still gotta finish the build thread for my hellhound build with them, they’ve held up great though, been using them mainly for racing but I run the same setup as a daily/group ride board and take it off little bumps and curbs all the time. It’s been really great to have a board this robust without compromising on the ride feel
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I use Radium antisink plate, new locknut and torqued them pretty tight. They still come loose overtime. This didn’t happened on my previous build. This is why I was so deadset on trying to get captive locknut cause mine keep coming loose.
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Small world, that is the road I did all my testing on to develop my Saab 99 EMS rally car for the SCCA California Rally series. We also did a lot of testing for our buggy and truck that we raced in the Baja 1000. That road really turned to shit after the rough winters we had way back then so it was a great testing ground for Baja!
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You should mark your bolt heads and your nuts to see which is rotating. You should also consider safety wire 
I’m prob gonna try using “heavy duty” nylock nut. If they don’t work then ima just double nut it.
Edit: Or maybe use some split washers or something.
Dont do that. These are worse than nothing at all. Seriously the worst form of thread locking device.
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Swap out my baseplate stainless steel hardwares to 10.9 grade bolts and whatever nut I got from Ace Hardware (it’s magnetic so I’m hoping it’s stronger than the stainless shit I was using 
). Also torque them down pretty tight from both sides.
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You picked a great spot for it. There are a lot of sections that we can’t get to but bringing a buggy out there would be wild. We’ve seen plenty of dirt bikers but never a buggy, bring it back out!
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All gone, that was a former life and I am up in Oregon now making Duality and other bushings. When I come back down, I will look you up!
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I’ve flattened a ~750Wh pack a dozen times on this thing since losing the front bushings, love it more every time I hop on.
Dinnye, I have not experienced wobble at all with my dualities, and no matter how sloppy the front truck gets on my other 2 channel truck boards, it never seems to matter in front.
Re dropping too much, I’m with you on that. I can feel that I’m lifting a bit of my own body weight to turn,at this height. Dropping more would only make steering harder.
FWIW, I rarely skated > 20mph unless T-racing etc. Now I find myself cruising at low-mid 20s on this board, bumping against bench speed occasionally, wanting to gear for more speed. Rather than feeling edgy because I’ve got less room for error, I feel more in control. As with any loose board, this feels best in transition, but even in a dead straight line, the drop/stretch more than makes up for the stability lost by running no front bushings. This says more about the effect of the drop than running no bushings.
I acknowledge that there are safer ways to increase liveliness of the front end to compensate for a stretch, but at least until I wreck because of it, I’m loving the bushing-free life.
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I recently switched from 93A krank tall chubby rear / 90A venom hpf front to 92.5A APS tall fatcone rear / 90A APS tall barrel front. It took some getting used to, but I really enjoyed the new ride feel. It reminded me of when I switched from channel trucks to dualities for the first time. It provides very effortless and flowy carves. I can get into a deep leaning carve really easily. Stock krank bushings already felt free from fighting the board during turns. APS increases that feeling even more. It’s much less effort to get to the lean stopper. Still felt stable at speed.
In terms of comparing tall chubby vs tall fatcone in the rear, it’s hard for me to comment since both shape and bushing formula were changed. But overall I think I prefer it because I felt like the tall chubby gave a little too much resistance/restriction. I was trying to fix this by adding 5° more in the rear to give more turn. But with the fatcone aps in the rear I feel the additional turn I was looking for.
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