really good. But when I push it over what it was designed for like a moron, I get some sleepy timeouts on one side and some stuttering. Everything 40 and below is golden.
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Awsome good to know!! Might be nice to setup a thread with all the current available vescs alternatives and their safe operation range, if it does not exist yet 
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Which model is this?
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looks like this one
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Correct.
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