LCSC has them in stock, but 1.8 vs 2.5mohms may not make a big difference.
I’m still thinking adding a second set of mosfets would be the best bang for the buck cooling wise. Would just need is own gate resistor added before the current gate resistor. This assumes the gate drivers have enough current for the job… but seems worth the experiment
TI-driving-parallel-mosfets.pdf (655.7 KB)
Thanks for the link mate 
Yeah it’s not much more… still 30% win 
The issue with dual fets is the 90 degree positioning of the second rail… this suck a lot and there is not much other way to assemble them… we should make a petitiion for " mosfet prinverted pining" production 
I finally got an answer from Afzal. could help me to start Debugging the PAS drama ( I can use printfs now… that really sweet)… but except to see that I plugged everything correctly and the port do get 0-1 when turning the sensor… well… nothing else works. 
and thanks for the pdf, thats pretty cool, 75-200 may come earlier as originally planned X-))
I was using these MOSFETs on my Flipsky 75100 and they are great, I can recommend them a lot! Much better than stock MOSFETs on the regular Flipsky 75100, but from spec not as good as the Aluminium PCB, but due to the TO220 design which can easily be mounted directly to heatsinks you can reach much better temps.
ah… it was you 
Thanks for sharing this. And yeah, I will use the aluminum frame and copper link. this should work just fine. aaaaaaaand now that PAS is working. I can soon test it correctly :))))
Hey mate:
got that thing working
I used the m365 dash from 1zuna + a xiaomi m365 dash to control everything (it’s really sweet)
PAS works now like it should be here in germany:
6kmh limit with throttle only + 25kmh with cadence pas
OR
6kmh limit with throttle + 25kmh with PAS active at 0% power & control from power with throttle.
and three level of power/speed whatever to be selected from display.
thats pretty awesome now just have to wait for my mosfets to pull a bit of amps
Good to hear!
The dash sounds like it works pretty well.
If you wanted to take it a step further, I’d also suggest looking into the metr module. The VESC app has some really limited profile support, but the metr app you can create profiles that can change every setting in the VESC.
Basically it means you can swipe on your phone for a “street legal” mode, then have another profile where it’s like a “power mode” when no one is looking
Haha, I currently don’t have a nrf connected right now X-))
I will make this later. I needed a fully legal setup to test first. and germans are pretty weird with this.
you can do the speed settings actually too with the vesc apk. simply connect, change max speed and hop… you are full… when you respawn the system or change it on the dash, it takes the lead and write legal settings again :)))
the trick was to be able to have a nice simple “one button” display (battery, power level,speed) change the max speed under PAS status…
I have the white pcb version and the blue pcb version. Can i run them both for a dual hub setup? Assuming both have same firmwsre version
Yes, no problems running a canbus link between different vesc models. They just need to be on the same firmware version (ie 5.3)
i use flipsky 75100V202 and uptated the firmware 6.0b56. i succesfully upgrade the firmware, but after i connect it with vesctool 4.0t9, there is prompt that say couldnt deserialize motor configuration. what is the problem and how i can fix it ?
i wanted to upgrade it because i want to test the silent hfi method
thanks
Hi, i’m running the official 75300 V2 firmware on the FSESC with Alu PCB (2pcs), however i seem to get less performance than expected @ 120 phase amps and 38 battery amps, the battery & vesc inputs don’t drop that much, and for some reason these 1200W motors top at 1300W a piece while my Duty cycle doesn’t ever go above 70%, i’ve checked everything in the vesc tool but i noticed the vref etc is different in your custom firmware, maybe that also will fix some of the other stuff like less power than expected (off FOC parameters)?
Also noticed that BLDC mode just wont work at all, only FOC mode works
Do you think the custom firmware could fix the issues i’ve got?
I think i had more acceleration out of the 2 JP 28A (28 battery amps) controllers that came stock in my scooter
The custom firmware certainly can’t hurt. It’s the same 5.3 firmware as the main branch, just configured properly for that hardware unlike Flipsky’s 75_300_R2 firmware used as a work around.
Are the connected using CANBUS?
Those silver box ebike controllers I don’t believe limit phase current, or if they do it’s very high. That’s going to give some very punchy acceleration from 0-5mph. Where the VESC will really shine is in the mid and top range performance since you can up the battery current to 100A on each controller if your battery could support it. 120A phase current on two motors should feel very powerful though.
