Hi, i bought one of these controllers, and i would like to thank you a lot for the work you did, i installed it on my scooter and managed to configure the motor for now, i also updated the firmware and it went flawlessly.
Many thanks.
1 Like
is this version compatible with new flat aluminium PCB 75100? did anyone try?
I have disassembled the ESC, but it doesn’t seem to have version written anywhere on the PCB on the front side - I don’t want to disassemble heatsink side, as they used thermal paste to from MOSFETs to back plate. Also, it uses 2 PCBs now - top one holds chipset with connectors and bottom side hosts all power components.
In the VESC tool, what does the current HW / firmware name show?
Can you see the shunt ohm values? Is it still low side shunts? If you had some PCB pics that would help too
here is youtube of teardown of new Flipsky Dual FSESC75100 Alu.PCB
3 Likes
The layout looks decent. The mosfet package looks like a HSOF-8 which gives me hope it will be a decent performer. I can’t tell exactly which model it is from the video, but the 100v Infineon version of that is only 2.6 mOhms with a very fast rise/fall time. They have the heat sink on the bottom side of the board, rather than the top of the mosfet case which will improve cooling a lot.
I hope the logic board can be pulled off the power board, otherwise having to desolder all those pins would make repairs will be a lot more difficult.
If the firmware that comes on it is 75_300_R2 then the V2 firmware I posted should work. It’s still using low side shunts, so it shouldn’t be using the 75_300_R2 firmware in the first place since that uses high side shunts.
Knowing the value/marking on this resistor would help to confirm.
5 Likes
I got my hands on the aluminum single PCB version that my friend is going to use on his eBike. Some good news, some areas for improvement.
The 75_100_v2 firmware will work better than the 75_300_R2 that it ships with
The stock firmware is limited to 72v, and has a bunch of hardware configs that don’t match the actual hardware (phase filters, phase shunts, etc). The custom firmware can go up to 120v, but not recommended to go over 96v.
Design issues
- Capacitors still not siliconed down
- Logic board soldered to the power board. Cannot be removed without desoldering about 24 pins.
- Thermal paste between the board and heatsink instead of a silicone pad makes disassembly a pain.
- Wire exits have no grommets. Twice I’ve seen phase wires split their insulation open where it meets the aluminum case on similar designs and short out the MCU.
Wire exits on the new version
Interesting design features
- Mosfets have some really nice specs compared to the older model. They are also surface mount rather than TO-220
** New - HUAYI HYG015N10NS1TA - HSOF-8, 100V, 380A, 1.2 mΩ
** V201/V202 - MDP10N027 - TO-220, 100v, 120A, 2.5 mΩ - All the components are on one side of the board. Probably as a cost saving measure, but cooling the board below the mosfets instead of on top should improve thermal performance quite a bit.
- Wiring for the UART/PWM/etc are included and easily removeable without disassembly, unlike the V1 and V2.
It comes with 75_300_R2 5.2 stock.
I ran the motor detection twice using an 80-80 160kv motor for a few firmware options. Interesting results. This motor normally detects at about 88A / 10 mΩ on most ESCs. The new version using the custom firmware detects the closest, and the 75_300 firmware is a bit off.
I ran an 80A thermal throttle test on the bench using “foc_openloop 80 1000”. With stock settings (85C), the VESC firmware starts reducing current at 77.5C.
REALLY impressive thermal performance. The 12AWG wires got hotter than the case. Even beats a Trampa VESC 6 with 60V direct fets by a large margin… and highlights just how poor the thermal performance of the old version is.
9 Likes
@jaykup I have the original 75100 the thicker aluminium enclosure. Do I need from open up the enclosure to find out which firmware to use ? 75100V201 vs 75100V202
2 Likes
You can use firmware for 75100V201
The v201 came with “75_100”. The v202 came with “75_300_R2”
@jaykup thanks for your work. Let me know how we can support you. Literally doing a better job than Flipsky.
I was not able to run input wizard. As my throttle was not showing any movement all though it was working as expected when I viewed the logic analyzer.
I hope this 5.3firmware will work.
This firmware has all the right setting ie phase filtering off etc. So just plug and play?
Thx
1 Like
Haha thanks, they really do need to get their shit together.
Based on the error (old firmware) make sure it says 5.3 on the firmware tab. If it’s still at 5.2 then update the bootloader before uploading the custom firmware. Download the 5.3 “jaykup” firmware. The 5.2 on this post is just what I pulled from the unit. It’s not custom.
If the ADC input isn’t working after running the input wizard, try switching ADC1 or ADC2 on the comm port. They mislabeled that on some of the paperwork included with the ESCs.
Phase filter setting doesn’t affect motor detection with the custom firmware.
1 Like
Hello guys, I’m trying to use a Flipsky 75100.
At the beginning everything seemed to be working fine, I was able to detect the motor parameters, the hall sensors, and to spin the motor through the keyboard.
