Oh, okay. Than I have no idea.
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Getting the new winding on isn’t hard and once you know what to do it should take like 15 min, but getting it off can suck.
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Unsensored controllers, specially ones derived from RC airplane designs like that one, have issues with inertia.
Since you significantly increased the spinning mass by adding a tire, you’ve also significantly increased the moment of inertia, which can make controllers like that simply fail to start.
I second the idea of trying to give it a spin by hand to get it moving before applying throttle.
If that doesn’t work, I highly recommend upgrading to a VESC or derivative thereof.
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If you want a good VESC for cheap have a look at the cheap focer 2. There’s a group buy organised by @ doomy and you can get a cheap forcer 2 for 30€ if you are good at soldering. I recommend paying extra and have the DRV and the SMD stuff soldered. The rest is not hard to do at all. Even if you can’t solder at all, doomy can do it all for you for a little bit of extra money.
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What solid higher amp escs are available now? The vesc6 I think will do 120 motor and 120 battery amps.
Is @shaman ‘s stuff available? Or u have a link?
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Here is a link for the group buy.
Alternatively, you can purchase them from any PCB / SMD manufacturing company, by getting the files needed from shaman’s github. There is an order guide, however it’s not really worth it in smaller quantities when there’s a group buy.
When I ordered my cheap focers, I calculated the price for ordering 5 from jlcpcb, with shipping it was about 140-150$, from doomy it was 30€ each + 7€ shipping. But if I had ordered from jlc I would have also had to pay tax on top of this, and for some stuff there is a MOQ, so I would have a lot of small SMD components as extra. Just get them from the group buy, it’s easier, faster, cheaper.
EDIT: oh, and JLC no longer stocks the DRV, so you would also have to get that from somewhere else if you were not purchasing from doomy, also driving the cost up.
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Theres a 75/300 clone from Yong that does 200A continuous and 300a burst if youre feeling like popping wheelies.
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There is also the spintend one. They both are yet to be proven reliable.
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fixed it for you
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The Increased moment of inertia sounds plausible. I have to confess that I only tested spinning by hand for starting support. Today I will assemble the board completely, give it a decent push to start and see what happens with the inertia of the entire board to support it.
Later on I will use 2 Hubs, sensored with 2 VESC. Thought about getting 2 makerX MINI-FOC PLUS. But haven’t ordered yet.
I fear rewinding might exceed my diy skills by far 
I hope everything else will solve the problem before. This evening I’ll see what could help
Edit:
Good news first:
- it is no mechanical problem
- it has nothing to do with the moment of inertia
- it is electrical
- I don’t have to measure resitance or inductiveness
- Maybe I have to rewire it…partly
- It is technically not complicated
- You can stop guessing
The bad news:
- It might be a real fiddle to fix
I’m no electrician, but I think there is something wrong with the wire, but see for yourself:
Somehow I didn’t see this underneath the isolation and it was tight enough to hold it in place…
–> Thanks for all your efforts and support!!!
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Is that a phase wire totally broken away from the windings?
Open and try soldering it back on, replace it etc.
if you can get to that wire stack with a probe without touching anything else and make decent contact, you could alligator clip to the probe and test it. At low speed and no resistance, there should be minimal current and it’ll move
When you mentioned that it “passed detection” what did you mean?
We are obviously referring to using the VESC tool software and a proper VESC to run FOC/motor detection which will spin the motors as it detects electrical parameters.
If it spins up smoothly during detection, you’re off to a good start. That’s obviously after we fix the broken wire.
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Yes it is. I like your idea with the alligator clip testing but unfortunately I can’t assemble it with a alligator clip because of too little space. In an unassembled it cannot spin.
But I will try to peel that wire end out of the motor in order to have some space for soldering decently.
I think there was a misunderstanding about the detection. I tested it on an ordinary ESC where it gave the same beeps as the other working motor gave for reference. This I interpreted as a faultless detection.
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no no, clip the alligator clip to a solid piece of wire or some other conductive probe and just stick it to it.
Granted, there’s clearly a busted wire and if nothings broken, its probably gonna work beautifully. You can test it with a probe to get a sense of where you might be headed. But its hardly conclusive. Just something you cant do like you said, once its apart
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if you can open up the motor(removing the top end there in the picture) and get maybe 1-2cm of length on the broken phase. Then its fixable. It’s going to be tricky but its definatly doable.
Worse case, you will have to unwound it abit to get some length to repair it.
Only problem i see is that your undamaged phases will practically be longer than the broken one, since all the wires are individually insulated by a coating, to repair it you need to remove the coating with some acid or sand it of very carefully. Then solder backsome wire to get the length you need to reach back to the ESC. This effectively reduces the length of the separated conductors however, making the “new” part of the conductor an extension of the path from the ESCs PCB essentially.
Not sure If I’m making any sense to you 
It probably wont pose much of a problem since the inductance is in the coils not in the straight part of the wire. But there is an upside to rewinding it if you wish to have it identical to the others.
The solderjoint on your repair will definatly be more prone to wear than the more flexible unbroken ones as well.
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It makes sense to me. But as it is in front of the coils and only few Millimeters I hope it won’t have any effect.
Unfortunately I won’t be home till Sunday to work on this 
After some fumbling around with the preparations/precautions and not too beautiful soldering…
I managed to revive it 
At the weekend I’ll search for the source of these vibration(noises) 
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Update:
Source of vibration were 3 magnets slightly grinding over the stator. After some mechanical adjustments, the gap is even all around.
Maiden voyage on old board with ordinary ESC:
I know, very very improvised with tape and stuff, low speed and accelaration but I just wanted to ride so desperately
The motor sounds strained but the final board will be powered by two of them with 2 VESC.
Now I will start working on the second motor, see you in 6 months 
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Is it the esc that makes the motor sound like that? 
Might just be the camera close to the motor but it sounds like you’re about to take off to the sky 
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I hope it is the ESC
In fact I was quite far away from take off (appr. 20km/h).
I will give an update as soon as the makerX VESC arrive and work.
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Yeah, Devin would find it hahahhahahaha hystersis
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