Yea I think it’s from not clamping both sides evenly, I had to saw off the screw since the nut wouldn’t budge so I’m gonna try it again and see how it goes but definitely send the drawing or photo whenever you can
So i literally sold my diy complete this weekend that i did this to on the m1at drives on 270mm hangers so ill just go from memory with what i have for examples.
Ok so with the cut in this 4gs one ideally id put a relief cut here:
But because of the bolt hole i wouldn’t want to get too close to this and would instead put the cut here:
It doesn’t have to be much of a cut to let it compress an extra .25mm to get those clamping forces up. 6-7mm deep is probably plenty but cut all the way across the narrow dimension. As far as how deep i tried to keep most of the meat on it but still making a meaningful difference. Somewhere between a third and halfway.
Use a good 5/64th ish inch or 3mm drill bit at the root of the notch to make the end good and rounded, no sharp corners. Remove the rest of the material however you can as neat and squarely as possible. A drill press and fine bandsaw are how i did it but hand tools will work as long as you try to keep it as straight as possible.
Then come back with a fine file or sandpaper and get rid of your tool marks. Any sharp corners and nicks can make it not last as long so take your time. It’ll never look as good as a milled part but it’s fine. Take your file andknock the corners off the cut and should be gtg
2 piece clamp ftw
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@Red_souls You could try cleaning the surfaces, then putting locktite where it’s sliding. I bet that’d solve your issue.
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I am trying to get Inboard M1 hub motors to fire up on a test 7s single drive ESC and battery.
I have wired up one Julet to MR60&5pin JST.
I have gotten one motor to sound and run fine, by trying different combinations of phase wire order, and sensor wire order, but the other motor seems to have no happy combination where there is not a brief cogging/clunking every so often when spinning. It sounds like the stator hitting a magnet or some other internal obstruction.
My snap ring pliers are winning a game of hide and seek so I can’t confirm whether there is obvious internal obstruction or this is cogging.
Does this sound /look like cogging or Internal obstruction to your eyes and ears?
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I’m trying to fix a charger here, a C600M 12s 10A like artem sells here
The charger is completely unresponsive when plugged into wall power (no light, no screen, no output voltage)
I’m pretty far out of my depth here but hoping to confirm I’m on the right track.
I opened the charger and it looks like this:
My first instinct was to look for an input fuse which is what I’m guessing this is:
I checked continuity between the two pins of that black thing (which I assume is a fuse) which showed no connection.
Am I correct in thinking:
1: that thing is a fuse.
2: no continuity implies it needs replacement.
Also does anybody know where to find a replacement for this fuse? I’m having a hard time finding the same rating and form factor as the original fuse.
Any info on the naming scheme here would also help.
Nailed it
Hard to find in consumer quantities, did a little digging and found a spec sheet on made in china. Com. Looks like it fits a slow blow fuse (150% of rated current =60 minute clear time)
I would suggest putting in a glass fuse like the 215 series time lag fuse as they seem to be very similar in fault clearing times and such but the data sheet from the made in china doesn’t show all the average time current curves so it’s harder to compare so i just exceeded the ratings with my suggestion
My suggestion: remove and test the blown fuse to make sure it is broken. If it is bad, jumper across it - then make a current limiting supply. Easiest way is to put an incandescent light bulb in series with the hot wire… but those are getting harder to find.
Power it on with the fuse bypassed and an incandescent lamp in series and test the output voltage. If it turns on and looks to be working (i.e. nothing else is busted) then order up a 0215015.mxk8p or equivalent slow blow through hole fuse and slap it in there…
or skip the testing and just get one they are like a dollar but $8 shipping and slap it in to see if it works.
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That’s funky, does it stay with the motor of with the esc if you swap sides?
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I am using a single drive 7s esc to test each motor individually. The other motor is behaving using same esc and julet cable.
I Dont wanna risk my 10 s dual esc as the ability to roll = partial sanity, i think.
This quirky motor’s cable shows some abrasion, but flexing it near under power, there does not seem to affect the clunking behavior.
I suspecting without any experience, that there is a compromised sensor wire, or phase wire connection from Julet connector to the motor, but since it comes to a dead stop, sometimes, when it clunks, makes me think intermittent internal obstruction.
Can you try it without the sensor wires at all? See if it’s just getting bad feedback and causing it to hiccup like that?
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No, the esc just starts beeping with JST disconnected, when.I push throttle.
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With esc oowered up, ensor connector removed, spinning the.motor by hand feels like it is braking, albeit weakly.
With it connected, sometimes it clunkcogs and refuses to start, but if i spin the motor several degrees, then hit throttle, it starts up almost normally, and abive a cettain rpm, the clunking starts again.
I need to get some snap ring pliers and look inside. It’s hard to imagine that the clunk sound is not actual internal mechanical interference.
Why it is intermittent is a conundrum to my pee brain though.
Just curious, how many pole pairs did you input?
This is just a physically tiny ‘aladdin’ 7s single drive esc.
Made by Lingyi, i presume.
It works ok with the other inboard hub motor, with the right combo of phase and hall effect wire order.
Wrong order and motor does not spin at all, and just makes weird noises, like on vesc detection.
It really sounds and feels like an intermittent physical obstruction, but the intermittent thing makes no sense to me.
You can’t feel the physical obstruction spinning the wheel by hand? Hard to spin quickly enough to match but would narrow it down to a physical vs electrical issue
No interference when spinning it by hand, as fast is i can spin it by hand, but the noise starts at higher rpm, or can sometimes occur at the very start up under power.
Hello all, wanted to ask if there is a downside when using a 10mm shaft with keyway on motors, instead of 8mm with keyway? I guess bigger is better hehe?
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Can OG Focbox 1.6’s work on HFI/sHFI?
Anybody know the amount of motor poles on Inboard M1 hub motors?
There are fewer options for pulleys, gears or sprockets for a 10mm shaft.
8mm with keyway is the most common, there are a good number of 10mm D shaft options as well.
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@SternWake - Inboard M1 hubs have 20 magnets(poles) = 10 pole pairs.
source: settings currently in my vesc’d M1.
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