Thank you all for the feedback! Regen current lowered (edit) to -15 (3C?)
I was under the impression to NEVER go above 1C when charging a lipo. (In this case, that would be -5A for my 5000mAh lipo) This is outside my depth so I’ll trust you guys 
-15 is lower than -5
2 Likes
That’s generally the case when you’re actually charging it continuously, but when you’re braking the regen current only goes up very briefly before dropping as you slow down, so it’s not going to heat up the batteries much if at all. Plus being able to actually slow down is more important than whatever small degradation the battery will get from these bursts.
3 Likes
Anyone have moon eros hubs and mounted mbs pulleys on them? They seem to need m3 screws.
Does anyone know the length?
Can someone explain Current in vs Motor Current? Does the VESC act as a voltage regulator, lowering input voltage and increasing amps?
Looks like the Motor Curent is double the input current from the battery. Which one should I use for VESC limits? Ex: Xenith has 80A continous for each motor, is that the Current in (from battery) or Motor Current. Name implies I should go with the Motor Current, which is higher, but I want to be sure.
You can set your motor current much higher than your battery current as the controller and the motors interact differently than the battery and the controller. You should set your “current” which is the amperage coming from your battery based on the specs and config of your pack. For e.g. I’m running a 12s4p pack of Molicel P42a’s and the battery current is set at 100 amps which the cells can handle without generating much heat.
Conversely, you can set your motor current based on what your controller and motors are rated for. For e.g. a Xenith running 6374s will do 80/-80 without difficulty as long as you heat sink the controller. Without a heatsink, you may consider lowering the current to reduce heat that is generated.
For a more detailed description of battery amps, motors amps and duty cycle, you can read this thread:
2 Likes
This thread goes off the deep end quickly.
The way I like to think of it:
From a stop, you hit the acceleration hard.
Your motor amps go very high while your battery amps remain lower as you take off.
As your board starts to catch up to a stable speed, the motor amps drop off and battery amps start to take over.
There’s a good shitty graph of this effect somewhere here… I’ll try and find it.
5 Likes
Thanks! My 12s4p 40t can do in theory 120A, but I wouldn’t go higher than 100A. For my Xenith, I should use battery current 50A for each side, am I right? Since it acts as a dual vesc
3 Likes
Yep, motor and battery settings act like this:
So each side of the esc gets full motor settings and half battery
*focbox unity specific FW (not vesc branches) are the only outlier to this
4 Likes
Effectively yes that’s a good comparison, it’s not a million miles from a buck converter because it’s a pulsed higher voltage DC input fed through a large inductive load
The effective voltage that it gets “reduced” to is determined by the speed. Spinning motors generate a back voltage opposing the input that goes up with speed, at 0 speed there’s 0 voltage so basically anything will make it spin but you’ve gotta go up and up from there. See what @Venom121212 said for the overview of how current behaves
1 Like
Just soldered the balance wires for the first time! Should I put some hot glue onto the joints? (there was some originally, black. Scraped it off by hand and blade)
If yes, should I look for a specific hot glue cartridge or will a regular clear one work?
This is one reason why we want Professor Shartsis back.
4 Likes
He got too deep for his audience.
6 Likes
Nice! 
Covering the balance wires is a good idea. Black hot glue tends to be stronger than clear. You can also use silicone adhesive (get that stuff that’s not corrosive to electronics, very important)
I have a question about my VX2 remote.
I drive quite often in the inner city for commute and my VX2 will sometimes lose signal. It happens usually once every 4 hours or so. So it isnt super critical but it makes me feel less safe on the board especially when accelerating.
Sometimes the cutoff will be very quick - 0.5 second to reconnect and itll continue thr same throttle.
Sometimes itll fully disconnect and I will have to let go of the throttle before I can accelerate.
I have also noticed how the remote will disconnect somrtimes when I hold the remote and phone very close to each other (when checking GPS). Just recently, Ive begun to turn off wifi on my phone and it seems to have had an effect - I dont disconnect as often when having remote and phone too close (I havent tested this more than a few days so I am not sure yet).
The issue is that I have been using a crappy Hobbywing remote from Verreal for many months with very very rare disconnects. I trusted that remote a lot and my friends still ride it - one friend has ridden 2000km with less rhan 5 disconnects (he claims).
The disconnects were super bad at one point but got a ton better when I changed the wires with new ones.
So: is the VX2 too sensitive for where I am riding? If so, which remotes with km/hr display is suitable for city driving?
RF interference is common in urban setting and is usually the cause of cutouts. There are certain remotes that have stable connections basically in any environment. The hoyt puck is rock solid, but does not have any info or telemetry of any kind. The new VX1 pro is reportedly very stable and has lights that display battery charge. The VX4 uses the same wireless module as the VX1 and has some telemetry built in as well. There were some problems w the firmware on the VX4 but I think they have been resolved w an update.
3 Likes
yes, but surely there are cheap option than meepo?
1 Like
Question about UART remotes, used with metr’s and flexiBMS’. Is there a way I can have all three pieces of cake and eat em too?
Just bought a voyager on a whim. The build will have a metr and flexiBMS for sure. Is there a way to connect them all with a duel vesc setup? I know I should know haha, but it’s been a minute since I built a dual setup, let alone with all the new telemetry devices…
Remote on one side, metr and flexi via usplit on the other side
1 Like