Beginner Question Thread! 2022 Edition

But rather than helping with anything, you chose to die on this weird hill of loctite reference…

Like I get it man, the colors don’t perfectly describe the compounds, but you definitely knew what I was referencing in the post where I asked for help. You chose to argue semantics instead of helping.


This is a false statement.

I’m not sure why you have the audacity to say what I think.

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Dude, you’re taking this so personally. I’m sorry if you’re having a bad day, but when has anyone around here ever loctited a pinion with anything but 638/648?

If that’s the case, it seems like you’re the only one here that didn’t understand what I was referring to, and that seems to be a conscious choice on your part because I said “green”


I’m not taking it personally. I’m laughing at you telling me what I think, like you’re some sort of expert on the subject.

Pretty much, it’s like if you call a GT2b or a Puck a PPM remote


inferring from context is difficult for some of us



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you mean a “PWM” remote

I got my ppm remote, my green loctite, and my single receiver


It appears you’re doing exactly that to the rest of the forum. Now who’s the troll?

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I don’t think anyone is challenging your expansive & concise knowledge of threadlocker compounds.

Back on topic:

How long would you say you were dremeling the shaft? How generous was your threadlocker application?

I’ve found that it actually takes a pretty considerable amount of heat to break green loctite down even though the operating temp max is usually like 175-200C?. I generally pull out the blow torch. If you’re just going for gut feeling/opinion: Id guess you’d be okay, it might be worthwhile checking it after your first ride.


The last time I took off a motor pulley that was set with retaining compound, it took a few minutes of the torch, and a pair of pry bars.

It seems that often, allowing the pulley to cool would resolidify the compound, and I’d have to reapply the heat for it to be fully removed.

The amount of heat it seems, to actually unbond most of the green Loctites is pretty substantial.


@DerelictRobot @TheBoardGarage

Thanks guys. I’m thinking it’s probably fine. It was a ~2 minute Dremel job per shaft, so hopefully not enough heat transferred for long enough. I was very liberal with the green loctite & I’ve had the same experience needing to torch the stuff extensively + use leverage in the past for it to even budge.


I don’t think saying “green” Is something to that could cause any issues. Amazon knows what “green” means and so do we, even if these n00bs just typed loctite green into amazon they would get the right thing. As someone who heard someone on this forum say “green” and didn’t know they had different ones, I still bought the right thing when I was first getting into diy.


Depending on if you work on one drivetrain or several, it’s a decent idea to get the smaller bottles of each viscosity. I think I use the 680 often…? But I have 3 kinds, for slip fit, press/close fit, and press fit.

Frankly, for anything I have to actually use the press to fit, I’m probably not using anything to further secure it.


Probably gonna do a complete drivetrain swap then… De new trucks by newbee look great and supposedly they are bringing a street mount in the near future. But I’ll just keep reading here in the meantime.

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Hey All. Is the most recent firmware update for VESC stable? 6.2 I think it is. I haven’t updated some of my controllers since 5.3 and I’m doing motor detection for a new drivetrain…

Think I saw in a search that it caused soke UART issues for some peeps…


Edit: NVM. I saw the new VESC tool and accompaying firmware has dummied BLE capability. Fuck that noise. I’m sticking with 5.3 ans VESC tool 3.01.

For posterity:

vedder.vesctool-c0c9e0c9ac9ab114bba2eff8a94e72f0.apk (42.3 MB)

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Howdy, not sure if this belongs in a fibreglass thread but basically I’ve got a deck that’s either flat or has a very slight rocker, and an enclosure with what looks like a bit of camber. My two initial ideas are to

  1. dremel a narrow slice into the side of the enclosure (up-down axis in the picture) around the middle to allow it to flex and contact at both ends
  2. print a smile shaped part to fill the gap

Are either of these good/challenging/obviously flawed? I tried searching for a while for people bending or cutting reliefs into FG enclosures, but I think it’s a problem with the search function because I thought I’ve seen people do it before. My brain is also groaning at me at the prospect of trying to design a part to fill that gap with all its wonky flowing lines.

It’s a BB enclosure, but the blame for misfit is all on me because I knew it was off before buying.

making a 3dp solution for that could end up getting quite time consuming. But you could use the part to incorporate some nice cable routing like @janpom did for the MBNEF. If it were me, I’d probably be tempted to get it close with 3dp while incorporating a cable pass through solution and then get it nice by sanding/filling inconsistencies.

In any case, that’s one of the more challenging tasks you’ll come across in esk8. gaskets, especially irregularly shaped ones like that are fucking hard to do well.

Ok, should my can id keep changing or should it stay static? I keep having issues with mu ubox where it does weird shit randomly. Tonight was the weirdest so far:

All settings go back to default, motor detection has to be redone mid ride. Pwm remote wont run both vescs . Randomly goes full break. Threw me on a turn at low speeds thankfully but im starting to get frustrated because it was working so well for like two weeks with no issues at all. I changed nothing on my setup in the past week except checking the slow abs fault because i was getting nuance abs current faults on the metr

I am starting to think the vesc is just a bastard. Any idea of where i should even start? I have nothing on the can except the two ubox over the internal can