Fuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhk, now I gotta put this shit back together.
@mynamesmatt I hold you ENTIRELY responsible. Grab a TORX wrench, get the hell over here and give me a hand. Bring a six-pack, too. #&$%
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should’ve taken photos beforehand. thank you for the diagram though
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I’ll gladly take pics before and after you show up here with a 6-pack. Just show up!
Better make it a case now, just sayin’.
im in Germany rn and Aussie in a month, so if you’re in either then i might consider it!
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Nevermind, I’ll be in Singapore next month. Just let me know you got yours working and we’ll call it even.
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I added a small o-ring under the lid-bolts to further prevent water ingress. I use the the V2 phillips ones that have a smaller head, maybe the original torx bolts are a tiny bit too big.
I also added 3d-printed plugs for the unused holes and sealed the motorwires with silicone
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Beautiful build! How’s the DieBieMS been treating you?
I am getting a new board setup and am having trouble with the CAN bus connection. Any reason why you went with the CAN cable design that you showed vs passing it though the DieBieMS? I have had no issues so far with my VESCs seeing each other through the DieBieMS connectors, but am not seeing the BMS over CAN. There are only a few settings for CAN connections so I think it’s set correctly. DId you have to change much from the defaults for the CAN communication?
Thanks for any tips you can offer!
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I have had no issues to date with my DieBieMS. I went with the cable design I used because it was the “way to do it”, or at least it seemed to me at the time.
Given the fact that it hasn’t failed in over 1000 miles, I’m confident in my choice.
The only thing I remeber checking carefully was that each device had a different CAN address. Other than that it was a cakewalk.
Re-surfacing this build for a few reasons:
- I feel like Hummie hubs are just around the corner. This build was never complete without Hummie hubs. The whole purpose was to build as uber an esk8 as possible while keeping it as incognito as possible at the same time.
- I want to rename it HummieBluYa. No offense, John.
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I’ll be watching. Got some unlimited hubs recently and it’s inspired me to pull my original haya out the closet and wipe the dust and actually do something with it!!
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So I got my hummie hubs! I dug this build out and took everything apart. Ready for deep dive rebuild.
First problem I have is that I originally stacked 2 pieces together for the truck spacer: half is 3d printed spacer with built in power switch (back) and built in charge port (front). Both pieces were not tall enough to sit flat with the cutout, so I ended up using a rubber standoff to overcompensate for the height difference. I’d like to fix this issue by printing new standoffs that are thicker, but of course I have no idea where the original 3d models are.
Anyone with working knowledge of the Haya deck and a 3D printer, I’d really appreciate your assistance in this matter.
After having added G-Bombs to it, the ride is phenominal. Very comfortable, and its 2” off the ground.
I’m not crazy about sensorless, but it’ll grow on me I’m sure. They’re so quiet, powerful, and responsive. I’m just used to being able to take off from a full stop and/or holding position on an incline without putting foot to asphalt.
Short video to follow so that you can (not) hear the noise they make.
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I’m interested in seeing you try silent HFI in the new Vesc FW with these hubs
Precisely what this is. Upgraded FW on my Flipsky 6es to latest build, used VSS and HFI both on there, took them both for hall way runs. VSS won. It still freaks out a bit at a dead stand still, but with a tiny push, VSS sounded and ran better.
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Correct-a-mundo.
That is surprising. My understanding is that VSS requires temperature sensors, so I wouldn’t expect it to be ideal for the hummies