Battery, Motors, Esc's...which is weakest link ?

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  1. if you took the time to look at the picture it’s not -80 it’s -40 A

  2. Read this.

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Yup, way too high.

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This guy already knows more than all of us combined, so I’m tapping out.

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Sure, let’s go with your “40A”. If you understood what that even means at all then you still wouldn’t want to set it to “40A” . If you read the lower part of that explanation by Frank it says you control the current return using your thumb. So if you run “40A” regen and go full stop, that’s a full “40A” surging to your battery. Or you could limit it like most people by setting that to around 20 or 12 or in your case, probably 8

If your going 30+mph, and you need emergency braking… and your set at -8 Max Regen , what will happen.??

If you go to a forum and ask for advice from veteran builders and get upset when you don’t get the results you wanted to hear. What will happen???

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The batteries ability to discharge or charge is kinda arbitrarily decided depending on how long u want the cells to last before a percent of their capacity is lost and never hear of fires from high charge or discharge. I doubt you’d have a problem discharging way more than 80a or charging at much higher than their rated charge rate as well for short periods of time.

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Who said i was upset ?
You still didn’t answer my question

…And by the way I’ve been here since 2016… and the setting were set by Lacroix boards tech.

You die if you emergency brake at 30mph, honestly 8a should still be enough, for not hub motors.

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See no offense in my post, even if it was on a light tone.

Here’s the picture & source of my “Nope” :

All of the currently available VESCs on the market are marketed with their absolute maximum voltage rating as far as components go.

On your Ollins, 60v is the absolute max for MOSFETs, DRV gives up between 60 and 65v depending on the version you have, and it only takes a single voltage spike, nothing more.

When you go from acceleration to braking, and vice versa (or even just slowing down), your motor generates inductive spikes which go straight into your ESC. Also fast switching favors spikes all the same (ex : using FOC = fast switching).
7 to 10v spikes generated above your battery voltage is average and considered not bad, you can do worse as far as spikes go.

But that’s not a problem as long as you keep your battery voltage low enough to have a margin before reaching the absolute max and insta killing your VESC.

Now back to business, 13s means 54,6V at 4,2 full charge battery. Add average spikes of 9v, we’re up to 63v. But your VESC is caped at 60V, at 63v it is dead and when your board shuts down it will throws you on the ground.

12S / 50,4v max at full charge already gets you damn close to that 60v absolute limit, that’s why people told you multiple times that for a 12S setup your VESCs are the damn weak links in case of failure.

And that’s why when I see the Ollins 4.12 advertised as 13S VESCs, I can only say : “Nope”.

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All i can say i that 13S is what is advertised,… perhaps your theory is correct .

I’m 12S anyhow. never had a single problem with Ollin vesc’s on 12S at least.

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Bro its not a “theory”
Why come here, pretend like your’re asking for help, then just basically tell us all we’re wrong?

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Relax bro , I did’nt say he was wrong !..

…You never answer my question about needing Emercency/Hard at 30mph braking with a -8 Max Batt Regen

Sorry didn’t understand your question, can you please ask again in a full sentence?

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Are u looking for max power or what though? Probably the weakest link in all categories are the vescs even if made with all decent bits by Olin

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…Was just wondering if i was getting max potential from the 2 motors on my setup .

Power? U could increase ur motor and battery amp settings in the esc but maybe you’ll blow up. Maybe you’ll blow up anyway and I don’t trust any vescs at this point.

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I’d say your system is well balanced.

You could squeeze a bit more performance out of the ESC and Battery in your settings, but not much.

If you really want to max out those motors you’d need a new ESC and batt to be safe.

The Batt regen at -40 is indeed a bit too much but I personally would not worry as you’d dump those currents into the battery for only a few moments, a second at most.