I call that phenomenon a “hip flick” and yes, it works very well, unless
HFI is cool when it’s tuned perfect and works great. It’s difficult to tune, and once your motor changes temperature or gets hot, it’s often so far out of tune it doesn’t work well at all. Some HFI setups are dreamy, when the stars align correctly. Others are terrible. I think there is a certain amount of luck involved.
Why spend all the time and money on a DIY that you have to kick push to start when you can buy a board that starts with no help up a hill for like $500? Fuck a hip flick, we’re past that BS
“Let me break functionality before it happens naturally and call it reliability”
So much this. Sensorless operation is garbage, HFI/ASS/VSS/siHFI or whatever you want to call it these days - there’s no replacement for sensors. 6 years of riding here and not a single sensor failure yet!
HFI is something you use whilst you are waiting for your replacement motor to come in, imo.
you know what i dont have issues with? being single 
love your pfp
EXACTLY
Allright allright I’m gonna plug these bloody sensors!! 
Just de-pin the temp sensor on the jst plug motor side if u want to be sure. I hate the things, and they definitely can throw you off if they start to fault!
So it wasn’t completely wrong to say that connecting the sensors can lead to cutoffs, not because of the position “hall” sensor itself, but because of the motor temperature.
Which one is the temperature one on the connectors?
Grazie
It will say on the esc. Just de-pin the wire that matches the temp on esc. Simple matter of carefully prying back the little white tab with a blade then pulling the wire from the plug.
Haven’t wired up the sensors yet, however, I one pf the vescs keeps cutting off during hard acceleration.
At first i had abs overcurrent, so based on what I’ve read on the forum, I turned on slow abs current.
Now i get the error Fault code drv, however the fault is only temporary, if I release the throttle and accelerate again both motors works fine.
Everything is good and fluid as long as I don’t give full throttle, I am now a bit desperate and in need of help 
Anyone can advise?
What are your current settings?
62 -30 absolute max 130 each motor 70 -30 battery each side. VSS FOC setup. Running 12s5p.
Abs Overcurrent error motor 1, happened with these settings.
Following this I enabled slow abs current, and I got the DRV error, So i tried to tune down motor to 55 and battery to 50, still getting drv error
I fear I might have exaggerate with the settings… Everything else seems in order, no loose soldering, all the cables are ok, battery is not draining more than expected, esc at 40 celsius, and motor cans are absolutely not hot, barely warm
Swap motors, reset and run the motor wizard. If it happens on the same side its probably the DRV chip
Which means… Can throw the vesc on the bin?
You can pay some DRV wizard to replace it or you can do it yourself if you have a hot air gun and necessary skills but last I heard DRV chips are hard to find these days
Thanks,
Do you think I can keep riding with conservative settings in the meanwhile that this gets resolved?
Anyone know a “DRV wizard” in uk?
Lastly, once repaired, will it be less reliable?
Just did a quick search, easy to find the chinese clone, but the ones from Texas instruments are hard to find.
Called mouser uk, theyare expecting a delivery next year!
A quality repair wouldn’t make it any less reliable… but I’d get an ESC that wasn’t v4 based instead of having it repaired imo.
Yes, I am already looking for one, but I’d still repair this one for a less power thirsty project
