Split UART for reverse but yeah, I think I just bridged the traces under the PCB when I soldered the wires in, would it fry the electronics to short the CAN high and CAN low?
Small cactus doesn’t feel good
Little bits of progress here and there!
We got the tail mounted enclosure, an Apache 1800 waterproof box bolted to the trucks…just barely big enough for everything, like the squeeze for these components is TIGHT! But a 10s battery with a massive casement, a pair of the massive FlipSky 6.6 with full heatsinks, the antispark with parallel harness, and the remote and Bluetooth wedged in there
As a note the bkb/enertion hm-10 does work with the 6.6 ESCs if you swap the TX/RX pins around
After some repairs we have the second ESC running properly again, sensors and CAN back online
Currently waiting for a dry day to drill some holes in the box for wires and put some thane to the road! Just some asthetic stuff remaining really, all parts are functional!
Thankfully no drill related incidents…yet
Oooh share some pics inside the battery box! I need some inspiration haha
Whoa it is a pretty tight squeeze! Have you thought about taking apart the battery case to make space for more room?
Can’t really, it’s ultrasonically welded to the lower casement so I’d need to Dremel a live battery . I already had to remove the rubber padding that was on the battery to make enough room for the ESCs
I’m kinda happy with the way it packs though, it will keep everything from rattling around at the very least
Those welds are pretty easy to open if you ever change your mind. Don’t dremel it though, just take an exacto and go over the line 37 times.
Need some help with a Bluetooth module, it’s a Enertion Hm10 with the Xmatic app in a FSESC 6.6 plus running the 3.62 firmware. It used to run perfectly but now it doesn’t read speed, everything else runs fine, only ran motor detection since then…suggestions?
BTW the electronics are packed in, wires are all coming out the same hole
Help needed!
Was riding around and got thrown off (sub 15mph, slight downhill, basically full battery) and the board stopped dead
Took a look and one motor side does not pass detection if I run it independently. It passes RL detection fine but flux detection gets stuck at the very end, motor locks up and whines. The motor makes a clicking sound at medium or higher speed and the other motor does not run like a sensored motor even though it definitely is (just passed detection)
Any help is massively appreciated, I can’t let this board back out until I know it’s safe