Defiant 2.0 The Reliable | So We Hope😉



SOOOOOO… Where to Start! :sweat_smile:
Love Ya @longhairedboy But Had To Improve The Short Comings For My Client Per Request!

So Lets Start!

This is one of my clients’ boards from NYC. They dropped off the Defiant for work at my workshop, @HyperEsk8Repairs. I’ve worked on this board quite a bit, mainly focusing on the now dead and gone :skull: Street Gear Drive. You’ll see where I’m going with this.

"So, if you’ve been active on the forum for the last year or two, you know who Defiant is and what parts their boards consist of.

  • 12S5P Molicel P42A pack with Smart BMS made by Damon
  • Lacroix Stormcore 60D+
  • Davega @janpom
  • Hoyt Puck @hoytskate
  • And, notoriously enough, @Boardnamics BN Trucks & Street Gear Drives. 'Say what’s up, Kev!:joy:

As many may know, street gear drives—and gear drives in general—often restrict you to one ratio, which can limit the optimal feel or performance of the board. While this can be frustrating, it’s something we learn to accept if we want the convenience of gear drives.

Now we have this thing we say between our NYC community of riders the Wild Ones :joy: where we say if the board is “NYC CERTIFIED OR NOT” You may ask what does that mean or have to do with this well allot! NYC has constant changing terrain and crappy and good roads all of that can happen within a mile of riding in NYC! So if you had to take a guess a board that’s on thanes that consistently rode the streets on TB110’s “WoAh THROWBACK WHEEL” the drives would get banged up quite a bit. Making it So that the drives gets some abuse on them. Keep in mind my clients a calm rider pretty much just uses his boards to commute and the “OCCASSIONAL” group ride that’s a factor!

So pretty much, the gear drives didn’t hold up on NYC streets and didn’t survive here. I fixed his gear drives three times before he finally gave up and was about to sell the board for pennies. But I said, ‘Let me change it to :sparkles::sparkles: BELTS :sparkles::sparkles:’—yes, belts! :joy::joy: The first time, the wave washer under the motor C-clip somehow blew. The second time, the motor shaft was being pulled out of the base of the can. The third and final time, the clamp that holds the drives into the trucks kept coming loose, causing the drivetrain to rattle and shake. So, you can imagine why my client was fed up; he was really tired of the issues, mainly with the drives!

So how did I convert it to belts? Well, it was actually pretty simple. I reached out to @IDEA to get some brackets made since he offers BN motor mounts for the specific BN truck profile. YOINK! Let me get a set! As a matter of fact, another friend had issues with the Defiant drives on his DIY as well, so YOINK AGAIN! Another set of mounts for another board. Before IDEA shipped it out, that other board will be a story for another day. Stay tuned!

Finding pulleys for 10mm motor shafts can be a pain, but luckily I was able to get them from Flipsky—16T pulleys. I also managed to get 45T pulleys from Onsra. Great!

Belts Came Out to 5M-15-290 Belts luckily had a set of those in stock already!

Now To The Elephant In the Room!:eyes:


What The F*** happened to the Enclosure😂

Welp! Long story short, it broke. I and many others were under the impression that the enclosure was made of urethane or a similar material, which we thought would be soft, resistant, and comparable in strength, rigidity, and flex to the Hoyt Tabor enclosure. However, I was mistaken. My client mentioned that he remembered coming off a few curbs where it might have hit. One day, he noticed it was cracked after coming in from a ride. This customer has been coming to me for a while with pretty much all his e-skate collection, so I told him I would take care of the issue.

So, what did I do? I started an extensive process of layering resin on the enclosure with black resin pigment. I began the process of patching the enclosure; it’s the best way I would describe it. However, this repair is more of a temporary solution rather than a long-term fix, because the enclosure is already compromised and will likely have issues in the future.

so sanded the enclosure a bit to give the resin something to stick to and hold onto!


Poured on some resin with pre mixed black pigment and well​:sparkles: :sparkles:VOILA :sparkles: :sparkles:

24 HOURS LATER :alarm_clock:

We have a dry resin Layer #1 on the enclosure nice and glossy sanded it a bit after first layer dried up and put a second coat and 3rd coat after that 3 coats of resin and it came out well in the end!

To provide extra reinforcement, I created a fiberglass tape inner cover of sorts. This cover serves as an additional layer inside the enclosure, designed to protect against future damage and prevent water or dirt from getting in.



