Frankendick - The Second Cumming - Complete!

Righto cocks. After my hissy fit and selling all of my shit, I have regrets.

But fear not, there will be redemption. I didn’t sell ALL of my shit, and i’m hoping that over the next few months that I can piece together enough shit to make a shit build.

Frankendick the First kindly donated itself to my daughter’s Exway X1 and is now in a weird limbo where it’s not quite mine but not quite hers… I digress. This is about Frankendick the Second.

Like it’s predecessor, V2 will be based off a Bustin Ibach. This is a later model than the one I used for the OG Frankendick, and the concave is dreamy. Big tub concave, very slight W with a radial drop :drooling_face::drooling_face::drooling_face: it’s only a 39 but i’ve been told it’s the way I use it that counts.

I’ll update here when I can be fucked, i feel its much easier to do a running build thread than trying to cobble one together after the fact. Here we goooooo!

Tonight’s adventure’s will include removing the grip and filling in the drop throughs!

32 Likes

Welcome back bitch, time to redeem urself

2 Likes

the ReDicker!

1 Like

Degripping was easy! Tiny bit of heat gun action and some good old fashioned tugging got it all off with no residue left over, definitely a bonus.

The intention is to pour epoxy into the drop through cutout to completely fill it. The deck will be skinned with fibreglass on both sides as well, so that should really tie the whole dropthrough into the deck.

Need to get rid of the paint on the inside of the cutout for a good bond.

Got rid of the paint no stress with a file with a rounded back (i don’t know its name and i’m ashamed :rofl:).

I decided to bevel/round over the edges as well, to really lock the resin fill into place.

Cleaned up the filed edges with some acetone on a rag, ready for masking and fill.

Gonna be a real shame to sand off that graphic, but violence must be done.

Used some big kapton to seal the bottom of the deck to hopefully contain the extremely hot thermal reaction that is about to take place…

If you don’t have big kapton, get big kapton.

You can really see the aggressive concave of the deck here, and the radial drops. It makes me sweaty :hot_face:

A glorious happy accident happened when i poured the resin. As I poured it into the big cutout, it found it’s way into the bolt holes as well and filled them from below. This is ideal, as I am pretty much guaranteed that they are totally full of resin with no air bubbles.

I moved it to the floor because it was easier to level it properly. Its been a good half hour and the leftover resin in the bowl is kicking, so I assume the deck is kicking as well… and no leaks!!!

Yet…

17 Likes

You should use carpet instead of grip tape to better suit your barefoot shenanigans

7 Likes

Gorilla tape resists epoxy seepage pretty well in my experience, if you ever decide that you need it :+1:

4 Likes

New title opportunity here team :joy: @longhairedboy

Great to see the rebirth of frankendick Al :call_me_hand:

5 Likes

Such a drama queen Albert.

8 Likes

Wait you sold all the stuff low so you could buy high figuratively?

mandatory dong remote (if this build is for you)

2 Likes

Or the rubber they use on surfboards now that’d be lit

1 Like

This would probably be the easiest option for blood cleanup

2 Likes




She got pretty hot :sweat_smile:

Not ideal but not the end of the world. Will mix up a little more resin and try get it in with a syringe.

6 Likes

Is that cracking due to the depth of the pour or what caused it to happen?

2 Likes

Yeah the depth. Just using laminating epoxy so it’s not really made for deep pours. As a result it gets too hot, too quickly and bad things happen.

I did expect that something like this might happen. A smarter version of me would have done this in multiple smaller pours, and maybe even added reinforcement.

5 Likes

This worked well for me. No issues with 2 pours.
Rounding the faces is a good idea. It should also help blending the joint while sanding.
One thing I’ve been doing to promote adhesion at the joint is to key in the walls with a paintbrush before pouring.

8 Likes

Maybe add some chopped glass to help with the mass and cracking :thinking:

5 Likes

Came here to ask why you didn’t add in any fiberglass before doing my own, but now I know you didn’t have a reason for it. :rofl:

I’m working with the same shape but with the front cut out.

I plan to use fiber glass and I’ll be adding in all the cured bits of epoxy that were left over in the mixing cup just to reduce the volume of epoxy needed and to help reduce waste.

Your board looks to be the shame shape at the ends to where you could still use normal bottom mounting. Is there any reason why you wanted to fill it in? I’m doing it because I want the grip tape to be nice and flat but I’m curious if there is a non aesthetic reason to do it. :thinking:

3 Likes

Mainly doing it for added strength. Plus there is no need for the drop through so I don’t want it there :rofl:

I actually had some chopped and ready to put in, and I was considering doing it in 2-3 pours but i’m just lazy/impatient sometimes. Plus I was curious if it would crack.

I did the same thing to a damaged demonseed once. It worked out really well in the end, but I did have some leaky adventures :rofl:

I am slightly worried about strength for the front but that is just because I want to use my bracket extension in what I’d normally call the wrong direction but it looks better that way. :sweat_smile: Still need to decide what to do with it but the back end I want to fill for sure

The cuts in the area are really clean and at 90 degrees so I have no idea if they were added later on or if the deck was just sold that way.

I’m going to split mine into only two pours, but that is because I’ve done a pour with this same epoxy that was a bit thicker than half the deck’s thickness so I know it won’t crack.

Why did I not consider that until now… I was thinking I just need to put in the fiber glass and pour it in :person_facepalming: I do have a cheap way to make a form/ block it off but I wasn’t even thinking about that when planning out the best way to do it.

1 Like

I’ve been neglecting this build, i have been busy getting life shit together. But the shit is togetherish now so it’s time.

Sanded back the overfill on the top of the deck, went reasonably well, perhaps even a little better than expected. Proceeded to sand the rest.

Now typically I would just make an enclosure at this point before doing any more work to the deck, but after following and drooling over @MatteoFPV 's build thread, I’ve decided to shamelessly plagiarise his build.

So the plan is as follows:

  1. Take a female mold of the surface of the deck
  2. Cut a big fuckin hole through the deck
  3. Construct a structural ‘tray’ beneath the deck
  4. Use the female mold from step 1 to make a lid.

I created a flange around the deck so that my female mold will also have a respectable flange. Bed time now, will glass tomorrow night :partying_face:

16 Likes