Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

Looking to use epoxy on my motors. Since they are battle hardened, the rotor is epoxied but the windings are not. I want to do this since I have a wierd noise at low RPM, replaced the bearings and it’s still there. I want to epoxy the windings to see if it fixes things, can I safely use epoxy in the hall sensors or should I avoid them?

What’s inside? Special sauce of course. All I can say it’s awesome. Returning to snowboard style construction like some of our Pro decks from years ago (Pro 100 / Pro 95). Indestructible. Super fun. That’s all I can say for now. You’ll be seeing more before too long though… BTW, I’m going to be traveling for a bit so responses will be delayed - even more than usual :slight_smile:

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I would use MG Chemicals 4228 (red insulating varnish) for this actually instead of epoxy. It works really well.

Either that or epoxy you can put on hall sensors. You can cover every part except the bearings or bearing seats as long as you don’t block clearance for the rotor to spin.

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Hello! Could use some advice! Want to solder my charger port on my battery but I want to be sure it would be safe this way. So because of pre soldered wires on my fuse and bms I do have a few different sizes of wire in my set up. Would this be safe like the picture below (if it’s clear enough:p) ? (Those different sizes of pen stand for the different sizes of the wires and the red round is the fuse and yellow stripes or xt30’s

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22awg is pretty small. Voltage drop and heat is going to become an issue somewhere around 3-4A. That may prevent a full charge. If that could be upgraded to 14/16 or even 18 AWG that would be ideal.

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Only pay attention to the smallest wire in the circuit, which here is 22AWG.

If you’re going to charge at 10A or less, that will probably work, but will work a lot better for 7A or less.

What size is the fuse? For example, if it’s a 7.5A fuse then the wire size is fine.

Also which jack? Many 5.5x2.1 barrel jacks often get warm at 4A and can’t do over 5A. In that case, the 22AWG wire would not be the bottleneck.

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What’s that now?? Link?

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Stories gone :flushed:

Fucking instagram

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Is there any way to disable the stormcore push to start?

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ftfy

Thx! Charge is rated for 4A and my fuse for 10A. I rather be safe than sorry, but I also wouldn’t like to resolder my solder charger port (gx16-2), because with 16awg it would be kinda hard :sweat_smile:

Is there an odometer on Unity VESCs that I can access to see the recorded number of km? Not for the curren ride, all of them

No.

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I haven’t found a way from the app interface but it was a toggleable setting on the unity so the potential has to be there, right?

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Id hope so. Im gonna try to put a fingerprint sensor in my board and im really trying to avoid getting an external antispark for that but I dont think ill have to if I can disable push to start.

Diagrams are necessary for properly solving any and all physics problems. Hence why I say I’m not 100% without having made one to double check. You’d be surprised what little things you can miss without one

Is there any kind of meganoob tutorial on VESC’s, programming them, just a general rundown on them? I’ve been reading my face off on everything trying to get my ducks in a row before starting my first DIY. Have seen a lot of info on here about changing settings and various VESC apps to use and such but I’m just talking as basic as - VESC gets delivered, installed on board - now what? What to change right out of the gate, things not to overlook, etc. Like I said I’m looking for a VESC for Dummies guide here basically :sweat_smile:

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The tutorial on the Vesc Tool page is a great starting point.

https://vesc-project.com/node/178

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Awesome, thanks! It looks like there are a good chunk of YouTube videos on VESC tool also. This will give me some good stuff to kill time on our vacation drive today.

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don’t watch those old age vesctool guide, watch something at least within the last half year or 1 year max, some older stuff are outdated or simply have been reworked already

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