Jeffy J Race board- Reacher 6388s- BN M1AT gears- LY Switch deck- 12s5p p42a

Built a board that will hopefully be more race track worthy than my TBDD 4wd.

It’s got a shit tonne of torque but top speed is lacking so will suit short go-kart style tracks. The plan is to switch it over to belts soon so I have flexibility over gearing for different track meets.

Here is the semi final product:



It took a lot of time to get to this point and my finishing skills are lacking but pretty happy. I’ve had issues with sensors so ripped them out on motor side and good for now but will need to address for proper race starts when I start racing again.

Here’s where it started:







It’s a Landyachtz Switch fibreglassed top and bottom with a few chops to allow more steer. To be honest It’s not the right choice deck because even moving trucks back and making some cuts the wheels hit on a loose setup. I need to run 6 inch wheels to avoid bite.







Got my Reacher motors, along with a lot of other stuff from fullsendelectric.net. I wanted to rear mount but they were too big for 270mm BN hangers and hit the baseplate. So had to inward mount but not happy with the clearance, especially if I end up running 6 inch wheels.
Cut the motor shafts for the BN gears and used the bag over motor technique to avoid any sparks/metal getting into motors. They are the 190kv version.








@glyphiks built my battery and whipped up another enclosure for my LY switch deck (he’d already made a mould and enclosure previously so he had no issues at all second time round did you :wink:). The enclosure is very sleek and I’m stoked with it. The battery is sexy too. Love the clear wrap and how neat it is built.
Electronics consisting of Robogotchi and GPS, Maker X DV6, Hoyt Puck.

I tried to have sensor plugs but all the work I put in failed when I test rode. I was having flawless function until 5mins in then very irregular jerkiness. Turned out to be sensor issues of some sort. Not sure if it was because I tried to use cheap connectors, or poor solder joint somewhere, or the motor sensors themselves. I need to get this fixed for racing!!










Bindings added with sex bolts because I wanted to be able to remove easily. Epoxied in like the sex bolts for enclosure. I cut grooves in the top so epoxy would hold them in place better (not my trick, read it on forum somewhere, probably Glyphiks).
Gripped the deck with Raijin Racing griptape.
Started on MBS hubs but then got some Newbee wide hubs.



These Newbee Hubs were not designed for gear drives so when I screwed bolts in from front for my rear wheel drive plate I scratched them up. I grinded the bolt heads a little but not enough to avoid this. I hear the second batch have been made to rectify this problem.




Stupidly i took this board on a bike track and did a few little jumps. The super stiff deck did not like that at all and I cracked multiple ply layers :man_facepalming:.

I managed to aquire another LY Switch deck so back to drawing board on deck prep again:















Skinned the deck this time with a custom skin design from @glyphiks. I didn’t use enough white in my epoxy coat before design went on so the image hasn’t popped quite as much as I’d hoped for but still came up sweet. I used fine glass frit in foot placement areas.

This deck will eventually go on once I’ve drilled my new holes. Also waiting on new motors to switch to a belt drivetrain. I’m keeping the gear drives for offroad build next year.

The performance of this board is hard to gauge as I’ve not raced it yet. It has the 5.1 gear ratio so pulls hard but maxes out at 48km/h on full charge. I’ve had a few over voltage faults lately so need to investigate that too. I love the sound of the gears and they perform well. Bindings while racing will hopefully aid me in the bends but still to try. I took them off when I cracked the deck to avoid excessive forces going through it.

If you’ve made it this far, congrats as it is a bit of a boring write up sorry. I wasn’t going to bother but @abusfullofnuns convinced me as it may inspire others somehow haha.

This build will change dramatically soon so I’ll post the changes when they happen. Changes will include Fullsendelectric reacher 6388 205kv motors, Maker X DV6 Pro, belt drive with different wheel options.

Cheers all.

Ps if anyone can show me how to hide the pics so they only show when you click the little arrow that will be great. I tried searching earlier but couldn’t find.

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To answer your question

image

What connectors are you using for the sensor wires? Looks waterproof! :smiley:

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Fantastic build, sorry about that deck :frowning:

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These ones:

But not quite the entire plug to save room so not really waterproof the way I used them. It was a right pain in the arse soldering them so I wouldn’t recommend haha. I’m getting rid of them and just going to use a blank rubber grommet and cut a slit in in for my sensor cables.

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Yeah was a bitch but the replacement is nearly ready to go now.

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Nice build Jeffy! Despite the scratches, is the BN / newbie hub interface solid?

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Nice build! And balls to the walls taking it to the skate park. Respect.

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Excellent build. Definitely worth posting for the action shot alone.

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Very nice, I have the same deck and wanted to do the same’ish style set up. I assumed the 270 trucks would have been wide enough to avoid wheel bite but now you have me second guessing continuing my build since I’m so early in. Great build!!!

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Interface is solid. They match up well. The bolts needed a little coercion to line up with holes but nothing too tricky. The BN star plate doesn’t have enough meat as most people know (I’ve nearly worn through one side) but that’s also been rectified and I should be receiving a replacement from fullsendelectric soon. The replacement shape looks much better. The fact it’s close to round means they’ll be no chance to chew the hole out.

Thanks @Venom121212 and @abusfullofnuns . This build will be strictly road and racing from now. Building an offroad board with a Ram Board base next year :blush:

You can be more aggressive cutting the corners away perhaps. I was limited with how much I could chop off as my custom enclosure still needed to fit. Also 6 inch or less wheels are fine. With 7 inch I am ok but soft bushings I can still get bite. 8 inch can even work with hard bushings but obviously steering is compromised.

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Thanks for the tire run down, it’s very very useful information.

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The trick to soldering those small connector multi pin cup terminals is solder paste. Solder paste & a small concentrated tip hot air gun (stupid cheap on Amazon) or just putting a tiny spot of solder on a smaller tip & touching the back of the cup terminal, not the wire seated with paste & ready to go.

Even better is to take a really thin piece of wire a doing a few small twists around a wire with solder paste seated in the cup terminal so it doesn’t move as you heat the paste. Requires a bit of finger dexterity or small pliers/forceps.

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Worth noting the hangers you have are an “old” generation. Newer gens have a different shape that has less motor interference. (at least for Flipsky 6384)
Nice build!

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And just to add to this, I also moved my trucks closer to ends of deck by drilling new holes. If trucks are kept in original truck holes then bite is worse. But you’re putting more strain on drop part of deck too so fibreglassing it higher recommended.

@marketthrowaway thanks for the extra soldering tips.

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This build has gone a completely different way and will now be my backup race build. Going to get serious and do another build to suit the track even more.

So this is what ive ended up with:



Swapped drivetrain to belts with older version Radium Performance mounts and 190kv Flipsky 6384s. Just upgraded dv6 pro to new 5.3 custom firmware and pushing 120 motor amps per side now. Still very quick!!

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Nice build, awesome. What tires are you using for those hubs?

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Thanks. They are 7 inch evolve tyres. With sretched rims they are more like 170mm though

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Nice build! Since your loopkey location is at the side, i suggest doing one with this case, so it doesn’t stick out so much.

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Or this is even gooder.

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OH YEA, that one. I’m going to be doing this for Bill’s board next, low profile loop keys are dank.

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