Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Oh this is just for a single night of testing, I’ve got a readout on the battery from the VX1 and METR

i had the same thing it ended up being my wheel pulley screws were rubbing my motor mount screws.

Same firmware on VESC maybe metr module needs update or app not entirely sure which.

On setting tab can click the blue gear to update over Bluetooth.

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I just got my flispky vx1 remote but I was wondering should I wire the receiver up using the PPM on my focbox? or using the white jst plug to plug it from the focbox to the receiver.

If you want it plug and play, use the JST/UART connector. Also, do you have a 3d printer?

How hot can an fsesc get?
in Texas summer

I’m making a case for a Flipsky 4.12 (as it’s been soldered differently and won’t fit the magnificent @3DServisas case i have)

I’ve started making one from HDPE as it’s super easy to route and cut, do i need some kind of heat sync for the capacitors or can i just mount the pcb on stand offs and support the capacitors so they don’t move?

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The capacitors (cylinders up top) don’t need cooling but support for those and the PCB is a good idea, the mosfets (big black squares) are where most of the heat is likely building up). In any case I just mounted mine no need for extra heatsinks but depends on the climate and how much you’re drawing through the ESC so just check the real-time (rt) data in VESC tool or use metr module to monitor via Bluetooth.

Pretty sure temp cut off limits are set but generally hitting limits means things cut out so keep an eye on it or if you’re very concerned adding heatsinks can’t hurt (assuming they don’t short anything)

Great, thank you

i’ll see if i can track down some 3mm stand offs that are non conductive (as the mounting holes between the phase wires are very close to the solder blobs)

Yeah I used a 3d printed plastic enclosure for the ESC, receiver, and Bluetooth, but still have metal screws holding it in there that make me a bit nervous as well. I also coated that section with quite a bit of conformal coating and had previously continuity tested to be sure nothing was touching the screws. Luckily those ones don’t seem to back out of the 3d print plastic either really.

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Just got these and these to mount it

are the cans loose?

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Is the circle clip suppose to fit snug on the motor shaft?
Because mine can be spin around on the motor shaft and seems loose…
But it is the same for my other motor and it didn’t seems to cause any noise…

It might be…
I can move the can if I apply some force on to it :thinking:

as long as the circle clip is in the small gap which made for it on the shaft it can spin a bit, no problem.
but between the circle clip and the motor should be some very thin washers. if you push the shaft from the front, does your motor can move a bit to the back or can´t you push the can backwards?

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Does somebody know some good 12mm bearings for mbs matrix 2 trucks?

Trampa website or mbs.

I just ordered 10 from AliExpress to try. They were dirty cheap. I don’t have high hopes for them to last.

Any major difference between both? And why a 3d printer? I don’t have one but my friends do.

Tap the end of the shaft (where it meets the pulley) with a rubber mallet and CAREFULLY tighten the screws that secure the can to the shaft. Don’t strip the threads! Check to see if the cans are now solid. If the problem persists put some loctite on the screws.

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The major difference is woth uart you plug it in and don’t have to do a Setup + you have a reverse function.
With PPM you have to do the input setup and loose the reverse function.

3D printer because the Receiver is fairly fragile with its 90 degree angle.

I designed a Case for it (shameless plug)

The case is super hard to break. a bit bulkier but better than a broken receiver.


So if I have a focbox there isn’t really a point to plug that in the PPM connector in it? I’ve heard about some extra functionality that PPM comes with, but I don’t know what are they.
And using your case, it breaks the connector a bit when we try to push it in? :cold_sweat:
“TO install it, you just take the JST/UART connector and feed it through the bottom, but it will likely crack in its current state because there is not yet enough space.”