Thank you, I did check and saw all the Gnd pins on the esc were shared continuity so I assumed Gnd is Gnd no matter where, and I did search the swd and saw it was used to unbrick esc using another esc.
I would assume inside the throttle control box is just some simple hall sensors. Which is why I lean towards adc signal, the old esc was not vesc based so it didn’t really have any usable information to transfer over, it was votol, which I understand is a pretty good unit and popular on electric dirt bikes and scooters, just not the specific unit I purchased, but of course I didn’t know which unit to avoid until it blew and I dug deeper into them.
The build is not really dedicated thread worthy we just took an old beat up destroyed by a hurricane rusty flooded MotoTec and rebuilt it, my son is 9, he loves the bike and it was good on 48v but I wanted more power haha 72v blew the esc even though it was claimed to be designed for that. I suspect I purchased a clone that they skimped on quality parts.
Good to know, hopefully you get it fixed up. Unfortunately most cheaper esc don’t state the usable voltage after removing the headroom necessary for voltage spikes and such. I wish the usable voltages were more conservatively estimated so choosing the correct components was a bit less obfuscated. Even if the product is a cheap knockoff it would make diy and repair much more affordable without having to smoke test components.
Hi guys,
I’m new to the forum but I was hoping someone would know someone who’s a guru in these 4.12 OG FocBoxes. I’ve been working on getting the CAN working again which was successful until I knocked off and lost these two caps in the process from the other VESC.
(upload://y2mlywrr4QCpEontCATCUP7uzuh.jpeg)
I can’t get any readings off them but I assume since they’re for the crystal oscillator they’d be in pF, before I buy an LCR meter does anyone know the values or have a PCB schematic? Are they even important or can I improvise?
Cheers guys.
It seems that my C600M is set at ~110V, if anybody has troubleshooting advice to see if it’s repairable I’m incredibly open to advice or if somebody else has experience and knows if it’s switchable to 220V I’d love to hear how. I believe this is the same OEM as SKP/radium chargers so I’m hoping somebody else knows more than I do.
Based on context, I assume the adjustable charger is switchable to 220v after manufacturing but it does seem like wherever that switch is, it’s only supposed to be accessible to the seller rather than the customer. I’d also love to hear if anybody has advice on finding that.
I would guess that my 12s 5a Eovan charger doesn’t need any switching to configure for 220v given the “input 100-240v” label but I’m not confident enough in that guess to plug it into 220v power before somebody smarter than me can comment.
If all else fails, I can probably ask one of the neat folks at carve SEA to bring a spare charger but I’ll try to be independent first by crying for help here
Looks to me like the evoan 5a charger willl do anything just fine. Im going to try and do every ride at carve this year and im bringing a universal 18a charger so if that’s not fast enough i got you
Can somebody help pls.
Snapped a cap off of my foc box . Purchased a replacement , same spec but looks smaller .
Will it be ok and which leg is positive ? The longer one? Thx
So I had a random thought today my Evo build sits lower in the front than the rear because of my adjustable baseplates and the angle there set to. Would it be worth adding a spacer and leveling it out? Is there a handling difference?
I got new motors and was changing some setting in the VESC tool and my remote was working as usual. I changed some settings around and now my remote wont move the motors. It is still connected and displays tellemetry and everything but it wont turn them.
Everything is in UART mode and ive tried all the turning it off and on again solutions. Has anyone experienced this? Is there a setting im missing in vesc tool?