However, when I tried to apply some load (10/15 A), the VESC entered in a reboot mode! I read that it was regarding the 5v 1A BEC!
1 Like
I’ve had other VESCs reboot and throw a watchdog error when something shorts them, like phase wires touching each other or the ground. Also if something shorts on the 3v or 5v side. I’d check all your connections first. You could put a volt meter on the 5v and 3.3v outputs when running the motor, but I doubt that’s the cause.
2 Likes
Hello jaykup,
so far the VESC 6.0 firmware is running good for me and a lot of other people.
But now I am onto something with the ESC current measurement, it seems that it is very off, at least for me. So I have been running into battery cut-outs with my new battery by triggering the over current protection of the BMS. The BMS is set to a maximum A of 75A, meanwhile the ESC was set to 53A. This configuration caused the BMS to trigger the over current protection and caused the Flipsky 75100 to fry the MOSFETs (which can be replaced but it is annoying).
In the first place I thought it might the BMS, but after doing testing on the accuracy of the current measurements I came across the fact that the “I Batt” measurements are very off compared to BMS and ampere meter.
Here are my notes:
Idle measurement from BMS:
Ampere meter (current usage): 34mA
Ampere meter with VESC in idle: ~60mA
Motor spin test:
VESC I (6.0 BETA with jaykup config): 220mA
VESC I (5.3 STOCK): 220mA
Ampere meter measurement: 870mA
Ampere meter measurement + Idle measurements: 930mA
BMS measurement: 930mA
As you can see, the VESC itself only measures 220mA with both stock firmware and your config. I am running a Flipsky 75100V202 with the 3 stacked shunts. The BMS seems to be 100% accurate. This means the VESC measurements is literally off by a factor of 3.95x. I did not do a full load test yet, but the result will be likely the same with higher numbers. Any idea on how to improve accuracy?
Interesting results for sure.
If you have the stacked shunt version, make sure you used the “hw_75_100_V2.h” source file when compiling the firmware… or check that it says “75_100_V2” on the firmware tab.
This is the relevant section on the hardware config (.h file) that changes how the shunt configuration is measured
#define CURRENT_SHUNT_RES (0.0005 / 3.0) // (jaykup) updated
That’s three 0.0005 ohm resistors in parallel for version 202. The version 201 is just 0.0005 ohms. I’d verify the value of those resistors just to make sure that setting matches.
If all else fails, you could also try to change it by a factor of 3.95 just for fun. It’s possible they used the wrong voltage divider resistors or the wrong current sense resistors…
1 Like
Yes, I am compiling the firmware based on the hw_75_100_V2.h
I will do a test ride (very soon) with BMS live data to check if this is not just irrelevant inaccuracy in the mA range, sadly no VESC BMS, but that should be alright to check if it is in the range of 1A ±
Maybe I am just hunting ghosts. 
1 Like
I have a vesc 75/100v201 and I would like to know if anyone knows which line of code to change to change the shunt, I want to increase the accuracy of my vesc by 10x, I would like to change to a shunt of r005, I got a firmware already changed, however she is for v202
sorry for my bad english, i use translator
After trying many things, it just occurred to me that the reboot problem could be related to the number of nickel strips in the battery! I’m not totally sure, but do you think that could be possible to have this kind of issues, if the controller wants to drain 30A and the battery is blocking it at 20A?
I had this problem. Frustrating for sure! Only occured when connected to VESC tool via USB. Once I switched to NRF Bluetooth it didn’t occur, Never occured during actual use.
Don’t think it’s related to nickel strips being too thin. You would need some serious voltage drop for anything like this to occur.
1 Like
Whoa! Awesome pics / opinions about the lasted SMD version of the 75/100
I totally agree about the lack of grommets. Relying on the anodizing for backup insulation is asking for problems. Personally I would try to slip some strips of kapton tape over the conductors for extra protection.
Thermal performance looks great. An area that the original v1 and v2 75/100 seriously lack without modifications. Personally, I prefer thermal paste over pads, I feel it has better performance. Messy yeah but nothing a little IPA won’t fix.
I’m still enjoying my 75/100v2 on the 13s6p ninebot max. Still blown away by the speed difference that field weakening brings! Took me a while to figure out the optimal settings, I’m close but Im still tweaking to this day. Not complaining, I actually love this aspect of the VESC FW. It gives you Incredible control to so many parameters.
I started having thermal issues during the hot summer days. Quickly reached 85c . I modified the crap case with a large finned heatsink bonded to the original on the FET side with thermal adhesive. I drilled out holes for access to the three screws which hold the internal heatsink to the case. Also replaced the original three Phillips machine screws with ones that have a wider hex bit head and are slightly longer. Able to get a significantly more torque with these screws vs the inferior originals. Much better thermals now.
1 Like
guys, you compiling this from master version? is it working fine? I had to rename hw_75_100_V2.h to hw_75_100.h cos it was complaining it was not finding hw_75_100_V2.c. is this expected?
thanks!