Drivetrain Dilemma

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics Esk8 Mechanics
#1

I’ve been riding my DIY for about 400-500 miles at this point. I’ve been having repeated issues with my drivetrain. Right now I’ve got 6374 FlipSky montors, TB218 trucks, TB110 wheels, and the 3DServisas Fat Boy Nano gear drives. I love the wheels and the gear drives are great when they are working right. Working right being the operative term.

My main issue right now is that even after short (~7-8 mile) rides the gear drive mounting screws come loose. Both the screws pictured here as well as the grub screws that secure the press fit mount to the hanger seem to work loose no matter what I try.

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20191111_1928524032×3024 3.12 MB

I have tried Blue and Green thread lock. I’ve lost screws and I’ve stripped screws. I had an issue where (I think) because the mount was loose and had some play, when I went over a particularly large pothole the drive and wheel gears became unmeshed briefly which led to one of my wheel gear teeth getting deformed. I had to replace that gear. Keep in mind, I primarily ride in DC and the roads are pretty shit, so avoiding bad pavement isn’t really an option. Also I do use this board to commute via the Metro and going to pneumatics isn’t a practical option for portability during rush hour.

Looking for advice on any of these questions:

  • Is Red thread lock going to give me any better results than Green?
  • Is there any other mechanism I can use secure the mounting hardware
  • Does anyone have experience with both the Nano and Mini drives from 3DServisas? Would the Mini urethane drives be better suited to my application?
  • Should I give up on gears and do belts?
  • There are a few gear drive options in early phases of release, should I wait for one of those (TB or moon?)

At the moment I am leaning toward the Mini drives from 3DServisas because despite my specific issues, I think they make good products and have been helpful on the forums and via their website when I’ve had questions. Also I would be able to reuse a lot of my components (baseplates, bushings, motors).

3 Likes
#2

Red loctice is the go to for these

5 Likes
#3

Yup. Red with a 24 hour cure will set you right.

4 Likes
#5

If it still loosens with red, try JB weld or something (note - it will most likely become completely unremovable).

If that still comes loose, call a priest lol.

5 Likes
#6

Key to success!

15 Likes
#7

Good call. I’ll give red a shot, with the cleaning and what not. Thanks errybody

#8

Is there room for locking washers where they sit? I know it would look terrible. But red lock tite should be an improvement. Like others have said, clean the threads out.

If it’s really a problem you could switch to drilled hex heads and wire them :rofl:

Make sure to buy good hardware. Don’t get stainless. Go for a higher grade carbon. That’ll help the small Allen pocket hold up

That sucks the hear about the damaged gear. Those drives look nice.

#10

Try nord-lock washers

1 Like
#11

Our forum seriously needs to do a group-buy for those lol

1 Like
#12

I think @3DServisas recommends putting loctite into the threaded hole, not on the screw. That way you get loctite in the contact patch area, instead of pushing it outside along the screw when you screw it in. :slight_smile:

Also truck mounting screws on normal caliber or TB218 trucks should be tightened with tremendous force as they are soft.

3 Likes
#13

Yes ! This is it !!

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#15

I think @MysticalDork has experience with this stuff.

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#16

Yup. Lots of time spent safetying engine parts onto engines, with safety wire and other methods. I even acquired quite a bit of the safety wire stock from the shop when they went out of business, to go with my personal $80 pair of safety wire pliers, and a big ol’ box of crossdrilled bolts.

1 Like
#17

At least gear drives have relatively solid reseale value if they aren’t like 5000 miles in. Easy 60% back or so.