As per stock set up I put silicone around the edges to hold the pack down onto the enclosure but don’t worry I did put some VHB underneath to hold it swell onto the enclosure!

ALL IN ALL THE BOARDS UP RUNNING “UPRADED” in my book Quite a Fun Repair/Upgrade/Project For Sure Definitely Enjoyed It at least and Ready To Ride as the Title Says The Reliable |SO WE HOPE :wink::crossed_fingers:

UPDATES WILL BE POSTED HERE IF ANY IN THE FUTURE ABOUT THIS BOARD!

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This looks like a nice makeover. Well done RadiumKid

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Not yet still waiting for the official name change :joy:

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Looks good, how does the board ride I heard it’s not fast off the line but but picks up speed past 22mph (only one source). The work on the enclosure is well done.

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Thanks man appreciate it!

Stock acceleration sucks

Now after the mod it’s 16:45 ratio and now it’s great it has amazing take off and acceleration once it gets to 10-15mph it has like a second wind of sorts it picks up some more

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Damn son, that’s a lot of work! Looks good

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The stock acceleration is terrible. Fortunately it can be adjusted since it has a VESC.

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I think I am also going to do an overhaul on my Defiant One. The gear drives keep on loosening despite having been pounded back on and secured with some Loctite 680. I think the only way to keep it on permanently is to use JB weld.

The Boardnamic gear drive is pretty noisy and even with the ESC adjusted, still has poor acceleration. The noise is annoying a detract from the overall riding experience. Not sure what the gear ratio is.

Interestingly the motors run surprisingly hot. I don’t think that is a problem. Maybe because they are Maytech motors.

My enclosure has a small crack in it right where one of the enclosure screws tighten. Looks like it left the factory with that crack. It should be easy to fix/seal.

I think I would like to get different Boardnamic hangers in black with motor mount plates. 6485 173kv Reacher motors too.Another option is the Mboard RKP trucks. They look pretty nice.

I really like the asthetics of the board. I want to see how the board rides with the changed parts.

Im on the bench about buying one but it looks like the best board for the price range on the market. Anything cheaper comes from china and is limited at 12s4p.

For the few extra hundred bucks it’s all quality parts and much better than china brands.

On the flip side I’ve just got a Mach 1 ordered so I’m thinking the defiant 1 would complement nicely giving me two reliable daily boards.

Interested in any info on the board any feedback etc since there’s is surprisingly not much information on the board yet besides from the website

Also interested in why your going for 173kv over 205 wouldn’t the 205 have been better overall

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Ohh wow thanks for sharing interestingly enough I thought this was a one off or rare issue with the cracking of the enclosure but you say you have one as-well not as bad as this one was but an issue none the less.

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70.motor amps on that ESC based on a quick Google search

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Hehehe :joy::joy:

Should have pointed out I did mean street boards can’t ride at in Netherlands without police concerns.

And my use is for street mainly :slight_smile:

I will have to do the calculations about which motor KV will work best. I’m not a high speed rider so top speed is not that important. My Axedeck X1 has a 14s4p and has been very reliable. The N3 is a bit more expensive but comes with a 14s5p or 6p. Acedeck boards are well designed and quite solid.

As for solid parts, the Defiant One has Boardnamic parts that are made in China. The Maytech motors are made in China too.

I know your struggle. Your fellow german neighbor here. I’m not sure if a loud geardrive will be your best option if you want to be inconspicuous.

I do ride a MTB with silent gears.

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I’m building a silent hub drive on enertion hubs they look almost like wheels.

But locally I can still ride normal street boards without much concern keeping in mind safety of others of course and self.

The defiant I’ve got some nice routes locally almost 70km of smooth bike path if not more. And yes h I’ve got a gear drive and it’s louder than belts and defiantly hubs but so far hasent got me in trouble

I think this is what happens to an enclosure when you don’t use a heat sink. The board did not come like this. The only I can think of is the heat from the ESC warped the enclosure. I am not a very hard rider and limit my speed to about 25mph. No crazy take offs.

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Yup that is indeed true and what happened to my customer aswell and I keep noticing it on defiant boards I think the heat of the esc and the bms warps the enclosure and since the enclosure is already soft it stays in that shape creating a belly look to the enclosure.

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