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Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

I think it went so poof. You must’ve thought it was anodized char texture.


@KaramQ why does @Dareno have a top view pic of your bedroom :joy::joy::joy: j/k dude


Big noob question:


–> Which one to get, why? (Reliable, affordable, noob-safe) for li-ion18650.

Thanks guys :wink:

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You will probably learn a lot from searching here on the forum with the little magnifying glass, try searching BMS, BMS wiring, BMS options and such. Lots of information to read!

As for now, my personal preference is either Bestec or SuPower ( both of these places have a good reputation for reliable BMS units. I have the SuPower ones running in three boards right now with no issues. Additionally I have one Bestec d140 running in a 10S build. Custom units like the DieBie BMS also exist but are quite hefty in price. Some of the ones you will find on Ebay are legitimate but a lot of them do not have the most important feature: cell balancing. It is important to have this feature in order to end up with an equally charged battery pack.

As for noob-safe, it is hard to wire a BMS without doing some reading first. When I did my first one it was very confusing. Ultimately it just came down to closely following the included wire schematic, but I had to do some reading to find that out.


Only make the belts tight enough so that neither one slips when braking at medium speed going down a steep hill. Yes, same tension in each.

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Go through these two threads: Is DIY right for you? and The battery builders club

Once you’ve read through both of those in their entirety, come back and ask more specific questions.


@b264 is such a know-it-all and elitist

I just use old washing machine v-belts and pulleys. To be honest, its easier to make your belts out of superglue and rubberbands, but i have access to lots of old washers👍

Does the xmatic app works with the flipsky nrf module? I read someone that it couldn’t but then in the description of the app it says that it is comptible with nrf51.

Looks like you forgot to fully blacken one of your solder points

You’re welcome


Question regarding VESC over current faults and broken motors:

My brother ate street just now because of his “motor locking up”. Don’t know if it actually locked up, or if the vesc just shut down, because if I type in faults in the vesc console I get multiple ones like:

Click to see fault codes

Current : 118.5
Current filtered : 112.6
Voltage : 35.30
Duty : 0.296
RPM : 5552.0
Tacho : 52
Cycles running : 875
TIM duty : 2489
TIM val samp : 2
TIM current samp : 4200
TIM top : 8400
Comm step : 0
Temperature : 20.67

Current : 141.4
Current filtered : 119.0
Voltage : 36.22
Duty : 0.166
RPM : 5377.1
Tacho : 18688
Cycles running : 948
TIM duty : 1395
TIM val samp : 2
TIM current samp : 4200
TIM top : 8400
Comm step : 0
Temperature : 21.98

Current : 145.5
Current filtered : 117.6
Voltage : 36.14
Duty : 0.173
RPM : 5375.8
Tacho : 22264
Cycles running : 1018
TIM duty : 1452
TIM val samp : 2
TIM current samp : 4200
TIM top : 8400
Comm step : 0
Temperature : 22.35

And I can seem to trigger them consistently by going full throttle from standstill, which makes the motor make a clunk noise as if it had a loose magnet or something inside, and then the vesc will restart quickly (the motor stops spinning slowly, unless I pull the trigger again, so I assume the fault gets triggered, and vesc shuts down, and back up in half a second to recover).

I would open the motor up, but the pulley on it is stuck, and I have another mount and pulley anyway, so don’t feel like bothering if you guys have had this experience in the past and could confirm that a loose magnet could trigger an over current fault.

Board settings/specs if needed:

single TB vesc
Maytech 6374 170kv motor
Motor limits: +60A -80A
Battery: +50A -24A
Over current protection: 130A (default value)
Running sensored FOC

It was not a lock up. It was an esc cut off since you hit over current value of 130 or above.

You can change this value to 150 max I believe.

Now as to why you hit this value with just 60 motor amps that’s another question. I guess it is just a spike from the sudden demand of amps and the esc isn’t fast enough to limit that.

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prepare for lots of reading my friend…no other way around it.


Abs over current faults are most often caused by a cold joint, or often a broken cap leg. I would search for that stuff before ripping the motor apart.


It’s obvious! You’re missing an air vent


Alright guys what are the best Esk8 Slide wheels???

Been dicking around sliding on my normal board for awhile now and wanna try it with esk8.


Not the best slide lol

Mabye the venoms? Speed vents? 80mm kegels? Or the 76mm kegel core wheels I forgot the name too.

The regular orange levels are really good for sliding

I’ve heard the evolve stoneground wheels are really nice eboard slide wheels

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Yeah, but evolve charges a shit ton

100$ for the stone ground

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I was thinking these?

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In turns of sliding on a push board you want harder rounded lipped wheels. Most esk8 wheels are squared edges. You could probably lathe them to a rounded edge and then the 83 kegels should go nicely

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