MY INTEGRATED CRUISER DECK

My mountain board is heavy to take with me to college, so I’m planning on making a smaller one with some pieces I’ve been accumulating.
For the deck I am planning to make mine, I base myself a bit on the haya lid system and I am taking some inspiration from @Linny
I was thinking of sending it to cnc, but I’m expecting costs, I can’t get wood from anything other than pine or oak, I plan to reinforce it with fiberglass (about 3 layers in critical areas and 2 in the rest) I don’t know if it’s necessary make it plywood or it could be a solid wood plank (if so, it would make my life easier) if anyone knows about this it would be great to hear your opinion
This is the design I have, here the components fit perfectly, although perhaps it would be convenient to make the space for things larger to make it lighter
Measurements are 27.5 “x9.44” or 70x24cm
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For the components I have BKB motor mount, NESE 8s1p p42a, Caliber trucks, Popoca 90mm according to me it can be upgradable to 110mm wheels, Mini remote, I’m still thinking about whether it would be convenient for me to go to dual drive and use two 6355 freerchobby or single drive 6384 freerchobby. I have the mounts and the price of a 6384 is almost equal to that of two 6355, I would only have to buy a double set of pulleys that would be around 30usd more and I could put the unity of my mtb since I will change for ubox

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definitely plywood.
one big reason is when laying up the plys, you alternate the direction of the grain. this helps prevent the splitting that is characteristic of wood. JebNeo learned this hard lesson, he laid all the grain in the same direction and he had mad cracks in the decks. also, laminating wood into plywood relieves internal stress of the wood and makes it more dimensionally stable.

Roarockit (sp?) has a great little vacuum deck pressing kit, one of these days I’m going to try it…

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You could do it with 3mm plywood or 15mm oak and a lot of nodular presses. What would you recommend?
Ever see a video of how they put fiberglass between the layers of wood I think I could do that

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yeah, glass would make it stronger, just lay it up between wood lams

If I was going through the trouble of pressing a deck, I would spend the extra dough on good wood. Something exotic like thin purpleheart and padouk layers and make it look unmistakably unique.

DIY gunstocks and recurve bows sometimes use this method. I did this on a speargun and it looks sick

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I’m kinda speaking out my ass here, but isn’t it better to have CF or FG layers on the very top and bottom where it provides the most tensile/compressive resistance?

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I think it affects something to the rc signal, I had thought of making the deck like one I saw in the other forum, let me give me some time and I’ll link it to you

Carbon fiber does, as it is electrically conductive. Fiberglass does not, as it is not electrically conductive.

Also, if your goal is light weight, I dont think that a thick wooden integrated deck like this is the way to go. I think you will struggle to make this deck lighter than a normal deck with a fiberglass enclosure.

If your goal is just to make something cool, then by all means I look forward to seeing what you come up with :smiley:

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I’m interested to see what you come up with. I made something similar. https://tomiboiesk8.com/twin-long-board/ I might be able to give you some tips.

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oh it looks great, did you make the cover first and then add a block for integration?

It’s hard to explain quickly. I make the deck and use a CNC router to make the compartment. Then I epoxy a piece of bamboo to a sheet of fiberglass to make the lid. I use the CNC machine to cut out the lid and then sand it down to match the contour of the deck. You can see some of my process here https://forum.esk8.news/t/gulveig-35-at-integrated-deck-custom-feather-remote-12s4p-stormcore-60d-maytech-6374/35237/49

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Some time ago I bought this deck at Ali, I did not like the shape and cut it a bit, now it is 77cm long and 20 wide
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I’m going to do this integrated enclosure, first I’ll cut the deck
and I will reinforce it with 2 layers of 600gr / m2 fiberglass woven https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-649481289-fibra-de-vidrio-petatillo-se-vende-x-kilo-_JM https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-798825381-poliester-para-fibra-de-vidrio-_JM https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-757215950-gel-coat-negro-de-1-kilo-_JM#reco_item_pos=4&reco_backend=machinalis-seller-items-pdp&reco_backend_type=low_level&reco_client=vip-seller_items-above&reco_id=e60a3983-3aa4-4d56-83d0-eb3a0a5f859f, then I will glue the enclosure that I print with double-sided synth and I will cover it with the fiberglass cloth (I think that with 2 layers will be enough), I would do it as they do with surfboards (making the fiber grip the top of the deck to prevent the enclosure from falling)
If you think I should do something different, give your opinion to decide if I go ahead with this or change my focus
For the engine I decided to go for single 6384 and the transmission will be 40t / 14t, 15t or 16t depending on how it suits me best.
With the assembly of BKB the motor is too close to the base plate of the trucks, with the help of @rafaelinmissouri vi it is possible that it works this closely, in case it does not work you could lower the base plate of the trucks or use a reverse motor mount from tb (I think it would look a little weird on single motor)


in the enclosure I decided to leave extra space for the option to convert to dual and expand the battery in case it turns out to be a garbage
It was difficult to find an 8s bms, there was only lifepo4, I found a cheap one adjustable up to 13s in ali, and I asked for it, it’s on the way
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33037470081.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2cf263c0LuPMf5

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