5kOhms in all 3 positions
what about the white? That makes it seem like it’s just a 5k pot and you’re measuring across the whole thing and the white will be the wiper. If that is the case then swapping the red and black definitely shouldn’t have ever caused an issue so something else probably happened.
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Am I missing something obvious here or why not just reverse it in software? Like go to motor settings in VESC tool, tick or untick the motor reverse box
u would have thought someone with intelligence working on electronics would know to be aware of red and black wires, but no, just swap them around like nothing and ask why shit won’t work 
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Dawg are you blind? I was literally told to do it by multiple people. Don’t call me dumb for following advice.
From his original question, he’s asking how to reverse the direction of the throttle throw on the remote
Just flipping the motor direction would work on current mode, but not on any of the braking modes.
Swapping the red and black wires on the POT inside the remote when doing a case mod (not sure how the receiver entered the conversation) indeed works.
Here is a post from Linny on the mini remote thumb throttle mod
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Oh right right I was missing something, I didn’t click the mechanical “pull trigger” vs “pull thumb” difference
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are there any preferred way to mount an enclosure to a deck? to start off I’m planing on 3d-printing an enclosure. might upgrade later on. i saw that electricboardsolutions had “enclosure mounting hardware”. would that work? well ofcourse it would work haha but like are there any better options? i have no idea im just asking. otherwise ill pick up whats available on electricboarsolutions.
My noob question of the day - Can I get some clarification on all the Metr versions?
There’s:
- Metr Pro (core module required for everything)
- Metr Pro CAN (same as above, but frees up UART port)
- Metr Pro CAN + SD + GPS (uses it’s own GPS instead of your phone and logs data to sd card. still have to access logs after the ride and download to phone app?)
- Metr Pro LTE (provides internet to one of the above. ?? does this mean you never have to use your phone at all? access directly from web? is this like a “find my lost esk8” type thing?)
I"m not sure I grasp the value add. From the LTE thread it seems it doesn’t transmit full records over LTE, so what is the big benefit?
Personally
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Did you ever consider re-running input detection and just doing it backwards? That’s what I did until I found out the puck has lefty mode and it worked just fine
Yeah, no, only works in current mode
I run current smart reverse for reference. But yeah idk any remotes besides maytech V2 puck and vx1.
Noticed while balancing the LLT BMS would let a cell get to 4.22V. Is that fine, or should I lower the overvoltage threshold from the default 4.25V?
correct
correct
Correct, with this setup you could leave your phone at home and still record everything that needs to be recorded. The Phone obviously is required if you want to change settings mid-ride. Recorded rides can be synced later when module gets connection to the phone.
Metr LTE requires either a Metr Pro or Metr CAN to work as it is an addon to the eco-system.
With Metr LTE you can have a constant connection to the location and limited data about your board(technically no matter where you are in the world, even if the board is on the other side), as long as it is powered on. (Like a live GPS tracker but with Data) What you can also do is lock your board. I like to use theft as an example.
If someone mugs you and steals your board with remote and drives off, you can go into the metr app and check the constant location and lock the board aka disable the throttle, only brakes will work. “making him unable to drive off/utilize the board.”
i probably have missed some stuff.
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No anti theft self destruct switch? Lame. Guess I can manually set batt amps to 300.
All of the cells we use are rated to 4.20V, +/-0.05V so even charging to 4.25V is technically “okay”. But, it can help a cell be a little less stressed if a lower charge voltage is used.
You could try a lower overvoltage setting, 4.21V or 4.20V, but then you could be interrupting the charging before the pack is “topped off, losing a bit of range.
But your cells would be charged to a slightly lower voltage so you could gain a bit of overall pack life. It’s your call, which is more important for you? 
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You bring the C4, I’ll whip up something for the electronics. 
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Wouldn’t the amount of energy between 4.2V and 4.25V (or even 4.18V to 4.2V) be marginal? I can’t imagine it adding more than 1000 feet of range on my setup.
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