Which arc reactor do you want to see? I will use the simplistic version as the guide to make cut-outs of the grip tape for the light panel underneath to show.
arc reactor design
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- 4
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I think @MarkOneBoards moved first on #4 (and #3 & #2?)
…but since they turned their back on esk8 in favour of EUC’s, maybe it deserves a new home.
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I didnt know about this! Cool! I hate how some off them are cut-off and not centered lol
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My plan modded is actually more along the lines of what I was thinking. Personally, I’d rather see something like that with slightly more small screws than a more risky design with less larger screws.
The less you have to take out of the deck in volume, the better.
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Thoughts? black lines vs grey lines? red? yellow sections? more sections? Im thinking a mix of straight lines that follow the deck holes and contours that follow deck curves. theres sections where the feet go and then at the ends where the board curves up and around the arc reactor. Ignore the poor drawing and colours that are inaccurate. I’m sure it will look better with gold and proper lines. Will remake in fusion if you like it
Vs
also im thinking the vinyl on the bottom will have the two blue photon beams under the feet! (that are at the palms in the suit that he uses to fly - because ill be flying with the board 
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The enclosure dimensions will fit on the board, 12s16p here I come! I have a challenge: the curvature. I will be printing a gasket in tpu but I think this is too much curvature. I wish I had the model of the deck then I could easily cut my boxes so the bottoms conform to the deck
Take a photo of the deck from the top and from the side, make sure that the angle wihile taking a photo is as close to 90 degrees, measure length, width and thickness of the deck at the middle and I’ll make u a model in a second.
But PLEASE measure it in metric (cm,mm) because I have no idea what inches, feet, foot or 1/64 something mean.
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Man you’ll have 3 sheets of printer paper clearance on that deck once you step on it.
Please reconsider both the idea of having 3dprinted plastic hold the biggest fire hazard in this hobby and how much battery you can actually fit under that deck
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I think he will top mount the battery? Or did I misunderstood that?
Edit. Sorry. My mistake. You are correct.
+1 to all you said it your last post.
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I swear every spring there’s a wave of new diy guys that still think they got that one secret trick up their sleeve above anyone else and will save a lot of money. I was there once too but, wow.
He will spend on printer filament alone half of what a @BigBen haero bro deck enclosure costs, before anything breaks and he’ll have to print alone.
Bigben, save this guy please.
Also, if you want the best deck skinning you’ll ever see, check out Sender’s creations. Ain’t cheap though
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I cant wait to see the final product I love me some Iron man. I hope if you do another comic themed build you make a Lobo deck.
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I just came here to say that a 16p battery will take ages to charge; if you already have a 16s capable ESC, then go 16s12p. Just limit RPM in software so that the motor doesn’t experience more than 13s voltage and you should be good. Faster charging time ftw
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People use a double stack enc with 7inch wheels. Ill be doing a triple stack with 9 inch wheels. It should have the same clearance. If not, adding a 1/2inch riser will give it the same clearance as if it were a double stack so I will have the same clearance as other people. I am going to trust my 3d printing. I’ve seen enough 3d printed enclosure and I have enough 3d printing experience. I know my materials and the batteries. I will be maxing 6A per cell which will keep it under 50 celsius according to tests. My material will not weaken till 70. If I have any issues I will reprint in no warp ABS which is a little more pricey. I usually print with ABS but theres a tiny bit of warp so I’m going with petg for this. I have experience 3d printing for esk8s.
I talked with Bigben already, if I remember, he only has a single stack. Eboosted is making a DS soon that will only fit a 12s8p, half of what I want, I can also use his Kaly DS as some have - that will cost $200 inclusive. Printing the 4 full boxes will cost me $20 of filament. Lets say $30 with prototyping.
Thanks! I don’t know Lobo but I don’t see myself doing another build. This will meet all my needs and I wont need another board.
My cells will be discharged to yield 14Wh per cell according to tests so → 2800Wh, at 50.4v * 8A charging → will take 7hrs to charge, or roughly one night. The range will be so large that I don’t ever need to charge the board fully. Lets say I use 40wh/km. This means 1hr of charge will get me about 10km. Maybe 8km with all efficiency losses. I am really worried about running motors above 13s and I wouldnt know how to limit the erpm and what if there was a voltage spike? I was just hearing from someone who did this and after a while their FS motors died then they replaced with a lower kV motor. I be going with a motor + drivetrain kit so I’ll need to go with FS motors and will save $. I cannot afford for the lifetime of the motor to be in jeopardy in any way.
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1: abs cracks, it’s brittle and has low stress resistance.
2: the haero deck is a mountainboard deck. Even the stiff version almost bottoms out if you jump in the middle
3: dunno how heavy you are but that battery will be in the 10-12kg realm alone
4: my trampa topmount box can fit 12s9p filled to the brim, maybe consider taking at least some of the weight off the undertray
5: consider the roads in your area. Is it smooth asphalt all around or does it look like your mayor snorts cocaine off hookers tits with public money?
6: cells in esk8 use are barely stressed. On average people consume 1000w cruising at 20mph. That’s 20 battery amps total at 12s
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Fair but how are people fine with a DS on 7 inch wheels? You can treat this as the exact same clearance as that if I add a 1/2inch riser. Im only 160lbs and but yes it is a heavy battery. My roads are really varied. I’m not worried about clearance. 1/2 inch riser + 9 inch wheels will be maybe more clearance than the DS people use on 7inch.
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Can you link the build using 7 inch wheels with double stack on a haero deck? Really curious what’s going on there.
Clearest, most obvious example i know of why that won’t work is @Lee_Wright that didn’t have enough clearance with no bottom tray and trucks mounted in the outer position. The deck itself scraped in forest runs
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