If you are running the default firmware I’d make sure phase filters are off before running the motor config, then make sure not to reset defaults. Use the 2kg outrunner setting to detect the hub motors in the scooter. It seems counter-intuitive but it seems to yield better detection results than the hub settings.
If using the custom firmware the phase filters are disabled so that setting no longer matters. It should get over 70% duty, and if not then it’s most likely bad motor detection results or phase filters being active, but it could be a lack of power from the lowish battery amps… but that’s doubtful. You could confirm with some logging to see if you are hitting the battery amp limit at 70% duty. Also make sure you aren’t using any erpm or duty cycle limits.
Let us know how it goes with the custom firmware and the 2kg outrunner detection!
Thank you for the info, i’ve indeed used hub motor detection and the minimum read temp is around 31°C and i’ve read somewhere else that that is an issue with official firmware
The FSESC’s are connected through can, in my logs i currently get 185-187 phase A peaks (both together), so i guess it is a combination of the firmware and wrong detection, i’ll first flash your firmware and try the different detection! thanks for the info aswell!
uh to add on that (i see no edit button) i’ve read about phase filters before even starting to try anything with the FSESC’s, so i had it off before anything else ;), once again thanks!
I think you’re going to notice a huge difference with the 75/100 vs the stock ESC.
I have a ex rental single motor scooter which hauls ass now using a VESC.
If I was you I would set Motor current to 100A. Set Max motor current to 120A. Raise battery current significantly to at or just below motor amps. I would set yours to 100A. Your motor and battery will be just fine at these settings. Remember, your not going to be at max current all the time.
If you really want your mind blown then set Field weaken to something like 35-40A. Gonna have a smile on your face.
Let us know how it works out.
Them 28A battery current JP controllers actually do like 90 phase amps, i’ve had it set up before with the VESC’s but the acceleration didn’t seem super impressive, albeit smooth tho, the original controllers were simply full acceleration all time till it reached target speed (i’m on an Obarter X3, 2x 1200W 48V scooter)
I’ll let y’all know in a few hours (when i need to get to work) wether the firmware and some other things i’ve noticed fixed my problems.
BTW still going to be running 38A max per ESC as my battery has a 90A peak overcurrent protection BMS and it is NOT bypassed, but it was just strange it was off, albeit i figured out some issues, for some reason i had an Ld-Lq value on a damn outrunner? uh well… that might explain something 
, also with Jaykups firmware the temp reading is fixed, it wouldn’t go under 31°C with VESC official firmware, and my new measurements are probly gonna help quite a bit aswell
120A motor peak should be fine on these gigantic hubs (11" 4" wide tires)
what can i say, amazing difference, proper temperature reading etc, except i broke atleast one controller 1h in the ride, like i went full throttle very fast and i’m sure it blew a fet or something, still managed to get home on it lmao
I have no clue what’s wrong, i went full throttle from standstill, from 0 speed, thats when it went wrong, when i use adc2 brake i get no cogging on either motor, and it doesn’t seem to really cog on acceleration either except it’s really slow and it cuts out
Glad to hear it worked for a bit!
If the regen is still working, and the controller turns on I don’t think a fet is blown. Usually that causes the controller not to turn on, or it won’t drive the motor at all.
I’d lean more towards the phase windings, phase connections, BMS or something in the input. You could try swapping controllers to see if the problem follows the controller or the motor, or measuring inductance on the motor to see if all the phases are the same.
To check for a blown fet you can measure the resistance between the phases of the controller with the motor disconnected and see if they all match. I don’t know what the values for that controller are, but probably somewhere around 60-150kohms would be a normal value.
I’d also consider bypassing the BMS for discharge, but leave it in the charge circuit.
Yeah bms bypass is defo one of the routes i’ve thought about, especially when i’m gonna diy a pack with 21700s
but that might be for a later day, for now i get no cogging or anything but i feel brake all round the motors so i doubt that phases are an issue, but who knows really until it’s measured
regen is hard to check if it works on BOTH controllers separately as i can’t just leave one out, one controller works as the UART receiver and front motor controller, the other one is connected through CAN and has the adc inputs, but i’ll try some stuff either way
I’ve noticed a sort of audible switching noise which normally wouldn’t be there since it happened, and it increases and decreases with the throttle amount, even though the rpm is limited that still happens