How to update firmware on the Flipsky 75100 & 75200 FOC ESC

thanks again, i finally got a ble module in, plugged it and and i could see it, but vesc app kept saying unrecognized firmware…

swapped rx/tx pins on ble module and i can now connect and talk to it. All this BS over a dead usb port…

1 Like

jaykup
Don’t know what I did wrong, but I followed the instructions you posted and looks like my flipsky is bricked after that. There are also .h and .c files that the instructions doesn’t say what to do with them. is there a way I can restore a bricked 75100?

Thanks in Advance

Can you describe what the ESC is doing and what steps you took to update it? The tool will show a serial I/O error after the firmware is uploaded, but that’s normal. Give it a few minutes and it will reconnect.

The .h and .c files are just the source code files for those who want to see the changes or compile the firmware themselves.

I’ll try to simplify the instructions on the main post, but the basic steps are to download a .bin firmware, rename it, connect through USB with the VESC tool, update the bootloader then upload the firmware.

@jaykup…thanks for quick reply.
Yeah , I did the steps you mentioned. Now the ESC is flashing between red and blue. I can’t find the trouble codes for the 75100 so I don’t know what’s going on. Based what is doing, I have assume is bricked. I can stablish connection with the ESC also try to the run detection routine, after a few seconds says the routine failed and keep flashing between red and blue, never turns green like it supposed to do when do in the run detection routine. If ESC is bricked there is a way to restore it?

1 Like

The good news is that it’s not bricked :slight_smile:

That usually refers to a device that is completely unresponsive, but it sounds like you can connect and configure it.

Can you open the side cover and look at the circuit board color? Make sure you downloaded the firmware version that matches the color.

After that, load the motor defaults and write, then load the app defaults and write. Disconnect everything but the USB, battery & phase wires and try to run a motor detection again.

You can type “faults” in the terminal of the VESC tool when the red light flashes to see exactly what the fault is.

Finally, make sure phase filters is turned off. I think it’s in the Motor → FOC → Filters tab

@jaykup
Thanks again for the quick reply.
Alright…I take the good news. That’s probably what I did wrong, didn’t match the firmware with the circuit board. I’ll try that later.

1 Like

I sorta disappeared from here for a while but I definitely haven’t stopped using the 75/100 FOC V2.
I have to say, it just keeps getting better for my application( a 13s Ninebot max e scooter)

Its taken me a while but I now have it tuned to perfection. It hauls ass! Seriously, 40mph without a hill using field weakening, more with a hill, it’s actually crazy fast but controllable. I’m getting peaks of almost 3kw.

The V2 version has held up with much more abuse then I gave the V1 version. It appears very solid. I was new to VESC with the V1 version so maybe that explains the problems I had but still,I’m pushing ALOT more power through the V2 version with no problems whatsoever.

I have logs to prove all of this but not in any format that I see used here. Using a NRF module and VESC tool with an iPhone. My logs are only visible after downloading and importing files from my phone to my VESC tool on my PC. Any suggestions as to a better way to share logs?

Hello Guys,
I have a problem with my fsesc 75100. Mainly the problem is that the current is heavily pulsing or oscillating (see here: -cant include youtube link-). Firstly I tried it with 5.3 firmware but forgot to turn off phase filter (did I blew something??, if yes what?) than stock 5.2 firmware. Both firmware versions showed the same result. Motor detection runs fine and spins the motor smoothly. I changed a few foc parameters like O.G. but couldn’t affect the current behavior at all. (Is there a certain parameter that I could try changing?). What could be the cause for this? (bad wiring, blown esc or wrong foc parameters?)

Hey I missed this at the time but that looks very risky IMO! The original design is already quite questionable because it uses the legs of the mosfets as mechanical support; the mosfets are bolted to the heatsink but the board is only half supported in there so the weight of the board kind of hangs on the legs of the mosfets. This one is even more so, because the board is completely unsupported. I know the board isn’t incredibly heavy, but those legs are not at all designed to be load bearing and especially not in a very high vibration environment where they flex back and forward at every vibration

For reference, serious designers would be very upset if an individual capacitor of smaller size than those ones was allowed to freely stand vertically without attaching it with silicone to something stable like a heatsink that’s screwed down or the chassis. Allowing those mosfets to free stand wouldn’t fly at all normally even with zero weight on them, never mind an entire board with big caps

