Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

I’ve got a 10ah lipo setup with a recommended charge rate of 1c so this charger would only be 0.5c. That’s ok right?

honestly I don’t know much about your board or your configuration to pass an intelligent opinion…

Does your board have a BMS?
Is it easy to get to your lipo to charge?
How are your lipos configured?

If so there are much better options to charge a LIPO

It has a smart BMS connected to the lipos, there are four 5s 5000mah packs wired two in series and two in parallel to make a 10s 10ah pack. Right now I am just using a 42v 2a charger and it’s quite slow because I don’t believe it’s really 2a output.

This is perfectly fine, no idea if the charger is any good.

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Can I remove the momentary switch from fsesc 6.6?
(will replace with loop key)
Can I just unplug it? Or do I need to short the wires so that it is permanently on?

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@Gamer43 seems to have the solution to this.

Anyone got experience with a simpler way?

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i probably will soon have to use dareno’s idler hack,
in theory - is it prefered for idlers to be small or large in diameter ?

leaving this here incase anyone is looking for the info:

tldr: idler should be atleast 1,25 times the diameter of motor pulley

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Has anyone ever made the spring on a gt2b a bit better? Would really love a tighter spring on mine

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Nano remote or Mini remote???

The nano is obviously smaller, has a built in screen and a better instead of AA batteries on the mini.
Any other difference in behavior or quality you experienced?

Hey guys! Am feeling really hesitant about building a board. Have seen videos of guys being thrown from theirs. I have heard this could be caused by connection issues to a remote. Is this something easily avoided? Are there other issues that could throw a rider from their board that could be easily remedied?

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Well of course there is 1000 scenarios… The most obvious one is riding too fast :slight_smile:
I’m currently waiting for my parts to arrive - I don’t think you should go over 30kmh as an absolute beginner.
But on the technical side there’s only the remote that I can think of… Maybe the belt gets stuck or something because of a small rock etc. But that is unavoidable and can happen to you without an esk8 too.
So pretty much the biggest problem is the person riding the board in most cases :slight_smile:
Just go with a 2,4GHz remote, not a 400 something MHz one, don’t experiment with Chinese sellers like AliExpress too much if you’re looking for 100% safety. That’s all I can think of as of now. :slight_smile:

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The nano doesn’t have a screen. Its just a shiny part of the plastic.

It depends on what kind of remote you like. Thumbwheel or trigger. I used the nano for a while and liked it, i now have a mini coming to try new things.

I don’t know if the mini has the same “issue” but you have to calibrate your nano remote EVERY time you turn it off.

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What’s “better” in your opinion the torqueboard 6374 190kv motor or the maytech unsealed 6374 190kv

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Why do you need / What is

Minimum battery current? Why is it always a negative value? I thought of electricity as 0V (GND) and a positive voltage…

Better is a vague word… If it is about price. Well you have to choose yourself, the Maytech may be cheaper, but i don’t know if it will last you long (though I only heared good things about maytech motors). For better quality I would always buy in western countries as a general rule.

I personally would stick to the maytech. But that’s because im on tight budgets, if you have the money, go safe with a TB one :slight_smile:

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PS: I’m still kind of new to this topic so better get a second opinion on that from someone who has more experience than me!

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Good you warned me about that!
Why is there a plastic polished thing when it is exactly the size of the common oled displays…
Oof
What’s the cheapest OLED display remote you know?

@wisskt if you don’t want these things to happen then the best advice is not to go cheap on parts. Main issues mainly come from hardware, either because it is cheap or sometimes because of new firmware on smarter ESC like the Unity. those all get fixed very quickly though and obviously if you don’t want to be the first trying new firmware you don’t have to, a lot of people stay on much younger/reliable versions.

The biggest tip is to get a quality VESC like a unity/focbox/VESC6/ and some others that are being tested. forget flipsky, they are called flipshit for a reason, unless you buy some of their much pricier focer esc’s.
Then get good motors and a good battery. i think when you want to build a ‘‘problem-free board’’ the best you can do is go overkill then what you need.

Many people might disagree but if you don’t have a budget of at least 1400euro then don’t go into DIY, just buy a prebuilt. especially if you are not experienced or don’t what to do maintenance.

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can anyone point me in the direct of a thread where people have listed their setups and setting or does it not exist

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Vesc settings?