Right after i ate shit:
After i un-dented alittle. Before it was completely stuck.
The stator:
Forgot to take pictures of the can. It still works ok just missing some magnets so its uneven which id expect to wear out the bearings faster.
Looks good bro I would say keep running it
hilarious that you put the tape on there expecting some little knocks… then slammed it.
Makes me think some aluminum motor covers with extra cooling is a good idea. @Boardnamics would you sell that?
Could either attach to the can or maybe be a metal tube attached to the gear drives on either side.
Definitely need motor covers or guards, bash guards for m1 drives would be nice too. The position setting that i think your supposed to have it at for the m1 drives have the motors waaaay too close to the ground. With the 6384s i had to flip the truck screws and put a extra washer on the board side bushing so i could set it one position higher.
Any folks using milliput?
Is that working out ok?
I had an “opportunity” to battle harden a can today…
Used milliput.
A million times easier and cleaner than the regular epoxy…
Already exist
it was a joy to work with…
As far as I know @rich did use it and @Lee_Wright as well in his battle harden motors yt video.
That’s what I have used on all mine, super easy and cleans up great, no issues so far.
I think lee said yonder up he still has not used those motors…
His video is the reason I have the milliput in my house…
That’s what I want to hear…
Yep, I used it a long while back and those motors are still going strong. Let Lee know about it and no problems with his motors. I’d have thought quite a few people will have followed his tutorial and no negative feedback so far.
I used milliput on several motors with success and I abuse them hard
For example I broke many closed Maytech’s within weeks. Since I battle harden them they last (also important to glue the wires inside and outside).
For the rotor the easiest way is to fill some gaps between magnets and then clean/wipe off all the remains with a damp cloth. It’s super easy but if you wait too long or do the whole rotor at once first then you need more tools than the wet cloth to wipe off.
Has anyone fully disassembled, to remove the mounting flange from the stator/coils?
I’m trying to understand how feasible it is to drill+tap a new set of mounting holes
I did repair some fucked threads on the mounting plate already, but never drilled new holes. It should be possible to do without needs to remove the stator from the mounting plate thou. Just be careful and maybe use some masking tape do that no metal parts getting stuck somewhere in the windings.
Will any epoxy putty work as a substitute to miliput? It is not sold here, I found one that is rated high temperature, 260°c.
I assume I shouldn’t use anything with metal mixed in right?