1 Like

i get what you are saying but there really isn’t much difference, the only real differance is mine is not in a case, its bolted up to the homemade HS in the same way. if i remember correctly when i opened the case it was kind of just suspended there too with no support.

so far the trike has about 500 niles on it and nothing has shifted or failed, thats not to say it wont happen 2 mins in on my next ride but so far so good.

i do agree with all your points.

yeah the main difference is that the board in the original enclosure is sitting in slots in the aluminium, and capped at both ends. There’s still a small amount of play in there and it’s not bolted down (in mine I 3D printed braces for the capacitors and the PCB and siliconed it in place to remove this) whereas in the open air situation the whole board can swing from the mosfets and the capacitors can swing from the board. I know yours hasn’t failed yet but the difference between bad support and none at all really is fairly big

what would you suggest i should do to make it more stable (other than return it to the OG case)?

got any pics of your set up?

yeah I was trying to think of what to do about it. You could dremel out the original case so that your current connection to the heatsink is still there but the rest of it still exists, and silicone it down? The alternative is trying to make another enclosure with 3d printing or CNC and that’s a much much bigger job

I thought I had posted full pictures somewhere but this is all I can find at the moment

now i understand your support thing, i dont ever visit that thread, i dont have a printer.

what if i just pumped it up with silicone, i threw the case away a while ago. that sounds like it would be my best bet.

pumped what with silicone sorry?

1 Like

like stuck the head of the silicone bottle down in all the cracks of everything and squeezed it to hold everything in place

this is bordering on out of my knowledge, but silicone is very useful for damping and as a light duty adhesive; if you have two components standing side by side that can support their own weight and you’re just trying to stop them vibrating or wobbling then silicone is ideal, as in A below (side to side arrow is vibrational force). But in B it’s not enough. B.1 is arguably almost ok, the side to side vibration of the capacitor relative to the board can probably be managed but the gravity pulling the capacitor down (blue arrow down) is a lot. In B.2 it’s not enough, the weight of the board is a big lever pulling down from that point to bend the mosfet legs and strain the connection to the heatsink, and the only thing resisting that is the silicone

I’d welcome any people with more PCB or device design experience tbh, paging @DerelictRobot and @Battery_Mooch

2 Likes

Agreed, any vibration or movement just results in metal fatigue and/or breaking of seals or the fracturing of the black epoxy case of a component. You want the component locked to the pcb (silicone in the right place and quantity can definitely do this) and then to minimize the vibration/impact the entire PCB experiences.

2 Likes

My friends ebike that spawned this whole firmware creation thread has been completely rebuilt and we took it on a test run last weekend.

  • 2x 20s4p P26A custom packs inside a Hailong G80 case with LLT BMS
  • Leaf Motor 9x7T direct drive hub on a 27.5 inch wheel. Top speed of about 33mph fully charged.
  • 75100 V1 ESC running 5.3 hacked firmware.

Set the ESC to 100 battery, 100 motor amps, but never got over 77 amps on the motor. I think the phase wire are too long and small (12-13 gauge or 3mm2) to get the full 100 amps. Would like to switch to 10awg silicone at least.

The bike had a fairly heavy load. He was pulling a trailer with his 6 year old in it, had several batteries in the tail bag for spares for other bikes on the ride, and is a fairly big guy. Batteries were only charged to 80%. We swapped batteries at the mid point.

Overall performance was pretty good. Unloaded it accelerates a bit slower than my skateboard (12s4p 30Q single 6374 motor with a Trampa V6 on 90mm thanes with tall 16/36 gearing set to 80A battery, and 80A motor) but has nice power delivery and keeps pulling well to top speed.

The ESC touched 80C a few times, but no noticeable thermal throttling. Field weakening was not active. Was about 60 degrees out. We are thinking of moving the ESC to the front of the bike to get some air flow over it and cool it down.

Curious to see if it will keep working through the season. The temperature sensor just sits on the aluminum bar that the mosfets are attached to, so I think the mosfet temp reading would be somewhat delayed. I guess as long as the temperature doesn’t rise too quickly, it should be able to thermal throttle in time to prevent a failure. I still think cooling is the most important problem to solve with this ESC.

3 Likes

Thanks for that post!

I agree…hugely delayed IMHO and significantly below the actual MOSFET temp. Especially if a thermistor is being used. They already have a delay (response time) of about a minute and their shape makes it hard to thermally couple them well to anything flat, leading to low temp readings.

1 Like