Hi, Asking for a friend who is not a forum meber. Yet 
He rides a OMW Hussar with CNC DKP trucks. The stock bushings are oragne 
( I guess they are 100A)
He is on the heavier side, around 105kg with all the gear.
He gets âspeed wobblesâ especially when releasing the throttle in speed mode 4. My suggestion to him would be to use chubby or a fat cone at the back truck road side, But im not sure about durommeter ect. Thanks for the help in advance!
Go to riptidesports.com and go to the kits, we have a special kit for OMW.
I will back to you on duro after I check my notes at the office.
The 96a kit should be the ticket!
Thank you very much. He will order the bushings over Sick boards as they shipp fast and cheep to EU. Do you know which pivot cups he needs for the OMW CCNC Dkp trucks?
Does that mean he needs 4 Indy Stage 4 pivot cups?
Sick will not likely have the OMW kit, it is very different form our others using Canon and Magnum bushings plus 2 different pivot cups. The Stage 4 follows the hanger so in a DKP configuration, the Stage 4 goes into the center carrier unit. When you convert over to a TKP, the Stage 4 goes into the base plate.
So hereâs more of a theoretical question that Iâm trying to understand so I can make small, incremental changes to one of my boards. Iâve been riding mostly on Dualities pretty much 90% of the time this year, but I did bust out the Dadbod this week to mix it up. I remember liking the ride feel before, but after the Dualities, it felt really stiff, the carving is just ok, and the turning radius is pretty meh. So the goal is to liven them up a bit but keep the stability (I know, such a unique request).
Dadbods come with 50/35 RKP splits, and those are loaded with 90a Kranks: barrel / fat cone front, barrel / chubby rear (I canât remember the heights, but I actually think it was mix of .6â heights and .75â talls on both the front and rear truck). I vaguely recall that at the time of the boardâs release, this combo was tested pretty decently and was considered highly effective. It was a little too reactive at my weight (~200 lbs) so I bumped up the duro to 96a, but kept the shapes. This was probably a bit much, but at the time it felt good for cruising (I wasnât aggressively tossing the board around turns or anything). It definitely now feels like too much. Small wrinkle: I think I swapped out the .75â barrels for standard size barrels, as the kingpin nut would have to be severely cranked down to even thread on to the minimum, but I may be mistaken and they were .6â boardside and roadside bushings. This probably added another variable in there, which isnât great.
So this is where the theoretical comes in. Letâs say I split the difference and replace everything with 93As. If I wanted to fine tune it at that point, what would guide the decision between changing duros versus shapes? Examples:
I guess what Iâm trying to figure out here is how to figure out the interactions between duro versus shape, and when, in general, to apply them (I figure thereâs a lot of trial and error when it gets into small tweaking). Iâm just guessing here, but duro seems to take into account compression versus weight (rider and board load) to arrive at a certain type of feel based around âplushnessâ and rebound characteristics. Shape seems to affect the qualities of how turn / lean works, with some shapes being progressive, others being linear, and various degrees inbetween. The two also appear to be intertwined pretty closely, meaning adjusting for duro also affects the characteristics of shape. Or (and I wouldnât be surprised at all) I could be completely wrong about all this.
Iâm coming at this from my work-mode engineer head who wants to reduce as many variables to mess around with / test with, which is why this is possibly very pedantic, lol.
Iâll throw another huge variable into the mix for you, bushing formulas. What you want (same stability but more turning) is easiest achieved by switching to a lower rebound formula, look towards APS or WFB. APS being a fair sized jump and WFB being something completely different for ride feel, which for some is a step too far but I love it. Since you are coming from Krank itâs probably easier to get used to APS first before going into WFB. The lower rebound will make for a more divey feel.
For me duro is the last thing that I think about when selecting bushings. First is formula and second is shape. Generally I look towards WFB for racing and high speed riding, APS for carving and having fun, Krank for setups where I need the lean to stop early otherwise I get severe wheelbite or other clearance issues.
Shape mainly defines progressiveness, more urethane: less lively and tends to get progressive near the end. Conical shape: more lively. A bushing with less volume often needs to go up in durometer for the same stiffness. With duro adjusted for the same stiffness in ride feel, it would give more turn near the end of the lean.
Then duro: some stiffness is needed around the center, but the edges shouldnât be too stiff otherwise you lose turning radius. Adjust to your liking. Always have the front softer than the back. Preload should be roughly between 0.5-2.5 turn after snug, duro should be something that gives you the desired feel while staying in that range. Especially for lower rebound bushings I usually prefer to be in the 1.5-2 turn range.
One more thing to keep in mind, in most trucks (doesnât matter for dualities) you want the stiffer bushing boardside.
Things of course effect each other in some ways but this is a methodological approach that worked for me quite well so far.
Are you taking into consideration washer influence? Especially the difference between cup and flat washers. Washers are your least expensive tuning tool.
True - I usually end up with flats due to the size of the bushings in use (fat cones, chubbys). Any thoughts on when you end up running split duros? Is there any reason to?
Apparently, they are designed by the same man that designed the Gullwing Side Winders. Do you have a set? Lots of unusual comments in their promo video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAKwucUhvYk
I donât have a set. I am getting tired of these Evolve DKP trucks having the pivot pop out of the cup when I ride hard, they are just seemingly designed wrong haha.
DKP style trucks I have found that allow proper drifting/countersteering on wet grass with slick rubber tires. Super fun but these old trucks donât hold up to the abuse.
The combination of so many polymers deflection points and short pivot intrusion can be a risky mix when going deep.
Man.
I could get these going with some BN hangers and just get the middle adapter for 110 bucks.
I am super curious about these now
I got curious from your post & ordered a set just now, ha. I asked the guy about compatibility with Caliber II geometry and they hadnât tried them on that yet but had done Randal, Paris and Bear so sounds like it should be cool.
I have a set of empty BN adjustable baseplates to fiddle around with the angle on them too which should be interesting.
EDIT: Got more info in another email with the maker - they say the 50 degree kingpin is the most important geometry to make sure the system lines up correct. And then they install baseplates with a 14 degree riser.
I do too. Makes me ponder these on a mountain board evenâŚ.
You Double Carve fans seem to crave risk, let me know if I am wrongâŚ
I avoid risk by keeping it slow generally.
Me too. When trucks are super carvy, you donât need to go fast to have tons of fun. A rear hanger than is compatible with small motors would be nice.
