But rather than helping with anything, you chose to die on this weird hill of loctite reference…
Like I get it man, the colors don’t perfectly describe the compounds, but you definitely knew what I was referencing in the post where I asked for help. You chose to argue semantics instead of helping.
I don’t think anyone is challenging your expansive & concise knowledge of threadlocker compounds.
Back on topic:
How long would you say you were dremeling the shaft? How generous was your threadlocker application?
I’ve found that it actually takes a pretty considerable amount of heat to break green loctite down even though the operating temp max is usually like 175-200C?. I generally pull out the blow torch. If you’re just going for gut feeling/opinion: Id guess you’d be okay, it might be worthwhile checking it after your first ride.
Thanks guys. I’m thinking it’s probably fine. It was a ~2 minute Dremel job per shaft, so hopefully not enough heat transferred for long enough. I was very liberal with the green loctite & I’ve had the same experience needing to torch the stuff extensively + use leverage in the past for it to even budge.
I don’t think saying “green” Is something to that could cause any issues. Amazon knows what “green” means and so do we, even if these n00bs just typed loctite green into amazon they would get the right thing. As someone who heard someone on this forum say “green” and didn’t know they had different ones, I still bought the right thing when I was first getting into diy.
Depending on if you work on one drivetrain or several, it’s a decent idea to get the smaller bottles of each viscosity. I think I use the 680 often…? But I have 3 kinds, for slip fit, press/close fit, and press fit.
Frankly, for anything I have to actually use the press to fit, I’m probably not using anything to further secure it.
Probably gonna do a complete drivetrain swap then… De new trucks by newbee look great and supposedly they are bringing a street mount in the near future. But I’ll just keep reading here in the meantime.
Howdy, not sure if this belongs in a fibreglass thread but basically I’ve got a deck that’s either flat or has a very slight rocker, and an enclosure with what looks like a bit of camber. My two initial ideas are to
dremel a narrow slice into the side of the enclosure (up-down axis in the picture) around the middle to allow it to flex and contact at both ends
print a smile shaped part to fill the gap
Are either of these good/challenging/obviously flawed? I tried searching for a while for people bending or cutting reliefs into FG enclosures, but I think it’s a problem with the search function because I thought I’ve seen people do it before. My brain is also groaning at me at the prospect of trying to design a part to fill that gap with all its wonky flowing lines.
making a 3dp solution for that could end up getting quite time consuming. But you could use the part to incorporate some nice cable routing like @janpom did for the MBNEF. If it were me, I’d probably be tempted to get it close with 3dp while incorporating a cable pass through solution and then get it nice by sanding/filling inconsistencies.
In any case, that’s one of the more challenging tasks you’ll come across in esk8. gaskets, especially irregularly shaped ones like that are fucking hard to do well.
Ok, should my can id keep changing or should it stay static? I keep having issues with mu ubox where it does weird shit randomly. Tonight was the weirdest so far:
All settings go back to default, motor detection has to be redone mid ride. Pwm remote wont run both vescs . Randomly goes full break. Threw me on a turn at low speeds thankfully but im starting to get frustrated because it was working so well for like two weeks with no issues at all. I changed nothing on my setup in the past week except checking the slow abs fault because i was getting nuance abs current faults on the metr
I am starting to think the vesc is just a bastard. Any idea of where i should even start? I have nothing on the can except the two ubox over the internal can