In your left drawing, if any one of those solder joints fails, the cell it was connected to will be dropped out of the circuit. In the right drawing, after you place that nickel across the center, the pack will continue to work if one of the wires breaks. The two wires are therefore redundant.
Making the wiring symmetrical also reduces hotspots, for example on the left drawing there might be 10 amps going through the wire on its left side and 40 amps going through the wire on its right side, so the right side will heat up faster.
It also means that the current from the individual cell on the left side has to go all the way around that U turn before getting to the next cell on the left side. Minimizing the total length of the path that the current has to take is another benefit of the wire arrangement in the right side drawing.
These are definitely questions you should ask on the battery builder’s club thread, you’ll get people who know a lot more about it than me.
What kinda amps can pull with a set up like this
14awg wire and 30mm x .2mm nickel bent.
I think I’m just going to by new nickel I hate wasting money but I do like, not burning down my house more.
If not I am going to die(not literally). IT was on sale and I was going to get it but then I deiced to make an esk8 and now I’m broke and still don’t have a working board. I’m not gonna give up though. It has been very stressful balancing this and collage work . But when I finally ride it, it is going to the best feeling in the world.
18650, or 21700? the duck seems to be out of stock on straight 30mm nickel, but has 18650 premade 4p tabs. if its 21700’s, though, looks like hes only got 8p tabs. you could cut them, i guess, but itd be a bit of a waste cash wise. DIY Supply – Duck Battery Systems
actually its a pack of 25 tabs for like 20 bucks. i say get a pack and cut em down to 4p size.
nice! as for the bustin, “better” is subjective. i for one do not like hub motors at all. i think its a bad design, but some people like em. hubs<direct drive<belts<gears imo, but that might start a hot debate. what esc are you using? personally id rather have my own build over any prebuilt.
You’ll easily max out any cell you use. For the 4p p42a with that setup, you can likely pull close to 100 amps continuous. There’s no situation where you’ll get close.
The bustin has 300 something Wh of 30q cells, you’ll be able to deliver almost twice the power with 500Wh of P42a. If you’re using belt or gear motors instead of hubs you’ll have more torque too. So your board will beat the bustin at these on-paper specs of range and power
I am using a flipsky 6.7 mini I have a heat sink I plan on attaching it to, to hopefully allow some decent amps. I really do not want to over heat it. because i have no way to replace it.
I hope you are right.
Just to be safe though I am going to start at 25 amp and slowly raise by 5 to 10 amps each time. its going to be a pain because I don’t have a Bluetooth receiver so I will have to open and close my enclosure a bunch. An esk8er got to do what and esk8er got to do.
