Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

One of my motors is making a weird noise when it slows down. Any idea what is causing this?

Sounds like a loose winding, I’d pop the cans off and take a look.

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WTF thread is used on this XT-60E1-M?


It is Not M3(shown), or a #4
M2 fell right through.
Wasted half hour in ace hardware.

M2.5… lol. Not really available at hardware stores.

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I think I have some laying around if you’re stateside.

Just pay shipping + dog tax

Black Oxide. ?!!!

hwarffffff.
Just kidding.

I got 10 of these supposed genuine xt60 panel mounts.
Can’t imagine using more than 6 of them before I die.

Wanna trade?

Deal!

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yeah as long as they say “AMASS” somewhere they’ll be legit. I have a bunch of them, use them on my milwaukee m18 soldering iron creation. Pic uploading


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Do we yet have a m18 soldering iron thread to assuage curiosities regarding the subtleties of such an endeavor?
:wink:

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lol if you’re interested I can do something like that, but it’s pretty simple. Unfortunately I somehow managed to lose all of the original CAD files. Online there exists a M18 battery to T12 soldering station that requires all of these fancy electronics. I took the file, ditched all the fancy stuff, added a cutout for an XT60-E, and crimped that to two spade connectors. Voila, done. Just need a soldering iron that can accept 5s in, which a pinecil does.

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I’m still on the product choice precipice.

I recently bought some cheap junk ‘surprise!’ iron that claims 80 watts for 10$

Ill see how it compares with 40 watt weller
I have no issues finding 120vdc when i need.to solder, so far, but have a plethora of 5s power tool batteries

Compatibility is gonna vary by the actual battery because of shape. Also, most batteries don’t have low voltage cutoffs (usually located on the tool), and some will need supporting electronics like resistors to imitate a temperature sensor. Milwaukee batteries are luckily pretty stupid, they have no control over the main output terminals, cell balancing is done on the battery BMS, charging is done through a dedicated pin and there is some serial communication between BMS and charger.

I drained one of my 5s packs to like 11 volts. It’s not quite idiot proof

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I noticed 18v Makita batteries would happily discharge below 12.5v, outside the tool

I was not able open it

Hi everyone,
One of my motors has seized up, I’ve taken it off the board but I’m not sure where to go from here. Its a Boundnamics 6374 170kv motor that I bought in January 2024 and put on maybe 400 miles with it. Anyone know if I should open the cir-clip up and try to clean the motor itself or is there a bigger issue that I’m not seeing? Anyone open up one of these 6374 motors before for cleaning? I assume I got dust in it somehow as it still spins but its quite difficult to turn (see video for reference if it works)
Thanks for the help.

Sure its a 6374? Thought he only sold 84s and 54s

Either way, probably a magnet slipped which I found the 84s are prone too, especially if you run em hot.

You can take the circlip off and pull it apart(hard) to peek inside.
I have a couple with slipped magnets that i planned on fixing with high temp epoxy, but haven’t got to it, probably never will.

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Sorry. *84mm is correct

Sup guys - anyone know how to remove this threaded section of a Maytech 6389 so I can remove the last shaft bearing? I’m trying to get at the second (small) bearing that the shaft goes directly through.

I turned the internal bearings of both of my motors into gravel after a curb impact :grimacing:

Looked through a number of threads about 6389/6396 repairs, but it seems like most people are replacing the outer mega bearing.

F that. Grab an inner bearing puller or fashion one out of spare garage bits if you can.

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Failing that. Cork screw and a bit of dowel with a hole in :+1:

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