This is a long shot, but one thing you could try is changing the CAN ID on the side you can communicate with.
If both sides happen to have identical CAN ID’s, that can prevent connection.
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Buy 2
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Alright I’ll give that a try, thanks
Edit: it didn’t work so I’m not sure what to do now
Few questions was looking around and didnt quite get a clear answer on this.
WTF is the difference between the Makerx DV6 and DV6s and DV6s Pro?
If I recall correctly the 6s pro just has a higher rated phase/bat amp capacity but thats pretty much it. Ultimately I really only care about the difference between the DV6 and DV6s.
Specifically with respect to the DV6, can I just yeet FW6 on the thing without risking it killing itself (obv making sure to disable phase filters)?
If not, do I need to run their custom build firmware? At this point I assume their custom firmware is the same as the official firmware just with phase filters disabled and/or some other limits configured.
If the custom firmware is needed, is the DV6S FW compatible with the DV6?
isn’t the DV6 quite old already? Ryan did a video about it in 2021
probably more amps, better fets in the dv6s.
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As far as I know, Dv6 was the earlier one. DV6 Pro is the more powerful version, Dv6s has the same power as Dv6 Pro but they managed to shrink it.
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its super old, but it works and its functional; Really if I cant upgrade the firmware “meh” I guess. I’d like to have it on a more modern firmware for the sake of some LispBM support but if not it is what it be.
FWIW, I’m a cheapskate I really don’t want to upgrade the ESC (hardware) until I have a reason and short of modifying my 12s10p to a more modern voltage 18-20s/6p Im trying to stretch the lifespan of this thing as best I can without needlessly spending money.
Granted, having my ESCs unified instead of running split ppm is one reason why im tempted to upgrade as it stands but neither here nor there.
And you needed a loopkey/ antispark switch for the dv6 and dv6 pro. The DV6s does the newer style turnoff with the stm hibernation and comes with a momentary switch so not having to run loopkeys (and risk accidentally leaving them plugged in after a ride and destroying a battery) or unreliable antispark switches is a feature I really appreciate. It also has roll to start I am pretty sure, the dv4s definitely has it and that’s rated close to the same power as the original dv6.
@Davewesh I ran fw6.0 beta on an og dv6 for a while, it was fine. Had to max out the abs overcurrent fault threshold and also set slow abs overcurrent to true, which isn’t exactly how I prefer to setup my vescs in an ideal world to not get faults. That said it did run reliably and I had some form of silent hfi running. Shfi definitely wasn’t running optimally but I didn’t tweak it at all and was still significantly better than sensorless.
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My old DV6 had no issues for thousands of miles, I ran a custom 5.03FW from @jaykup . Except for like 5 ABS Overcurrent fault, which was 169% my fault. My phase wires management was horrendous.
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Has anyone used a jk bms in their build before? hoping to find a tutorial of some kind really don’t to break anything lol - and as aside how do i make a post is there a trust level i need to achieve?
Post a link to the bms you want to use, trust level is just an anti spam thing. Read a couple threads and look around and it quickly goes up but it’s a threshold bots aren’t interested in.
Not so quick questions for those running AT/Offroad boards.
I am running the MBS T1s right now, and the profile on these is fairly round. I suspect that these are designed as such initially for the downhill/kite boarding mountain boards were originally designed for and thus lower rolling resistance, perhaps something also to do with the inner tube as well due to the torus shape.
- First, curious if there are any more flat-profile tires out there beside the MBS Explorer?
- Also curious if those of you that are running AT/Offroad have tried any more flat-profile tires and have thoughts regarding them. Are they worth the increased energy consumption? Traction gains noticeable?
On mountain bike trails around my area, the profile of the T1’s is fine. I am probably not even close to pushing their limits; In the grass the T1s have dismal traction and even with 4wd I get free-spin in low duty cycle scenarios from a standstill. Idk if my expectations are unrealistic so im curious what others have to say/share.
Bonus topic/questions as I’ve been pushing more and more I’m questioning if I would see improvements in comfort (personal) or performance by swapping out otherwise stock parts. Example I’ve been running rockstar 2 hubs on my DWII since I bought it back in 2018 and the same is true about my shock blocks.
- Am I missing out by not running Aluminum Hubs/ Rockstar Pro II/Pro II XL?
- What about shock blocks?
- I’ve heard softer blocks improve carving I presume this is less about turning radius and more about flick-ability. I can get deck-to-truck lock with the stock shock blocks.
- Should I actively consider upgrading to the Matrix III or is the novice (me) unlikely to notice any improvement between the M-II and M-III?
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Trampa mudpluggers have a flatter profile. I’m not really a fan but one of the other guys in our group likes them. IMO, airing down gets better traction than swapping out tires (at least between AT options).
Doubt you’re missing out by not running aluminum hubs. I just got a set of rockstar pro II XL hubs for the next build. They’re shiny and look really nice but not expecting any performance gains. Definitely heavier than the phatladz on my other builds.
You should definitely play with shock block options.
If you’re going to change trucks, considered Dualities. My other builds are jealous because the one running Dualities gets most of the ride time.
Idea Double Deltas look awesome too, but mine don’t arrive until Monday so can’t speak to their performance. Very excited to try them though.
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I was wondering if I could get some input on an idea I was having. I was looking on Facebook marketplace and found a v1 boosted board that needs a battery for $60. My plan is to replace the bms and esc I basically just need the motor, trucks, and wheels is this a good idea?
Also if I did want to replace the motor would that be something that is possible with keeping the rest of the assembly if I go through with this plan?
I can’t see any reason that wouldn’t work, youll just have to consider the space constraints of the enclosure when picking out components. Seems like a fun project
Ok thank you.
If it is possible to get the Boosted board motors to work with a different ESC then it could be worth it assuming you like the deck, enclosure, and trucks it comes with. If you like the front wheels then that is a plus but not needed for that price IMO.
I know they put in some heavy handed propriety crap into their boards but if you plan to get new motors it shouldn’t matter.
The deck and enclosure alone aren’t a bad deal at that price, and the front truck and wheels make it a better deal IMO. Still assuming you like the shape and size of everything since if you don’t then it isn’t worth it even if it is a good deal
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Ok thanks for the input I appreciate it.
I recently realized im an idiot
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