3D Printing Discussions, Questions and Debugging

Ok so hatchbox petg, two layers gap and one dense layer on supports, printing at .24 layer height, fan on for bridging layers. 100% flow 50% speed for bridging, the supports came off pretty well, and it’s a usable piece, but how can i make it better? It still looks like messy spaghetti under.


These lines turned out great, but the rest is a mess.

Is the bottom part flat like how you have it oriented in your pics? Maybe print it flat on that side with only supports under the 5 parts sticking into the middle?

Otherwise you’ll have to tighten up the Z gap distance if you want it to look better. On 0.2 layers I usually do 0.24 gap.

No it’s the same on both sides, it has to be printed on supports with bridging, I am trying to avoid splitting it in half to print flat, and I’d also like to get the printing dialed in a bit more in general. The inside of my gt2b mod case turned out pretty good but this one needs work. If I close the z gap then I struggle to remove the supports and that makes a mess of its own with little stuck strands etc.

If it’s that hard to remove the supports with a closer Z distance it could be something else like a bit of overextrusion/flow. What machine are you printing these on?

I don’t think it’s over extrusion, I still have some small gaps here and there, and no blobs, the gapes on the print make me think I’m still under extruding slightly.

The printer is an old ender 3 with a big tree tech board, 400x400 bed, bmg direct drive with dual cooling 5015 blowers, triangle labs dragon hot end , bl touch

Well guys, I blew the front out of my enclosure. Hit the brakes too hard, board flew out from under me and slammed a curb. The print didn’t split on layer lines but carbon fiber PETG does not seem to be the move.

Can anyone recommend a good impact resistant filament? I’m thinking ductility would be better than rigidity for an enclosure. Considering Polymax PETG, PCTG, or maybe a nylon. Not looking to spend CF-PA prices if I can avoid it and can’t anneal prints yet.

Yeah it is. I’ve found PLA+ to be more durable than PETG on my enclosure prints. CFPETG is pretty brittle. PCTG might be a decent option but I have limited experience with it. The only real issue with PLA+ is deflection from heat

You can technically anneal prints in your printer by turning on the bed, works best with enclosed printers ofc.

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There are some 98A TPU filaments on Amazon that are very rigid when you give it a lot of infill and geometry. I believe it’s called ranki TPU

I use it for my mud guards and they are practically indestructible

CC @Yeahthatperson

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I love me some PLA+ but I worry about using it on the board. Black prints get HOT here in Texas and IMO a board should be able to handle a half hour cooking in the sun. obv that’s not great for batteries but different argument.

PCTG looks promising.

How much flex is there compared to a something like nylon? Would 4-5mm thickness keep the flex to a minimum?

Ya if you’re in TX that is 100% a no-go lol

The ranki tpu idea is pretty good

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Yeah, 5mm and solid walls should be very stiff.

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Thanks a ton, I’m going to order a roll.

Hoping to use some of these hammer in threaded inserts if they don’t strip out the plastic when I’m tightening bolts down. Just going to have to print and see.

Ok so another tweak, another print, and we’re doing better, I realized that the straight lines inside the remote and the straightish lines on the wheel widener printed nicely but while watching the print swirl around holes and wall shapes the filament was getting pulled around by the hot end, so I slowed it down even more on the bridging and infill skin layer, and I lowered the number of walls so that the infill was more of a linear pattern instead of circular/wavy etc.

Here is the results.

I also bumped the flow up slightly and see less holes in the top layer.

Still looking for more tips if you have any

at this point I’m wondering if thinner wall settings would get me a more solid surface on the layer above the support, that layer looks very under extruded due to not being squished against the layer below.




Yeah RANKI shit is amazing!!

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What kind of fan speeds and overhangs can I get away with from this stuff? I’ll print a couple temp towers for my own learning but you’ve clearly got your shit tuned!

Don’t give me too much credit :rofl: I’m a member at a hacker/makerspace. It’s cool, through the space, I host community build days :grin:

The space has several printers, and 3 prusa mk3’s. I printed these on an mk3 with a textured bed, I just went with the middle of suggested temp, I think I did 210c first layer, 200c the rest. I think 50c bed

This filament is amazing

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https://a.co/d/gAywYMj

Here’s a cheap PCTG. I ended up ordering a second roll. I used it for hubs in August on the prototipo. I use the board daily to walk the dog.

The Amazon linked pctg has a decent blend of properties. And the hubs at 25psi have been fine.

TPU is a good idea too. Carbon fiber infill will not help layer line adhesion, probably even hurts it.

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edit fail. sorry

There is a limit in case you were wondering. The walls don’t expand much past here.

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Is it safe to have the tire floating on the hub not resting against the lip?