its aluminium pcb so heating the whole thing would be the easiest, it conducts heat so well its almost impossible to only heat one part
apply smd flux aswell
on Aliexpress they sell small-ish 20x20cm reflow pcb “preheaters” which will get the pcb evenly up to temp and then you can come in with a hot air reflow station to desolder the fet
these are great if you need to do any smd work especially on alu pcbs
“I used this hot plate and a hairdryer, but the MOSFETs burned before I could remove them :(”
So mine arrived today, and the power switch on/off isn’t working properly
first time after applying power from battery, it’ll turn off the controller instantly when sw is pulled to gnd, that is good
However, after first switchoff and its powered back on fully (waited 20s to confirm), it seems to do nothing, it stays on, second time it turns off properly
idk why or what could cause that issue directly but that is concerning to say the least.
i don’t know if next revision could be made like more normal ebike controllers so you get separate battery in wire which is switched by one of those voltmeter switches or a screen, or atleast have that as an option via a switch?
incase you do that you definitely want more capacitance on the 12V buck in, but that’s not a big deal right?
i realize it won’t shutdown via vesc functions and won’t save the mileage to the chip, but i don’t care for that, i need a well working way to reliably turn the controllers on/off (i have 2) without having that issue possibly
I would suggest that the next version have more than 4 PCB mounting screws, ideally some in the middle and try to keep the PCBs flatter, the warp in this one means almost zero contact with the case. Also a bit more thermal paste but only after making better contact.
(Picture would go here but it won’t let me embed it, maybe a new user thing?)
And where the phase wires connect put some more of that copper bus bar under the wires to lift them up instead of just a giant blob of solder (unless they are already there but buried under the solder).
Hello, the one-button power on/off function is the same as Mr. Benjamin’s. You don’t need to pull up the power switch pin because the power chip will start when the EN pin is left floating. You only need to connect the power switch pin to the power switch when shutting down. GND.
The following is a tutorial on how to use the one-button power on and off function:
After improving based on testing, we did make more improvements to the power circuit, including adding more capacitors as you mentioned.
Regarding the one-button power on/off function, because the 84200HP power chip has a special EN pin floating startup function, we control the EN pin to turn off the 12V power supply, which can save battery loss in the shutdown state.
After replacing the power chip in the new design later, we will adopt the implementation method you mentioned. There is no need for an information storage chip, only hardware switch control.
Hi, I’m glad you can give me some advice.
If you add mounting holes in the middle of the PCB board, there is no way to install it. Because once the mounting holes are added, it means that the motherboard cannot be removed after the control board is welded.
We also considered this problem at the beginning, by increasing the thickness of the aluminum substrate (3mm) and increasing the amount of silicone grease. Later, because too much silicone grease would overflow, causing customer complaints, we reduced some. After seeing your suggestions, I I will go to the factory to check again to ensure the appropriate amount of silicone grease.
Thanks again.
what if you used pluggable headers instead of direct solder, with a few holes through the logic board and power board (lined up) and M3 standoffs?
then you can screw down the power board with the standoff nuts, and use M3 screws to also fix the logic board when they have pluggable headers.
that means no need for glue or direct solder, you can then just unplug it after removing the screws, then access the power board and eventually unscrew that if you need to.
I would like to see extra smd ceramic caps at the power stage, i know the electrolytics do the majority of the heavy lifting but ceramics really help them out as the ESR is far lower than from electrolytics and actually really helps them out, especially at 20-30kHz switching frequency
as for the power on/off, i understand that Vedder has similar stuff, but that actually works properly
if i connect sw to gnd they turn on and off alternatively, that means if i do it first, nothing happens but the controllers remain on at lowered 3V voltage? which is weird, then if i touch sw and gnd again it turns off
but it alternates, that means it doesnt switch on or off reliably, edit: seems like toggle on off mode actually fixes this…
I would like to see an improvement or a version where you can just switch the input voltage to the logic board (like FSESC 75200 Pro V2)
Thank you very much for your suggestions. We listened to everyone’s opinions and we have implemented them in the newly designed motherboard, including power cords, three-phase lines, power switches, removable motherboards, etc. . .
Please give us some time. We have been doing these things and constantly improving the product. We are just doing verification testing now.
By the way, the 84200HP currently on sale is a modified version that has added ceramic capacitors. But for the switching power supply part, the power chip uses SCT2A23ASTER. The EN voltage only needs to be greater than 1.23V to work, and it can work normally when floating. When the power switch pin is connected to GND, the voltage will be less than 1.23V. The power chip In standby mode, effectively saving losses.
ideally you also want some ceramics between the + and minus closer to the fets, like going directly from the top to the bottom, so inductance is kept the same and low throughout the power stage, but looking great
so yea thats one improvement that could be made
too bad i have the early 84200hps
Is the heatsinking for the FETs on this design done though their epoxy package and not an MPCB? I could be wrong but I think that is generally not nearly as effective as through the drain into an MPCB as you have the thermal resistance of the epoxy FET case unless using special FETs with metal cases. Also make sure those standoffs are supported in the case as well or the leverage from pulling on the cables may delaminate the PCB.
Any updates on this?
any news about this new design?
Sorry for taking so long to reply to you.
Yes, in the new version of 84200HP, we have added some ceramic capacitors and added a protective diode between the gate and source.
If you have an order for an old version of 84200HP, please contact customer service on AliExpress. Similar to our previous commitment, we will offer a discount for the first batch of 84200HP.
Yes, in the new model 100300HP, the power board does not use an aluminum substrate. But we have considered the heat dissipation method, and we will fill more silicone grease at the bottom to completely immerse the MOS tube in the silicone grease, and then dissipate heat through the heat dissipation shell.
Are you referring to 84200HP? If so, we have already completed updates for three versions and have made the schematic public.
Hey bro, I need a couple of controllers for an old Phantom I want to get going. I generally lean toward going for the latest versions of the things so I was looking at your 84100 (over 100 amps is not necessary as the battery can’t produce that).
Is that the right choice? As I noticed in the description it says it’s for water applications?
I’m also assuming the 84100 is easy enough to wire together for a dual motor setup?
Hello, I’m glad you’re interested in the 84100HP motherboard.
If you want to use the 84100HP underwater, you also need to waterproof it, because the 84100HP shell is not waterproof sealed.
Two 84100HP can be assembled into a dual-motor drive through CAN communication, which is a basic function of the VESC motherboard.
No
I want to know about new 100300HP model
Cause my 84200 v1 and 84100 was burned out and I want to update power supply, so I need MOAR POWER xD
But there is no MKS controllers with 24 fets, so I planning to buy fardriver
The new version of 100300HP is already in the production stage and is expected to be available for sale in early December.
At the same time, when designing 100300HP, we listened to many suggestions from ESK8 friends and optimized the wiring method of the motherboard. Thank you very much to ESK8 friends who left a message in the 84200HP post.
Let me briefly talk about some parameters:
In addition, I can share some photos below:
