As @Skunk once told me - welcome to the moneypit that is esk8
5 Likes
I’m in the same boat. One single motor spins while at ~0.08amps. Also noticed one motor would be much warmer than the other after joy rides. Motor and wheel were on tighter than the other.
I’ve had my Tenka working fine but not flawlessly for ~800 miles but plan to change it due to public perception an to gain a bit of torque.
That 60D is much better tho
1 Like
That one I was actually on Cloudwheels! Switched to pneumatics at the point that I got the DKP trucks.
I actually did pick up some of that black gasket silicone a while back, I’ll probably epoxy it on the inside and fill the outside gaps with that.
Yeah naming it something based on fire seems like bad juju…
I was originally gonna name it something akin to the ship of Theseus but I saw that build thread posted not long ago haha. Another name for that sort of thing is the Old man’s Axe, so maybe something akin to that? Not fully settled on that theme but we’ll see.
Sadly I haven’t watched much Monty Python but that does give me some ideas around the ideas of something unkillable. Dark Souls or something of the sort maybe.
3 Likes
Cram it in and tighten down the enclosure hoping to never have to open it again.
Welcome aboard. I still can’t find shit for information on the forum except a lot of old grudges I don’t care to understand and drawings of dicks, but its home now. Sort of like if everyday was Thanksgiving with far too many drunk uncles. And we all build/ride small vehicles designed to kill us. Home.
5 Likes
I read a cool post-humanist take on it called “the soldier who replaced himself.” Kept losing more and more biology and replacing it with tech, down to his brain. At what point, if any, is he no longer the same entity?
That said, I do think you should name it Stein. It was dead before the lightning.
1 Like
Individual wires? Not necessary in my opinion. If you have enough room for things to rattle, stuff it with closed cell foam. See How rattle free is your board and how you achieved that?
It is important that any connectors are physically locked together, either with a zip tie, a very snug fit, an actual locking connector, or taped together.
I can’t tell everything from your photos, but a few common bits of advice / pitfalls:
- Use max strength Velcro to secure Bluetooth modules / vesc / dongles / battery to the enclosure
- Get a couple sizes of clear heat shrink to encase those dongles in against any water
- Optional, but not a bad idea to brush exposed PCBs with conformal coating for additional water resistance
- Make sure you have a fuse on one of your charge port wires - cheap and effective insurance
- Not recommended to fuse your main battery leads
- Add neutral cure silicone to jst connectors to ensure crimps stay put over time and against vibration
- Heat shrink all soldered connections with adhesive lined shrink (and make good soldered connections in the first place. There’s a thread on technique and tools)
- No live wires/connectors exposed - that means motor phase bullets get covered in something after connected
- Seriously consider aggressive water resistance measures (there are multiple threads) - butyl tape as a seal between enclosure and deck, enclosure mounting holes OUTSIDE butyl tape seal, seal wire exits by using connectors/epoxy/glands/printed plates
- Seal ALL holes in your enclosure with silicone (i.e. around the charge port connector)
- Pad around your battery with foam until it can’t move
- Use braided wire sleeves for your motor wires outside the enclosure so they don’t rub through on motor cans / trucks / wheels / etc (they make awesome rugged heat shrinkable braided sleeve)
- Loctite all fasteners (there’s a thread locker guide)
- Use alloy steel fasteners, ideally zinc plated. Don’t use stainless
Greyjoy or Ironborn? “What is dead may never die”
4 Likes
An update to this thread as it has been a while (Thanks @Nacho for reminding me):
- BN 270s installed with idler mounts. 15t/44t. Bushings are all 87.5A, running barrel/barrel front and chubby/barrel rear. Baseplates are at 30/50 if I’m not mistaken.
- Swapped motors to Flipsky BH 6364 because banggood had them for $50 per
- Got a puck for christmas (and printed/finished a shell for it)
- Got a Metr from @Evwan
*Added one of @tomiboi’s bindings for the front foot.
Haven’t been out on too many rides as I’ve been busy/ it froze here in Austin the weekend I wanted to ride but I did manage to go on a small ride on Sunday to finally test out the Metr/Puck/Binding.
Overall impressions are good on everything. I may need to add some grip tape to the puck as I might have made it a bit slippy. Metr is super cool and I’m glad I can finally properly log everything. Like the front binding but not feeling it is clamping down much atm. Thinking this is because I am only using the deck screws to test the location (which I did end up liking) and I just need to actually add the inserts/bolts to get everything secured.
Overall really happy with this board now. Obviously the battery could be better but I honestly don’t see myself changing it out unless absolutely necessary (If it’s not broken don’t fix it, etc. etc. ). Now I just need to take it on a real ride! Thinking I might do the Violet crown trail in south Austin. If only they allowed esk8s on the Veloway…
Pictures because what is an update without them (please excuse the incredibly messy desk):
4 Likes
That just means they’re used properly!
Nice build 
2 Likes
You call that messy? I scoff at your ocd organized desk ! Bwahahah!
The first step is acknowledging you have a problem, you are far ahead of me, I have made so so many bad choices,you look like a pro let’s just say if I added up all my bad choices I could pay 2 5000$ hookers to kick some sense in to me and have money leftover for a decent build . Hell you even built a working board, best I’ve done is repair mine, by replacing parts. Make sure you listen, take constructive criticism to heart,for what it is. This is a great place to learn and grow as a builder, they will also accept you if all you do is shit post gibberish, and pay someone to build you a board.
2 Likes
If thats an older mboards battery, you might want to rebuild it sometime in the future, as the older packs from this dude were incredible bad constructed. That may sound intimidating, but there are a lot of guides on the forum (and on YouTube aswell, @ShutterShock has at least two videos) on how to do that. You won’t even need to buy a welder, as there are a few people who lend theirs out either for free or for a small sum.
Just a suggestion though, you can also just buy a new pack, although that will cost a lot more. Feel free to ask me or in the battery builders thread generally on how to reconstruct a battery pack, if you ever decide to do it. 
2 Likes
Yep I’ve got a few videos, but I definitely encourage reading the battery thread, or at least part of it to get extra information
2 Likes
Tbh I don’t have the funds to get into battery building at the moment (not to mention it scares the shit out of me) so I’ll probably get one from someone on here eventually. Well aware of the issues with older mboards batteries and have tried to keep it as secure as possible in there, and specifically chose this deck due to no flex basically at all. This battery is from after they switched to a supplier in China but before they brought building in house (and honestly look to be making decent batteries at this point). So I don’t think it’s a fire hazard but it’s not ideal either. I sent them a huge email with feedback on their products early on when I was barely on the forum at all and I think it may have prompted them to change up their outlook on batteries. Don’t wanna take full credit for that or anything but it’s def good to see them go in a better direction after the feedback.
Buying a new battery is a wayyy in the future thing though because if I’m putting money towards anything it’s gonna be my emtb build. This one works great at the moment! Working on some CAD for a custom top mount enclosure and gonna spend a lot more time planning on this one 
.
2 Likes
Well you would keep the cells if you’d rebuild if, so you only expenses would be some nickel, tape and maybe an LLT bms for 20$, but I understand that it can be intimidating. If you follow the safety procedures its not that hard or dangerous though.
Will the top mount enclosure be 3d printed or are you designing a mold?
1 Like
Plan is to have a 3d printed wall and then the top/bottom are gonna be either plasma cut or cnc aluminum probably. Here are some rough pics that I took on my phone a while back:
I’ll upload some proper screenshots later today. The design also changed a little bit from these pics.
Plan is to use some of those rubber cooler straps to secure a battery to the top of the esc enclosure, we’ll see how well that works.
2 Likes
Highly recommend heat sink(s) if you’re going single enclosure for everything. I learned that the hard way, with my Hearo, DV6, and a 12s4p 21700
2 Likes
Not going single enclosure for everything, battery should be strapped to the top of the ESC enclosure, going to be designed in a similar fashion. Planning to use an aluminum plate on the bottom to bolt them to. If things end up getting too toasty then I was gonna possibly look Into getting the bottom CNC’ed with heatsinks integrated.
1 Like
Looks good, whats that on the left side in the last picture?
Weather resistant draw latch from McMaster, hoping that 4 of these should be able to keep the top box in place.
I like using McMaster parts because they already have 3D models of everything.
2 Likes
Are you sure that those will not pop out with vibrations? it will be a mtb after all.
2 Likes