3D printable Tanuki Hubs | Files for sale!

Hey people and persons! :raccoon:

I’ve been working on 3D printable hubs for a while now. I have created several sets and will be selling those files for you to print yourself. All these designs are tested and work very well. The files have built in tolerances for bearing seats (press fit) and all other critical measurements. This has been verified in test prints by other members of this community. (Thanks @Lionpuncher :slight_smile: )

These hubs will fit tires from MBS, Trampa, Evolve, excluding Bergs. Pulleys for Trampa will (mostly) work natively. I offer 3D-printable pulleys, if you don’t have Trampa ones and/or don’t want to give them your money. They are included at no extra cost if you need them. If you have a more exotic spacing, message me and we will work something out.


:dollar: Pricing:
All hub files will cost 6,50€, if you need custom spacing or other fancy stuff thats 12,50€ per file (paypal fees included). If you want a custom hub or you found some rims you like and want to be recreated, send me some pics and we’ll see what we can do. :smiley: All proceedings from this will go towards my ongoing developement on carbon fiber hubs.

:moneybag: How to buy: Send a message to @Tanuki (me), and I will reply with the files after you paid via paypal.
Paypal link: paypal.me/jacksbase
:bangbang: PLEASE include notes on what hub(s) you have bought, which version of it, your axle size, if you need a pulley, what material you will be printing in and your forum nickname :arrow_right: (for example: Y-Type wide / 66T pulley / 10mm axles / PETG / @YourUserName) :arrow_left: . If you want custom stuff, please message me BEFORE you buy something. :bangbang:


Hubs for sale:

Y-Type:

:raccoon:

Detailed information:

Versions: wide (60mm), medium (47mm)
Face-to-face bearing distance: wide 31mm, medium 26mm

Hardware needed (per wheel):
5x M4 25mm socket head screw
5x M4 lock nut (for non-driven wheels)
OR 5x M4 ≥12mm Hex spacer (for driven wheels)
5x M4 washer
2x 6001 bearing (12mm axle)
OR 2x 16100 bearing (10mm axle)
OR 2x 638 bearing (8mm axle)
OR 2x R6 bearing (3/8 axle)

Printed:


This is an example picture, yours might look very different depending on you printer settings and filament!

Assembly instructions: press bearings into hub halfes, install tube into tire, slide valve through hole in front hub-half, slide front hub-half into tire, pull valve-side front hub-half slightly backwards, slide front hub-half fully into tire, slide screws through holes, put spacer in empty space between the bearings, install back hub-half onto screws, put washers onto screws, screw lock nuts (or hex spacers) onto screws, inflate tire with periodic stops to seat tire evenly onto hub.


R-Type:

:raccoon:

Detailed information:

Versions: wide (60mm), medium (47mm)
Face-to-face bearing distance: wide 31mm, medium 26mm

Hardware needed (per wheel):
5x M4 25mm socket head screw
5x M4 lock nut (for non-driven wheels)
OR 5x M4 ≥12mm Hex spacer (for driven wheels)
5x M4 washer
2x 6001 bearing (12mm axle)
OR 2x 16100 bearing (10mm axle)
OR 2x 638 bearing (8mm axle)

Printed:


This is an example picture, yours might look very different depending on you printer settings and filament!

Assembly instructions: press bearings into hub halfes, install tube into tire, slide valve through hole in front hub-half, slide front hub-half into tire, pull valve-side front hub-half slightly backwards, slide front hub-half fully into tire, slide screws through holes, put spacer in empty space between the bearings, install back hub-half onto screws, put washers onto screws, screw lock nuts (or hex spacers) onto screws, inflate tire with periodic stops to seat tire evenly onto hub.


