From what I understood the motor creates a back EMF voltage that can exceed the breakdown voltage of the components of the ESC. Since its not a closed circuit it shouldn’t really generate any current. Therefore if you are slowly pushing the board, its okay to keep it plugged in. I’d rather leave the loop key if pushing with the motors still in so the small amount of power that might be generated can dissipate into the battery.
Personally I keep a skate tool with me (its a 3d printed pendant with a 9/16" for fixing the kingpin and 1/2" for removing the wheels) so I can pop the belts off (doesn’t do any good with gear drives, enclosed belt drives, chain drives, direct drives, or hub motors…although the hubs and direct drives usually back drive pretty easily)
Someone explain this concept to me - assuming that the ESC/VESC fails how are you braking at this point? My understanding is that if the motor control dies (battery, BMS[discharge], ESC/VESC, or motors themselves) you have no other possible option to stop beside a mechanical brake, which as I understand no one has done that has been adopted as a standard feature.
Gotcha, so the “RC approach” for a run away vehicle makes sense in theory.
I’ve been dragging my feet trying to design a possible MTB gear-drive with remote integration and manual override for a physical brake. But most of the possible options aren’t great so I keep hitting walls of theory and practicality that stop progression.
Not totally accurate, at least for GT2B remotes (the only ones I own) : you have to choose what is applied when there is a disconnection. My failsafe is set on neutral as unexpected brakings lead to fall most of the time I prefer freeroll in this case
Edit : I’m interested to know if we can set the behaviour on others remotes as well or not (hope we can).
Now that i’m reading this i realized i don’t have a failsafe. If my remote dies the board just freerolls. I once got on my board and started rolling, wanted to break i realized i didn’t turn the remote on.