Fsesc shrink wrap removed please help

Someone sold me their diy and it has a fsesc 6.6plus and they removed the protective plastic shrink… can anyone tell me where to get replacment shrink wrap for it? Iv tried to ask flipsky they wont help and i cant find anything close online.

amazon, aliexpress… any shrink wrap will do. it’s not really necessary and actually interferes with thermals.

I’ve taken the heat shrink off of both of my FSESC Dual mini 6.6 boards

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https://www.google.com/search?q=transparent+heatshrink&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=APq-WBtp01tivJEE1ETf1H-NqJt9133xHA%3A1651062089934&ved=0ahUKEwitnf3KnbT3AhW34jgGHZhiDLwQ4dUDCA0&uact=5&oq=transparent+heatshrink&sclient=gws-wiz

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Is their a specific king or brand which is good?

no, as long as it shrink under heat

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Why do you want it? It’s actually detrimental to the ESCs performance.

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To prevent shorts. May never happen but as someone who does alot of wiring in their career it would be like having a nic in a wire and not putting tape on it. Or striping a wire to much so it has wire exposed out side the wire nut. Its just not acceptable or professional to have potential shorts exsposed even though nothing will probably happen. The guy who i bought this diy from is a nice guy but he didnt know what he was doing.

seems like he at least knew a bit if he built it. as long as you don’t have anything that can short the points it’s perfectly fine outside of heat shrink, in fact better as it can breathe. if you’re really concerned put a strip of fishpaper or kapton tape over the exposed side so the heatsink can be in the air.

yeah i mean im not trying to be a snobe or anything (im a noob) just makes me feel bettering when things arnt exsposed. I do boilers and hvac systems for a living and this board just reminded me a sloppy hacked in AC unit… some of the other things he did with the board just makes me cringe. not clean. xt90s are melted where he soldered. he grinded notched into the trampa deck for lights and they look like hell. the trampa battery box was just bolted to the board without anything inbetween. which might be fine if your using one of those nicely padded cases but this was a trampa monster box. it was a 12s9p battery jammed into the box to the point the panels wernt seeding together. The battery was dangerous and not well put together. bad spacing on the gear drives. the board has a water proof esc enclosure from 3dservisas, he took out the romexs for the sensor wires becuase he could not get them through the romex and didnt seal up the holes at all, guess its not water proof now. put nuts on the the bottom of the board instead of reeming out the hole to put a bolt flush to the board. Its a learning process i get it. he was acting like he was a seasoned diy builder and says he builds boards and batteries for people. He might be but its just not up to my standards in my eyes. could be fine for someone else. sorry had to vent lol.

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You basically HAVE to remove the shrink on the flipskys I have. There is no way to access the UART, CAN, USB, etc. otherwise. I suppose you could try to precisely cut holes in it for the specific things you need, but that is a pretty bad solution.

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I dont think id buy a flipsky esc when there are other options out there which to me seem like more of a complete product.

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a flipsky vesc is just as good as any other vesc as long as it works. the advertised current limits are a bit exaggerated but the units normally function just fine if you’re conservative in settings. they’re also more affordable and more readily available than some other VESCs on the market ( like Lacroix)

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On the 6.6 plus I think there is an aluminum case option for only $10 more that makes it pretty reasonably complete. For the rest, I don’t really see an issue if you have a 3d printer and can print a little case. I plan on leaning toward maker-x for budget-ish stuff in the future though.

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+1 for MakerX, their stuff is good at the current ratings they advertise and they ship by air to avoid delays.

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