V-Type:


:raccoon:

Detailed information:

Versions: wide (60mm), medium (47mm)
Face-to-face bearing distance: wide 31mm, medium 26mm

:warning: These wheels have non standard mounting points, so you’ll NEED my pulleys to drive them! :warning:

Hardware needed (per wheel):
6x M4 25mm socket head screw
6x M4 lock nut (for non-driven wheels)
OR 6x M4 ≥12mm Hex spacer (for driven wheels)
1x pulley size of your choice for driven wheels
12x M4 washer
2x 6001 bearing (12mm axle)
OR 2x 16100 bearing (10mm axle)
OR 2x 638 bearing (8mm axle)

Printed:


This is an example picture, yours might look very different depending on you printer settings and filament!

Assembly instructions: press bearings into hub halfes, install tube into tire, slide valve through hole in front hub-half, slide front hub-half into tire, pull valve-side front hub-half slightly backwards, slide front hub-half fully into tire, put washers on screws, slide screws through holes, put spacer in empty space between the bearings, install back hub-half onto screws, put washers onto screws, screw lock nuts (or hex spacers) onto screws, inflate tire with periodic stops to seat tire evenly onto hub.


S-Type:


:raccoon:

Detailed information:

Versions: wide (60mm), medium (47mm)
Face-to-face bearing distance: wide 31mm, medium 26mm

Hardware needed (per wheel):
5x M4 25mm socket head screw (medium version)
OR 5x M4 30mm socket head screw (wide version)
5x M4 lock nut (for non-driven wheels)
OR 5x M4 ≥12mm Hex spacer (for driven wheels)
5x M4 washer
2x 6001 bearing (12mm axle)
OR 2x 16100 bearing (10mm axle)
OR 2x 638 bearing (8mm axle)

Assembly instructions: press bearings into hub halfes, install tube into tire, slide valve through hole in front hub-half, slide front hub-half into tire, pull valve-side front hub-half slightly backwards, slide front hub-half fully into tire, put washers on screws, slide screws through holes, put spacer in empty space between the bearings, install back hub-half onto screws, put washers onto screws, screw lock nuts (or hex spacers) onto screws, inflate tire with periodic stops to seat tire evenly onto hub.


JE-Type:

:raccoon:

Detailed information:

Versions: ultra wide (77mm)
Face-to-face bearing distance: 31mm

Hardware needed (per wheel):
10x M3 8mm socket head screw
10x M3 6mm heat-set insert
13x M4 80mm socket head screw
5x M4 40mm socket head screw
18x M4 lock nut (for non-driven wheels)
OR 13x M4 lock nut + 5x M4 ≥12mm Hex spacer (for driven wheels)
5x M4 washer
2x 6001 bearing (12mm axle)
OR 2x 16100 bearing (10mm axle)
OR 2x 638 bearing (8mm axle)

Assembly instructions: press bearings into hub halfes, melt inserts into front hub half, install tube into tire, slide valve through hole in front hub-half, slide front hub-half into tire, pull valve-side front hub-half slightly backwards, slide front hub-half fully into tire, put washers on screws, slide screws through holes, put spacer in empty space between the bearings, install back hub-half onto screws, put washers onto screws, screw lock nuts (or hex spacers) onto screws, install front flange with long onto front hub half, inflate tire with periodic stops to seat tire evenly onto hub, screw hub cap onto hub.


Pulley sizes available:

78T, 72T, 66T, 62T, 56T


Print recommendations

I recommend to print the hubs (and pulleys) in PETG with a 0.4mm nozzle (0.6mm works too, but you loose some fidelity and the text), a 0.2 or 0.3mm layer height on :bangbang:100% infill:bangbang: with automatic support generation in the following orientation:

If you want to use PLA, don’t use black colored filament, as it could soften in hot weather. DO NOT use matte filament, filaments with weak layer adhesion or filament with a lot of additives (for example Bamboo PLA), as this may pop off the rim flange due weak layer adhesion. I strongly recommend the use of PETG, as it is more impact resistant than PLA. Furthermore I suggest painting the hubs, as this increases UV resistance.

All recommendations are optional, you can print these however you like. However, if you ignore my recommendations you are in unknown territory and on your own.


Attention, please read!

:warning: I will take absolutely no resposibility if a hub unexpectedly breaks and you streetface!! I have tested them thoroughly, but I have no control over your filament, your printer and your skills on how to use it.
:warning: Do not use the medium sized hubs for tires over 160mm (6.3in) unless you have really good layer adhesion. It’ll create a lot of excess force on the sidewalls of the flange and maybe even pop it off. Use the wide versions for bigger tires.
:warning: I test all my prototypes with a working pressure of 3bar (45PSI). Although the hubs can withstand tested static pressure of up to 7bar (100PSI), higher working pressures may still result in failure.
:warning: As with all pneumatic wheels, these need to be balanced. Otherwise you will experience vibrations and wobbling!


You are free to use and modify the .stl files you receive however you like, but please don’t share them, as this is my intellectual property and it would really undermine all further efforts because I intend to further upgrade and expand this collection of hubs in the future.

If you don’t have a printer, you’ll find lots of people on here who might be so kind to print something for you. :slight_smile: Or just ask a friend! If you want to test the hubs in more extreme circumstances, for example heavy offroading or high jumps please share you findings, as those are some use cases I can’t test. Thanks! :slight_smile:

21 Likes

Cool idea! Nice designs, I may buy a set to print out for my bkb tires instead of designing my own

3 Likes

Thanks! Yeah It saves a lot of time having someone else do the prototyping for you… :smiley:

Just a few, I’m currently driving two other sets and I also recycled quite a lot… :upside_down_face:

3 Likes

Lol I mean I’ve already designed my own set of hubs, just a different size

Lmao why did you have to print so many sizes!

3 Likes

I was making sure that everything works like it should be, after all I won’t be the one printing them. :slight_smile: The first iterations for example had a lot of problems because the bearing seat was to short, creating a lot of radial stress.

3 Likes

Hm interesting

On my design my main issue happened when I jumped, the tire bottomed out, and broke the lip on one rim - I thickened it a bit but this was with plain PLA too, not even PLA+

I think 3Dp rims are a great super low budget option

5 Likes

I think so too!

That’s why my recommendation is to print in PETG, it’s a lot better in impact resistance compared to PLA.

5 Likes

Yah probably a good option. Since they were prototypes and I had extra PLA laying around I didn’t bother

Still need to test them with proper materials

Nylon seems like a good option too besides its hygroscopic properties

3 Likes

good luck. :slight_smile: I think I will add more designs in the next few days, just gotta earn my level two so I can edit my posts… :sweat_smile:

3 Likes

I guess its worth mentioning I printed mine at like 40% infill and 0.28 layer height haha

100% infill would be much stronger - what does the filament utilization come out to on each of these? around 200g each or so/

1 Like

Depends on the version, the wide Y-Type sits at around 190g.

There isn’t much benefit strength wise under 100%, perimeter settings are much more important. For example, if you print with 4 perimeters you can set the infill to 5% and there is no difference to the mechanical properties compared to lets say 50%. That only changes at around 100%.

2 Likes

Yeah that makes sense - I did either 4 or 5 perimeters so they were pretty dang strong - just couldn’t take the impact

3 Likes

Yep, sounds just like PLA: :smiley:

2 Likes

The Y-type drawing looks great. PM’d!

2 Likes

Thanks! :smiley:

2 Likes

These look awesome wish my 3D printing skills didn’t suck so bad :laughing:

4 Likes

This is your chance to train them :smiley: You can always try again.

2 Likes

Or ask soemone who does not suck. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

1 Like

,would these be okay in PLA+ or should I get some nylon?

2 Likes

PLA+ works fine, I’d just be careful with hitting curbs and stuff. PETG would be the preferred choice. Nylon is a bit overkill for these designs, and printing nylon is quite the pain without a dry dispenser. But is certainly possible!

5 Likes